Fuck, forgot to grab the newer OP, remembered it as I was filling in the subject and then just forgot.

That picture makes me feel like buying a a 3d printer was a mistake.

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How would you guys make the connection for the platform in this? The height of the platform is adjustable and can be locked in place. There seem to be some metal fixtures on the corners in this pic but I don’t know what kind

>>2980606
finally, thank you for at least trying op
>>2980646
probably recalled by now

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>>2980646
like this

what are you guys getting 4/4 white oak for in your area? trying to figure out if $6.25/bdft is a deal or not

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the most attrocious butt joinery this side of the mississippi

>>2980725
there is literally nothing wrong with this pile of firewood, anon

>>2980646
Pegs are fine if fixed heights are what you want, T-Track if you want it to be freely adjustable.

>>2980725
Caulk and paint next time, friend.

>>2980725
ogee == sovl

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>>2980738
lmao yes let's put a baby crib on rockler's finest

>>2980740
if you're painting furniture you already know: got fucked

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wife got tired of me laying my clothes out on the floor at night. pretty happy with it, maple clothespins made in oregon to boot

>>2980759
Cabinets get painted in most cases. Staining construction lumber with minimal prep and exposed fasteners is for Etsy.

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did i fuck up this stain?
this is my second project and first time staining

>>2980772
Looks good to me.

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>>2980758
>Regularly used to assemble heavy duty work tables
>Thinks it'll be an issue to have a 10-50lbs child on it

>>2980778
what's your review on extrusion so far?

>>2980801
It's not my setup, but I was planning to use it as the core frame of a dropped surface gaming table, maybe even put a cheap TV inside under a sheet of polycarb with a cheap NUC so it can put up maps and so on for whoever's DMing.

That said, it's a great resource for building shop furniture, since most sources will let you buy every pre-planned piece pre-cut to exact lengths and just charge you materials, with only a bit extra for stuff like rounding off and refinishing the ends.

>>2980805
of course, why would someone post something they made here. was looking for real world feedback

>>2980801
My company builds industrial stuff from extrusion, it’s expensive but reliable and fast to build, but you’ll want a big store lot of tools and parts most people don’t have lying around (abrasive saw, rings, caps, nuts rings, corners, bolts…). If you use it for the entire shop it may be worth the storage and money investment but for just a few tables it’s relatively very expensive.

In the setup shown those slots will fill up with sawdust in no time and after the first spill of lubricant oil it turns to sticky mess you can’t vacuum out.

>>2980772
the branch looks good
the bird, i feel like the stain pooled too much at those corners where the feathers "overlap", but that's just me.

>>2980801
you are in the ww thread and want to build shop furniture with flimsy extrusion? lol

>>2980868
>flimsy
>Stuff strong enough for building industrial fabrication lines

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>>2980870
you have no idea what you are talking about
building not wobbly piece of shits out of these requires additional expensive hardware and bracing. Its really not much different to stick framing
>Stuff strong enough for building industrial fabrication lines
and you have that reversed. its fabrication lines not structurally demanding enough to require steels and machined cast aluminium plates, shit like modular assembly stations (glorified table)
>>2980778
the flimsy part is everything being butt jointed with a single m6 screw in weak aluminium, and the head sitting on a hollow structure

>>2980810
thanks, the sawdust issue makes perfect sense and i can see where that'd be impractical. as far as squareness goes, e.g. for a slab jig, is there anything to worry about?
>>2980846
was curious, i haven't seen a lot of big aluminum builds like that. seems the standard 2x4s are better in a bench implementation

>>2980763
i'll take stain + minwax's finest polyslop over paint any day, thank you

>>2980846
my bad, >>2980875 was meant for >>2980868

>>2980875
>seems the standard 2x4s are better in a bench implementation
easier to work with and an order of magnitude ceaper

>>2980888
i could see in a jig where warping would be a negative, though plywood could just as easily satisfy that requirement. so it is a maymay then

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>>2980892
i honstely have no idea why all these router sleds rely on extrusions instead of plain angle iron. being able to weld stuff is together is a huge boon.
pic should give you an idea why plain butt joints with a screw like in ops pic are not eactly great, they also dont prevent the extrusions from rotating

bought a handheld rotary saw yesterday and cut a few things. honestly my first real woodworking power tool, feels pretty nice.

>>2980894
i've seen both styles, i think there's a lot of misconceptions about extrusion; it "looks" easier but yeah when you actually spec everything out it's expensive as fuck and any racking is going to be a no-go

>>2980895
if it came with a guard it better be in the trash

>>2980898
you mean the swiveling thing that goes over the blade? yeah it has that

>>2980898
>t. 6-finger joe

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>>2980962
only need a select three

>>2980846
>i feel like the stain pooled too much at those corners where the feathers "overlap", but that's just me.
same, have a feeling I waited too long before wiping the excess, used too much, or didn't stir the can well enough beforehand
i used minwax dark walnut + wood conditioner on poplar
still like how it turned out, except for accidentally breaking the branch when I was peeling it off the wasteboard. at least it was easily fixable

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>>2980875
You can go as stiff as you like with corner plates like >>2980871 or pic rel or cross brace it with V plates.

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these seem pretty cool for holding stuff while sanding. price sucks though even on sale

>>2980994
It makes sense for full time tilers with lots of repetitive motion. I want as much confidence as I can gather moving large pieces of glass, tile, stone.

>>2980980
anon, this is still infinitely better than i could ever hope to achieve, great job

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I laser cut this tray for my micrometers out of 5 layers of ~1/4" plywood. Now I need to glue it up but I'm a machinist, not a woodworker (I've got a bit of basic carpentry experience but not any kind of fine woodworking), any recommendations for glue to use and any relevant techniques?

>>2981036
Put sheet on top
Put sheet on bottom
Sand lightly at 180
Aliphatic resin is my fav for stuff like this (titebond original). Dries fast and you can remove any residue with damp cloth

>>2981036
any decent wood glue, like titebond or whatever. the procedure is usually
>slightly sand both surfaces and wipe clean
>smear glue on the whole surface
>put 2 elements together
>clamp tight with wood clamps
>wipe off excess
>leave overnight

in your case though you're better off with putting a fresh sheet of plywood on top and putting a few weights on top, because i can't see you clamping this shape in any reasonable way

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>>2981037
>Aliphatic resin
lmao
>>2981036
like everyone else said, any wood glue. if you wanna be cool laser in some holes for dowels to keep it aligned while the glue dries. turn off your air assist for engraves next time

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>>2981037
>>2981038
Gotcha, sounds like what I had in mind should work then. I'll get some regular titebond, I've only got the waterproof kind around and have had bad luck with staining over it.

I've got a sheet of 3/4 plywood that I use as a secondary workbench (on sawhorses) for outdoor/dirty stuff and I was thinking I might make a jig with a couple of 1x1s or something so I can align the stack, gotta figure out how to not glue the project to the jig though. For clamping I was thinking a sheet of something on top and then clamp onto that (I've got some of those Pony ratchet hand clamps that ought to be able to reach around far enough), but maybe weights would be easier.

>>2981040
Dowel holes would've been cool if I'd thought of it, but I can't get the parts back on the laser in time - this is for a laser+plasma cutting class that just wrapped up and I need to turn the finished project in on monday, along with pic related clock (which will get the same stain at the same time, along with some brass hardware). Good point on the air assist as well, would've done that if I'd thought of it but it was all done in one setup and turning the compressor on and off is a pain in the ass with the way it's set up at my school. (You have to crawl under a desk to get to the switch.)

>>2981042
wrap your cauls or whatever your using to align in plastic wrap or use wax paper and glue won't stick to them

>>2981046
Yeah, basically what I was thinking.

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Got it glued up, not perfect but more than good enough for government work. You'll notice the different grain, I'd actually engraved two top layers and the one in the previous pic cracked at the thinnest part (you'll notice it if you look close in the previous pic) so I made it a lower layer.

Now I just hope it actually fits in the toolbox where it needs to go, felt like it would when just holding the stack but it's close, the corner cuts are to allow it to angle into where it goes.

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Anyone here into timber framing?

>>2981086
i can join 2x4s with grk screws if that's what your asking

>>2981078
looks good i think the grain direction change between the bottom and top layers makes it pop better than that felt or whatever. what are you studying?

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>>2981105
The grain direction does look cool, but I think I need the felt in there to protect the sensitive tools that go inside it, plus my instructor really likes to see projects that use multiple materials. I think the felt will also protect the wood a bit from oils etc. on the tools as well.

I'm a machining major but my school goes out of its way to include extra related stuff like a bit of welding, a decent amount of CAD, 3D printing (which I also just took), and this "automated cutting" class where we worked with a plasma table and laser.

>>2981086
I've hewn several beams, and have made a timber framed arbor for my brother's wedding. Working on beams for a green house right now, though it has been on hold for winter.

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First coat of stain on, but as I feared the plywood isn't holding up with the grain direction that way, the top veneer is chipping every time I look at it funny. I think I'm gonna have to make another one of these out of solid wood, at least for the top layer. I wish I had access to a CNC router so I could just carve the whole thing out of a solid block.

>>2981169
Do you hew with a felling axe or a hewing specific axe? Also what kind of broad axe do you use?

Is anyone in here good at dovetails? I welcome machine or hand cut. I have enough issues doing one corner with the router jig. Trying to do four corners is a waste of my time.

>>2981243
OP pic is mine, weird seeing it after all these years. Dovetails are easier to cut by hand than with a router unless you need to do lots, don't even need to lay them out unless they are for show. Mark the depth of the tails with what ever, dividers to mark out spacing, cut them free hand and eyeball the angles. Mark the depth of your pins, if you have a rabbet/moving fillister plane use that for the depth and take one shaving on the inside the piece for the pins. Use the side with the tails to scribe the pins, if you did the pass with the rabbet/moving fillister this is easy as can be, just press it against that tiny lip it gave you. Scribe the tails to get the pins, cut the pins. Assemble.

Roy does an abbreviated version of it in https://www.pbs.org/video/the-woodwrights-shop-the-till-in-the-tool-chest/ but if memory serves he does not use a rabbet/moving fillister plane in this one. He has a few other episodes on dovetails and a few episodes which use them, watch them.

The dovetail is the most forgiving joint there is, it will do its job as long as things are close and if you don't get obsessed with perfection it is easy, and after you do a handful of functional but not perfect dovetails you will get to perfection in short order. Make some things which don't require perfection or where the joints will be hidden and no one will notice if they are not perfect, you will get there. Nothing wrong with slipping a plane shaving in there when you glue up to fill a gap, no one but you will know.

>>2981086
It's why I open this thread but it's always glue sniffers

>>2981265
I would prefer 5-10 boxes per day. Half blinds on the jig involves solving for depth, aligning things left and right, and constantly switching the jig and material orientation. This is compounded when it's four corners that need to wrap vs just two corners where I can waste the ends on the tablesaw.

After all of that there's a good chance the router chips out as I'm trying to work. I believe shops run dedicated dovetail machines or just use cnc.

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Got them done. Something went fucky with the finishing but at least they're workable products. Here's the mic tray in situ.

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>>2981299
And the clock, which will actually end up somewhere in the school building, I just hung it temporarily for the pic. Looks really good in person even with the iffy finishing, I think I may have done the second coat a little too early and some tiny bits of steel wool (used as directed on the can) got stuck in the first layer.

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I'd like to get into woodworking, but currently I don't have too much space so I thought I'd start out with some wood-carving until I got some more space towards the end of the year.
Anyone got some advice? Or some good youtube channels for wood carving?

>>2981237
I use a normal 4 lb felling axe, but on a 32 inch handle for roughing. Handle length is subjective though, but I find the shorter length is better for cutting the notches for juggling, otherwise you tend to hit your abs when trying to cut the upper part of the notch. It was just an old antique head. The important thing is to thin the cheeks well if it needs it, and to thin the handle since those mostly come too thick and rigid. The hewing axe I forged myself. It is in the medieval style, so relatively light for the broadness of the bit (~10"), as they are pretty skeletonized. This let's me be more accurate imo. But if you stay away from the 8lb heads you will likely be fine. Those were meant for busting out railroad ties back in the day. You don't need much broadness to do good work really, it is just slightly faster. I started out with a 4" hewing hatchet head. ~6" is probably good, or a little more. You can always move up as your get stronger and more skilled. Accuracy matters a lot, as well as some theory of how wood grain works.

is a knew concepts coping saw worth it? Seems nice for cutting box joints

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>>2981339

Pics of my axes. The one on the right is one I bought and carved a handle for, but I think I still like the one I forged, despite my lack of skill in forging. It is a type of hewing axe I recommend looking for on eBay though. I bought a 12" broad axe too, but it was much too big of a chungus to swing well at my current strength level. Remember, you have to hit accurately a lot to finish even one face.

>>2981339
>>2981392
I guess I should also say, get some chainmail socks/shin protection. It is expensive, but less so than an axe to the shin. Your hewing broadaxe should be kept very sharp, and the motion is inherently prone to glancing off on accident.

$2750, 1400 profit
What's your excuse wwg?
https://youtube.com/shorts/ewN5-qKAiLk

>>2981285
Lots of shops use routers for dovetails, they do the job and are easy to replace when something goes wrong with them. Chip out is solved by using a backing board.

If you are going to do 5 or 6 boxes a day all with the same dovetailing, router is a good way to go but it quickly becomes time consuming if you are going to be changing the dovetailing much. Hand cutting could be fine here as well, depends on the designs and materials. If you are going to be switching up your dovetailing between boxes, hand cutting has some serious advantages.
>>2981376
I find it slower than just chiseling it out in the first place but nice for some woods. I just use a homemade string tensioned frame saw, can put on plenty of tension and I find them more comfortable to use. Knew Concepts is mostly addressing faults in that particular style of coping saw which did not exist in the old wooden saws, the weight of the frame being so far from the handle. On the old fashioed wood style you grip the frame, the handle is just for adjusting the blade, you never have to fight the weight of the frame.
>>2981403
Dealing with customers is not worth the headache.

>>2981429
Make the pieces you want, then list them if you feel like it. "Commissioning a piece" is a stupid business model that hands over control to the customer. They're not the artist or a woodworker. Every inch of rope you lend to a customer, they will tie into a noose for you.

Just spent way too long building pair of Hickory replacement handles for wheelbarrow. Had to select a piece of wood that was only big enough for three pieces out of it lots of drama cutting it as my table size currently 110 volt, at least draw knife thing and sanding the handles went fine

>>2981506
Selling direct is the worst by far, you are dealing with average consumers with the consumer is always right mentality. Majority of people who do commissions have far more connection to reality and the ones that don't generally go to the big shops because they have the consumer mentality and big shops have lots of reviews. Studios/galleries (even the consignment sort) are better than selling direct and if you put in the effort to get your work into a good one you will probably make more money than selling direct.

>>2981624
Provide ten example studios and 10 wood working builds that are easier than $700 epoxy rectangle.

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>>2981506
>>2981624
should be an easy argument to resolve, both of you post a pic of your best-selling piece(s)

>>2981707
I'm busy arguing with a customer what left hand and right hand doors can and can not do. They want the door to swing the other way but the hinges to stay on the same side.

>>2981743
>>2980805
the pretend woodworker is immunized against all dangers: one may call him a scoundrel, parasite, swindler, profiteer, it all runs off him like water off a raincoat. but ask him to post an example of his endeavors and you will be astonished at how he recoils, how injured he is, how he suddenly shrinks back: "i've been found out"

>>2981754
I'm a pro. I circumvent honest woodworking with a number of auxiliary skills. My flexing isn't fair, being neither diy nor true woodcraft.

>>2981707
>best-selling piece(s)
You think I am a factory or something? closest I came to mass production was making 16 matching dining chairs.

>>2981860
may we see them?

i bought a few raw oak boards, like with the bark and all still on them, to get some experience in working wood
and i immediatelly got cold feet. i'm gonna have to stop watching all those videos and actually try and do something and i feel like i'm gonna fuck everything up and waste all that money i spent on some tools and wood and the time i spent setting the working area up
thanks for reading my blog

>>2981988
if you're that worried go buy some cheap wood to pop your cherry

>>2982093
amen brother, but it's not polite to beg

>>2982085
i already built basic stuff with cheap pine wood, i even did my own kitchen with preformatted melamine, it's just now i'll be building jigs, finishing real wood and trying to actually make appealing things and not just "yeah it stands upright and only sags a little, mission accomplished"
anyway i'm shitting up the thread so i'll shut up and report later with actual woodworking

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Quite new to woodworking, made this cabinet.
Will be using it to evaporate sea water, harvesting the salt.
Curious how it will work

gf wants me to remove the stain on some old storebought chairs, problem is, I'm an apartmentfag. A scraper got through the varnish no problem, but the stain is really deep in the wood. How miserable is using a random orbital sander with no dust collection on a balcony?

You guys are serious talented. All I want to make is a butcher's block and some wooden utensils KEK

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>>2982122
kek I thought you were making one of those display cases from Skyrim until I read the description

>>2982142
that's the 4chan post survivorship bias anon
>>2982124
depending on the wind and the weather, pretty sweet to extremely miserable. wear a mask so you don't get cancer

>>2981872
That was 20 years ago, if I still have the photographs they are buried in a box in the attic.

are plunge routers supposed to be "difficult" to actually plunge? i bought one to practice and maybe get some stuff done, but to move it down i have to press on it very firmly and it doesn't slide down smoothly, so actually moving into wood feel sketchy as fuck

also, how can i move the router bit an exact distance down? nevermind the stiff action, i have this stop block on it, but it's graded every 3mm, what if i want to go down 10mm? is there some sort of trick?

>>2982254
There's no depth stop? I would assume most are going to run at full depth. I don't think it will lock into partial settings the way a miter saw stops at zero, 45, 22.5.

>>2982262
you mean the vertical bar that you can lock and the rotating thing(stop block?) ? yeah it has those, but it's every 3mm. what if i want to route 5mm down? it's either 3 or 6.

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>>2982265
With the motor off, push down to set the bit at the surface, put a 5mm object (setup blocks are handy here, you can also use a workpiece item if you're insetting it) between the depth stop bar and the turret and lower the bar until it pinches, then lock it down. Use two-three steps and make multiple passes if the bar is sitting higher than each step on the turret.

If you've released the lock arm and it's still really hard to plunge, you might need to get it serviced.

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>>2982289

>>2982254
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ox5BD3B77oA

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>>2982289
>>2982290
>>2982291
thanks anons, i more or less understand now
i'm honestly pretty hyped, i test drove it yesterday and it looks like a pretty fucking fun tool, i'm looking forward to learning. took a piece of scrap softwood plank and tried carving stuff out, it's honestly much more stable than i thought it would be.

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>>2982349
If you plunge straight down, you need a bit that cuts in the center and not just the perimeter. Picrel is the most common type, as you can see there's no teeth in the center. If you plunge straight down, you'll bump again the center "plug" of uncunt wood.
You can plunge slow and wiggle the router side to side until you hit your depth, or get a center-cutting bit.

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I bought some more sandpaper and had to resort it to fit it into my shelf, so I figured I might as well make le epic funnee meme out of it.
>I'm gonna saaaaaaaaaaaaaaand!

>>2982785
pretty funny ano
>festool
fuck outta here richfag

>>2982785
>40 grit
crashin out

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>put wood in miter box
>put saw in 45 degree slot
>saw
>mfw it's all wonky

>>2982790
>richfag
Not really. If you buy the big (25-100pc, depending on grit) boxes, Festool (or mirka, for that matter) is much cheaper per piece than buying singles or 5-packs of shitty ass no-name paper from the big box store. Only issue is Festools proprietary hole pattern, but their mesh is just, well, mesh and their delta paper don’t match Bosch et als holes but you can simply drill the Festool pattern into a cheap Bosch replacement head for dust extraction.
>>2982842
Yeah baby! Going coarse!

>spend six hours in the shed
>one (1) piece of wood flattened

learning is hard

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>>2982907
>spend an hour measuring shit
>mfw realize I based all measurements on a face that isn't square
I'll never learn

>>2982907
Learning to use hand planes are pretty much the same as learning to ride a bike, you fail a bunch and then suddenly you get it and progress quickly once you learn not to think about it. How the plane move across the board and how the shavings come out of the plane will tell you everything you need to know once you learn to not think about it and you won't have to constantly stop and check your progress.

One of the common beginner mistakes is always planing with the grain and taking full length passes. If you have any prominent high spots, take them down going perpendicular to the grain then go 30-45 degrees off the grain, then the opposite 30 or 45, repeat until nearing thickness and/or flat, then with the grain to finish. When learning it can help to do a few full length passes between each of those stages, don't worry about getting things smooth, just a single pass across the width so you can see where it is still high and see how the angled passes affected things. Once you develop the feel for working perpendicular and at angles to the grain you can make short work of things, there is less resistance the more off the grain you go so you can take a bigger bite, especially for those perpendicular passes just knocking down the high spots, but when learning it is good to stick with the fine cut, mistakes stay small and it give you more time to learn the process, you can do that quick full length pass between steps to see the progress and faults in your technique while you still have time to correct them.
>>2982909
Not a problem if they were all based off that same face, everything will work.

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I want to do some handtools-only woodworking in my rentcuck apartment. I have a roughly 150x50cm (60x20") space available, picrel. Would this suck donkey dick or is it actually workable? Can I do anything to limit (for example) hammering sounds from traveling to my downstairs neighbor?

I was thinking of building something like the thing at the bottom of the image, but without the trench and putting the legs on the corners to allow for more storage space.

I don't have any experience and I'm retarded so I can't tell if this is a retarded idea.

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>>2982990
Maybe I could also add a little back wall to hang some tools on and protect the wall with?

>>2982990
seems fine to me, fuck your neighbor

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>>2982990
Poly urethane mallet will decrease the noise a fair amount and are surprisingly nice, easy on the chisel handle and transmit more of the force into the chisel instead of bouncing. Bought one of picrel for $2 at a rummage sale thinking it would be great for assembly, ended up using it for everything and bought one of the small ones as well.
>>2982992
Backs for hanging stuff suck, everything on it will bounce and things will fall when you start banging. If you want that sort of storage, hang it on the wall, don't attach it to the bench. Tool troughs are quite nice, gives you a place to put tools and work out of the way while keeping things in easy reach.

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>>2982993
>fuck your neighbor
I wish I was sigma like that

>>2982995
>Backs for hanging stuff suck
Good point. Maybe I'll just not hang anything and only use it to protect the wall and fix lighting to it so I can watch myself fuck up my projects and fingers in 4K HDR. I can't put stuff on the wall because I'm a rent cuck.

>poly mallet to reduce noise
Intredasting, I will remember that.

>>2982990
Looks good. Personally, I like having a tool well. I think that pic related has plenty of storage as in under the bench. I would consider making the bench longer by around two feet if you can afford the space. It isn't just about the longest thing you possibly would need to plane, but having room to work while being able to leave tools, parts, etc in easy reach while you're working on it. For example, as you're planing, you can leave your plane there on the table and use your straightedge/square, winding sticks to check your work. Having a tool well and a slightly larger bench top is useful for this. You don't want to get a thing out of the drawer or off a hook repeatedly in cases like that.

>>2983006
I'm really short on space so I'm even considering not putting in the tail vise. Also wouldn't the tool well be really annoying considering the bench is only 20" deep? Maybe I'll add a tool well if I can ever find another place with more space.

>>2983017
20" is plenty to have a tool well, most of the time you are working on the front ~8" of the bench even when your work is wider than that. Have a few scraps of the same thickness as the well's depth for those rare times you actually need to do heavy work on the back half of the bench. I would gave a 20" bench an 8" well with 2" behind it.

Wells are most useful on smaller benches, things are always getting in the way and knocked off on small benches, a well makes this much less of an issue.

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>>2983019
I'll have another think about it later. I'm also not sure if I should add more drawers in the empty space directly below the bench top so that'll keep my thinking brain busy for another 144 hours or so I reckon.

>>2983020
Personally, I hate drawers in work benches, they collect sawdust and you hear stuff rattle everytime you whack the chisel. I go with making a few toolboxes to fill the space, they seal better than drawers and you can pull them out from under the bench and everything is already portable for those times you are going to go help out a friend, etc. But some like drawers.

Also, if you go with the well, skip the ramps at the ends, nice for sweeping the dust out but you are just going to suck it out with a vacuum in an apartment, unless you want to fling dust all over your apartment. Also nice to have the well not go full length, have it a foot or so short on one end so you get full depth there, most of the time we need the depth we only need it at an end, the rest of the time we need it the work can just bridge over the well and rest on that 2" behind it.

>>2982948
>Learning to use hand planes are pretty much the same as learning to ride a bike
thanks, but i used a router sled in the end. that was what i wanted to do at the beggining, however i thought "i have these piece of shit planes lying around, are those any good?", and turns out they weren't, and also i have no idea how to use them properly. i basically gouged the wood and the plane boounced a lot.
i'd like to buy a proper flattening plane and train, but they're expensive, so i'll wait for a sucker to sell one online close to my place.
>>2982990
i'm practicing in a 4x3 meter shed right now with shit inside i can't move. it's doable anon, but don't expect cabinet-making ability.

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i tried making a bow tie as practice, used a piece of oak and picrel is the result. i think my chisel is relatively sharp, not like super folded milion times sharp, but sharp enough. if i go "with grain" i get small bitts falliing off. if i go from the top i basically either not grap the wood at all (the chisel slides on the surface), or i get particles fallig off or i tear out larger chunks on accident. thiss is with pushing by hand, using a small hammer etc.

if i want to put this into a piece of wood, i'd have to chisel out a place for it from the top, and i'd probablt get the same exact result instead of clean edges and then it'ss game over cause i can't just start over. what am i doing wrong here?

>>2983048
I would cut the other direction with bandsaw, scroll, dovetail, or coping. I also don't think you need a full 3/4" thickness for the inlays.

Chisels are never sharp enough. The metal needs to be of good quality and it still takes a craftsman to hone the edge.

A third issue is the type of cut. Anytime you're cutting across the lignin will be more difficult. Notice you had an easier time in the middle of the bow when it's almost parallel to the grain. On top of this the cutoff is probably in the way of your chisel. Most chisels and planes are tuning up lumber edges after enough relief cuts are made. If they dive into a bulk of material, the bevel of the blades either bind or hit wood regardless of whether or not the edge is still cutting.

Basically just always slow down and refine your process.

>>2983017
Personally, mine is 24" deep with 12" of bench and 12" of well. It is rare when I run out of bench, and you can temporarily block in the well if you need it level (though it is obviously less steady than your real bench top there). It is definitely something that is personal preference. The debate on well or no well has been going on for literal centuries. A good thing is that your can add a well easily afterward, especially since your benchtop depth isn't crazy (don't want to reach 36 inches or anything all the time) and the well can be lightly built hanging off the back.

>>2983073
i watched some videos, tried to sharpen the chisel even more and tried on another piece, it went better. i think it's both shitty tools and lack of experience.
thanks for the advice, really appreciate it.

>>2983048
If you think your chisel is sharp, its not sharp. Everything you say and your picture suggests it is not all that sharp. Even cheap steels can be made razor sharp, it won't be as durable but adapting your technique within the limits of the steel will remedy that. High end hand saws are still made from steel left soft enough that they can be sharpened with a file and can do a great deal of cutting between sharpenings, hell, I occasionally make one time use tools out of brass and use them on very dense woods like ebony.

Chisels, regardless of hardness, go dull quickly if they are not sharp enough to do what you ask of them and the duller it is the more that damage happens when you force it, softer steels roll, harder steels crumble and/or chip. My Primary chisels are the Stanley socket chisels that everyone calls garbage, they hold up just as well as my "good" chisels for most jobs, I might not not hit them as hard as some of my other chisels when chopping across the grain in dense woods but that is not that big of a deal unless I am doing a kitchen's worth of dovetailed drawers.

Keep practicing, pay attention to how and when your edge fails so you can avoid repeating it. You will get there.
>>2983074
Filling in a well he decides he does not want would probably be a better path for him, he is already building the bench as big as he feels comfortable with in his small space.

>>2983048
can you shave the hairs off your balls (or arm if you're a pussy) with the chisel?

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>>2983088
>>2983104
thanks anons, picrel is attempt 2. i tried to sharpen a ~2cm wide chisel as sharp as possible and i thought it was sharper thhan the last time, but still it didn't cut as well as in some youtube videos. i managed to at least do something along the grain, but across the grain was pretty much a case of squishing and tearing out the wood.
then i took a smaller chisel and tried sharpening that one even more. took anon's advice to heart about shaving balls and tried the chisels on my arm every time and i wanna claim it cut one hair off, but might've been me trying to gaslight myself.
anyway picrel is the result of the second chisel. i was pretty discouraged but i feel like this at least looks like something that can be improved upon even further, so maybe there's some hope aftter all.

>>2983166
zooming in looks crazy. I thought that was an 8" oak slab.

>>2983166
>and i wanna claim it cut one hair off, but might've been me trying to gaslight myself.
hair poppin sharp means whe you glide over your skin the hairs will bounce away in all directions, not simply bite into the edge and get torns off.
I dont want to sound like an elitist, but thats basically the entrie fee for joinery, and its not even hard to pull off, just some training and the proper gear

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>>2983174
no that's just 25-30mm or so
>>2983191
yeah well i'm 6 hours total into this chisel business, so not exactly tons of experience
>and the proper gear
chisels that look like someone used them to open paint cans or chisel concrete.

attempt 4, there was attempt 3 but didn't take a pic. used the same small shitty chisel and just alternated between carving stuff and trying to sharpen it even more back and forth. there's a gap on one side in the middle but overall i feel like it's okayish for a first attempt

>>2983166
Just wait until you buy a gouge.

Most beginners make the mistake of letting the bevel support the chisel, they plop it on the stone and press on the back of the blade right behind the bevel hard enough that it will stand there on its bevel with no support from the hands and then go at it; this is not good, it will not develop the technique required to sharpen things which don't have a good sized bevel to support the blade and generally will not get a good edge on things with that bevel.

Press the bevel into the stoned with your thumb(s), hold it at that angle with your hands and remove the pressure from your thumbs, push the chisel across the stone and let the sound and feel of it tell you if the bevel is not making full contact. Practice like this with no pressure applied by your thumbs, it will barely cut but error caused by poor technique will be small and easy to fix. once you have it, apply a bit of pressure and sharpen it. It does not take much pressure, let the stone do the work.

Letting the bevel support the blade is part of the poor reputation of the old steels like W1, how they are made they are only at full hardness on the back of the blade where it matters, the front can be quite soft. When you support the blade with the bevel on a chisel like this the top of the bevel wears faster and you end up slowly decreasing the angle which lifts the edge from the stone just enough that it never gets good and sharp. Steels like A2 have very even hardness through the entire blade so this doesn't happen, but having that even hardness means it is slow to sharpen and using the bevel to support the blade means you never develop proper technique.
>>2983201
Technique has improved quite a bit, both sharpening and chiseling. Good work, anon.

>>2983166
>>2983201
>>2983202
Cut the ties with a saw, and use something else to hog out most of the inset material, like a drill/brace with a forstner or just route it out most of the way, then use a chisel to pare the edges.

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>>2983166
>i wanna claim it cut one hair off
It is still not sharp OP. I dunno how to help you though, I can't sharpen shit either.

>>2983217
The thickness of his ties strongly suggests he plans on doing full thickness ties, saw and chisel is far easier and quicker than drill/route and chisel. For making the ties themselves, standard way is single relief cut at the waist and then use the chisel to remove the wood, much quicker and easier than sawing them out, can hog out the bulk in a couple whacks and then pare to perfection.

>>2983219
the most brain dead method to get something sharp is a coarse strop.
form a small burr, strop both sides a minute on an Autosol coated strop

where is a good place other than ebay to sell machinery

I have a lot of machinery but most of it is 3 phase

>>2983566
fb marketplace i suppose
remember to not get scammed like a dunce

>>2983570
how can I get scammed? fake money?

>>2983571
there's tons of methods anon. fake cheques, advance fee scams, sob stories to lower your guard, overpayment "please forward it to my mover" scams, fake payment emails, "is it okay if i pay by zelle?" chargeback, so on so forth.

>>2983572
Didn't know about the zelle method and almost accepted a payment like that for a shipped smaller machine via freight a couple days ago, got any more info you can share on how it works?

I thought zelle was a "you send it, its theirs" type of deal

>>2983575
zelle (etc) chargebacks are honestly more of a "whoops i sent it by accident can you send it back?". they send you money from a stolen credit card, you send it back, months later the card bank reverses the first transaction because it was stolen money, but what you sent was legit, so you're in the hole.
honestly i just read through /r/scams once a week, just to stay informed, it's a nice resource.
if you're selling stuff i'd honestly just accept meeting in person only and cash in hand, nothing else.

>>2983582
Damn didn't know that thank you. Last time I sold machines it was in cash only so I'll keep doing that even for my 3 phase monsters

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should i buy carpenter pencils? a whole box of irwin ones that is a good deal or a small expensive set to try
idk how much i will end up using but really sick of pencils falling off the table and breaking or trying to write on a board and pressing slightly too hard and breaking
sharpening regular pencils basically takes off a huge portion and doesn't grantee the lead not breaking during sharpening do you think carpenter pencils last longer

>>2981624
what kinda studios

>>2983601
They're fine for rough carpentry work and framing, but you're really better off with a mechanical for precision work. To sharpen carpenter's pencils you're also using a knife to shave off a ton of the pencil.

The Pica Dry or Dixon Deep Reach are both good choices with built-in sharpeners for a heavy, thick lead model with a and narrow shaft for marking through screw holes, or just a standard thin-lead model from Target is fine for precision marking with a square.

>>2983607
ugh that crap with special snowflake lead
you loose a $20 one it's gone but you still have lots of spares in a box i work outdoors sometimes

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>>2983608
I mean, you can buy a bulk pack of plastic basic ones for less than a pack of carpenter pencils, or a decent metal one for $10. But the two I listed by name have clip-on holsters if you're worried about losing them.

>>2983601
Carpenter's pencils see an equal amount of usage measuring 1/4" and 1/2" where it's inconvenient or just being a shim. It's for field work, but I tend to use them everywhere. Try them out, it's not for everybody.

>>2983616
they're gay like vape pens

>>2983618
>When you're so insecure that the color of the pencil you're using makes you uncomfortable

>>2983619
nah he's right those are gay as fuck, only non-chink black or grey are acceptable

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>>2983608
also these are fucking r*ddit-tier and will turn you trans

>>2983607
>but you're really better off with a mechanical for precision work
No, you need a knife.
>marking through screw holes
Just use an awl or a nail or the fucking screw

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>>2983631
these are awesome for that and made in usa

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I want to buy a first tool for woodworking, I'm considering either a Dewalt DWE7492 or a Miter Saw ( Dewalt or makita maybe?) which one would be better for a "do most shit" kind of tool?

I'd like to try making some small tables or boxes / trays, nothing insanely mindblowing.

I also considered getting a ryoba / chisels and a handplane but I'm not sure if I'm gonna enjoy the hassle of sharpening tools, also getting a used handplane here in krautland is retarded since everyone wants to sell their basically broken shit for 150 bucks.

>>2983636
interesting because i was considering the same tool to do mindblowing stuff

>>2983638
Of course the mindblowing projects are soon to follow

>>2983636
Table with crosscut sled for shop. The miter is for trimming.

>>2983636
Not a table saw. Yes you can do everything on one doesn’t mean you should. It cant cut anything somewhat wide unless you build an extra table for, and for long cuts you need a crazy amount of free space.

> mitre
I think metabo and hikoki make the better consumer mitre saws for about the same price. If you want to keep cost down the circular saw+mitre combo is probably the nicest. Or start with just a track saw as cross cutting by hand is pretty easy to learn

> ryoba
Get one anyway, theyre cheap and really useful. A razorsaw is like €30 and replacement blades €15

>>2983636
miter saw, i have a metabo hpt it's pretty good, have to re-square it every 6 months but it's a lot more versatile than a table saw for beginner projects. don't expect to do tables though unless you're getting the big box store to precut plywood for you, and definitely don't expect to do full wood table tops with it

>>2983636
Depends what you want to do. I trend towards smaller projects and my first power saw is a barrel grip jigsaw.

Table saws can be very versatile, but you need to buy multiple blades, build/buy jigs, and in general think in a very specific "safety and creativity" intersection on how to safely do stuff with one.

Miter saws are really good at crosscuts. Great at putting angles and bevels on the ends of them. Great at sizing down big lumber to work piece lengths. Not great for anything small.

Man was not meant to remove flat, square sections from the ends of wood, I've concluded.

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>>2983636
You don’t need to buy a tablesaw, you can just make one. Not that youtubers are anything great, but some of the hard-core woodworkers make their own tablesaws.

>>2983675
Hows working with a jigsaw? It always looks like jigsaw cuts are pretty wobbly since there's no guides to move it along.

>>2983700
That's the only purpose the jigsaw is correct for, wobbly cuts. Circ, table, miter, multitool, router, even angle grinder get plenty of turns. I don't even carry a jigsaw anymore and don't miss it.

>>2983691
i made one the arbour is just a bolt between pieces of hardwood and the blade held between two washers and bolts
the bolts are keyed so they don't come loose

>>2983636
>also getting a used handplane here in krautland is retarded since everyone wants to sell their basically broken shit for 150 bucks.
hey join the club, motherfuckers here in poland selling barely working shit for premium prices cause "i know what i got", nigger you ain't got shit.
a man is literally selling a 50 year old planer/thicknesser/whatever multitool for $2k+ equivalent, just becasue it's "unused". like someone bought it and then stashed it for 50 years, and it's not even a good tool, it's cheap commie shit, i can see the rust on the fucking pictures.
i hate people.

>>2983700
I use one of these when I need a straight cut. https://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66126.html

Combine that with a set of Diablo blades that includes one that has all the teeth set towards the center and just taking my time with the cut and I get really nice, clean, square cuts..

>>2983691
>Finger Remover 3000

>>2983705
>Doesn't know how to use one well

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>router plane a piece of wood
>has some slight marks so get a 60grit sandpaper to sand them down
>doesn't work very well so i double down on it
>after a while it's smooth
>spray it with water so the wood hair come out
>leave it alone for a while
>come back to the wood having pox
is this at all salvageable without scraping off the top 1-2mm? i dunno if the sandpaper's been shit quality or maybe a wrong type, but it looks like the material is embedded in the wood. i tried using water and wiping, solvent and wiping, trying to scrape it off slowly, sanding with 250grit and so far nothing works

>>2983742
Hard to see in that picture what you are talking about. Those tiny black spots? And you’re implying those might be pieces of your sandpaper (I.e. the “sand”) embedded in the surface?
Even with cheapo paper, o can’t really think of a mechanism that would embed particles deep into the wood surface. What brand of paper and what machine did you use?

>>2983742
>>2983839
Also, forgot to ask:
You word it, like you used only 60 grit to get it that smooth, that you felt the need to water it, to go even smoother. That’s not how it works. You can’t go that smooth with 60 grit. If you’ve done all the source with 60 grit, you go up in grit (120 is the usual next step) to make it smoother, mostly by now smoothing the coarseness you introduced with your 60grot paper. Using your 60grit longer will just remove more material, but it will always stay the same coarseness. Maybe unless you sand that long that you loose all grit and start polishing the surface with the molten glue of the sandpaper.

>>2983839
>>2983841
thanks. yes that's what i'm implying. i planed 2 pieces and sanded only one, and now the one that's sanded is like that, while that other one looks like regular wood. i used some pos big box store paper (black) and did it by hand
and yes i know i can't get it smooth with coarse paper, i sprayed it with water to get the wood hair to stand up so i can then sand it with more fine paper
i can't think of any other reason why the wood turned black like that

>>2983853
>i can't think of any other reason why the wood turned black like that
embedded iron + water + tannic acid
or sic particles from the wet and dry

>>2983853
you sure it's not just that you sprayed it with dirty water from a disintegrating hose or something?

>>2983741
There are nicer jigsaws, but it's still an inferior tool to all of those listed.

The entire point of the jigsaw is that it's stupid easy and maneuverable. That doesn't compensate the fact that it doesn't cut cleanly or quickly.

>>2983878
>That doesn't compensate the fact that it doesn't cut cleanly or quickly.
Skill issue.

>>2983888
Post your jigsaw projects. I'm ready to learn.

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>>2983900
Jigsaw to cut the ends square, then a router to cut the dado for the cheese cutter.

>>2983900
https://www.diablotools.com/products/DJT308BFP5

This is the blade I use for really clean work. Take your time, use a guide, and don't force it. Forcing it's what causes deflection and ugly/unsquare cuts.

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>>2983900

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>>2983857
>>2983858
i bought some new, supposedly high quality paper and used an orbital sander gently this time, on another board, picrel is the result, this is after spraying it twice(and sanding after that).
my conclusion is that i used shitty paper that's not really for woodworking, and pressed on it way too hard
also fucking lovely how smooth the wood has become, can't get enough of it

>>2983986
How did you make the 20 inch rip with the jigsaw?

>>2984002
the what? sorry maybe you're thinking of another anon, i cut these with a miter saw

>>2983916
I might use a resaw, a circsaw and track if you need it, a planer, and an orbital. But a jigsaw is pretty good at covering all these bases.

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Made babby's first workbench design in Blender. Tell me what you think, don't hold back. It's designed to take into account my incompetence, lack of tools and some of your feedback.
>spruce I guess because it is cheap
>155 cm wide, 50cm deep, 110cm high (I'm a tallfag)
>10x10 cm legs (4x4")
>10x5 cm boards (4x2"), except the 20x5cm apron
>MDF shelf on the bottom, can add drawers later
>mostly easy to make joints, only the two center supports are mortise & tenon
>glued, will only use fasteners if it turns out to be necessary
>vise is offset from corner because there's a couch on the left side and I want some margin
>no tail vise because I only have 150cm in width to play with
>10x8cm tool well without ramps because I can't brush shit out to the sides anyway as there is furniture
>rubber feet

I plan to add dog holes in the top and vise, a slight overhang at the wall-side to prevent a gap caused by skirting board, maybe an 18mm MDF sheet underneath the actual benchtop to add weight and stability, retractable wheels so I can move it to the middle of the living room if I need more space, and maybe use 2 types of wood to give it some contrast. It is in a living room, after all. I'm guessing these joints are retarded but I'm not sure. Please bully, mache alles.

>>2984329
Ok then: those two-side lab joints suck and should only be used for sheds. Being a hair off on height on any joint would weaken both the joint and make the leg way less stiff. You really don’t need the stretcher if you have the apron. The central short side support is glued in on its end grain, doesn’t work. Use a stop dado or whatever. The aprons are butt jointed all around so the glue joint would be very weak. The short side aprons will do fuck all. Offset the heights of the lower long side and short side supports, so that you can use proper lap joints or something better. Everything you store on the lower platform will vibrate and fall off when you use the bench. You don’t normally store anything in/on/under a free standing workbench. Might as well keep that space underneath free.

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>>2984342
woodworking is hard!

>>2984329
My preference is a cheap sheet on the top working surface. Mine eats dye, solder, drill bits, and whatever else spills onto it. My last cabinet shop would just throw melamine on top and let it ride. My daily driver at home is whatever LDF was in the bargain bin at menards.

I'd also recommend just screwing this one together. That way, after discovering what you like and don't like, it's easy to harvest the parts and reconfigure.

>making small lignum vitae plane
>hard shit but surprisingly does not kill chisels
>get bulk of waste removed
>go to open the mouth
>split most of a side off
Probably had a tight check that would have opened up and ruined the plane anyways, only a light tap with the mallet to square us the side of the mouth and off it flew. Having to redo the layout bothers me more than having to redo the work. Think I will go quick and easy instead of fancy this time and just use beech, maybe a lignum sole so I can use this plane on end grain.
>>2984329
Raise the shelf high enough that your feet can easily go under, it will make things far more comfortable since you have no overhang up front. I would do at least 8", possibly 12" so the space is not wasted, lots of stuff you can shove under it it is 12" high, not as much if it is 8". Not having good toe clearance gets old quick, as does having to slide your foot in and out from under, have enough height that you can move to the other end of the bench with ease when your toes are under it.

Did you work out a plan for supporting the ends of long boards while working their edge in the vise? You will need it.
>>2984352
Screw only construction sucks for benches which will see much hand plane use. Make it reasonably well and it will be easy to sell for more than the cost of the materials.

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>>2984355
dude i have gauged out pieces of lignum soles before with a cardscraper. that shit is unforgiving.
I would preplan the bench for a simple drawer and i assume your vise is a french one? In that case what you have planed doesnt work, the vise jaw cant have huge overhangs, that shit will flex and release the clamping pressure. Look at pic, the jaw is only 3x the height of the ro diameter.
You would need one of these english pattern cast iron vise
And last, if you dont have space to the left anyway, why not build a german vise. They can clamp odd shapes as the jaw is tiltable, double act as planning stop when shooting edges and have a 90° face for clamping board straight. pic shows an overbuild one

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what's the point/benefit in buying rough boards like these? i understand buying large slabs so you can make a live edge table or whatever, but these narrow crooked ones look like they would be only useful for cutting boards, and not even that since the ones in the pic are knotted to fuck. they're also expensive since it's "italian walnut" and the seller is delusional or some shit.

>>2984415
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCbB7zbwiwc

>>2984424
no i mean, actual real world woodworking usage, not cringe influencer shit

>>2984355
You're selling work benches? I could build 8 of those things in an afternoon.

The point of the screw construction is easy deconstruction and trialing, not to be the best in every way. Lag it if you're worried about movement.

>>2984415
There's no use for that besides looks. Rip it for veneer or purfling.

>>2984415
Live edge shelves?

>>2984438
>Industrial shop/s custom work guys doing one-off products with waste material cuts that sell out completely
You're a fucking idiot.

>>2984413
It is not my bench and nothing wrong with his vise plan, it won't work for all tasks but nothing will. It will securely hold many things which shoulder vises fail miserably at holding and can do many of the tricks of the tail vise which German/Dutch style benches rely on, so no need for a tail vise.

To say what is the ideal vise for him requires knowing the sort of work he is going to do and even then you have a fair chance of being wrong. That vise setup will work fine for a great amount of work, if it were me I would double its thickness and move the screw up higher but that is just because it would suit the work I do and how I work better.
>>2984451
Your point with the screw construction was clear, reiterating your point does not change anything. The reason people who work with hand tools use joinery and glue for their benches is because it is the only thing that really holds up to all that plane work, you would have to use considerably more wood and a more complex undercarriage to make it sturdy enough if just screwed or lagged together.

I don't make benches to sell, just have sold my old benches when I have decided I wanted something different or moved. Any decently made bench will sell quickly if you don't expect to make a living off it, I just listed them in the usual places for ~$100 more than materials and they are gone within a week.

>>2984501
I will soak the boards in waterglass to reinforce the material properties of the retail construction lumber. Then I'll use an entire box of ring shank nails in addition to bolts and threaded rod. After I will cover all surfaces in a combination of fiberglass laminating resin and epoxy. I will hand polish every inch of it so that you can see my smug face in the reflection when my listing shows up next to yours on Etsy.

Is there a better finish than water based polyurethane for desks? it seems to last forever and is non oily so it doesn't wreck stuff you put on the desk, not to mention it's waterproof

>>2984559
Poly gets a bad rap in these communities because it's annoying to tool and simply being a polymer. You're getting durability, transparency, and it's cost effective. "Better" depends on what qualities are important.

>>2984561
hmm I quite like poly but didn't realise it had a stigma around it.
the main qualities I'm looking for are inertness and durability.

Humblebundle has a bunch of books for woodworking right now for entry level if people are interested, it's for next 5 days

>>2984559
What finishes other than non-drying oils are oily after dry?

Nitrocellulose lacquer will give a more durable finish that is easier to repair than poly. Nitro has the drawback of requiring time to cure after drying but it dries quickly. Many dislike using it because of the solvents it uses. The most durable of the quick drying finishes.

Oils like linseed and tung are slow to dry and require many thin coats. Easy to repair but not clear like nitro or poly. Oil is the hardest and most durable finish but it takes decades to get there and lots of thin coats, it gets to poly level durability within a month or two and is dry within a week or two.

Shellac is not particularly durable but often durable enough and is the easiest to repair and the quickest to dry, which can make up for the lack of durability. Can achieve some of the most amazing looking finishes with shellac.

Traditional varnishes cover the range, dry times tend to be in the poly range to a bit longer, easy to repair and some very nice options out there but pricey. There are also more modern things called varnish, these tend to be poly based with some color added to mimic a traditional varnish. Traditional varnishes being a mix of oils, resins (like shellac or any plant resins like mastic or frankincense) and solvent all cooked up together. Durability can be great but depends on the varnish, some are not much better than shellac.
>>2984562
Poly only has a poor reputation because people often use the thick single coat stuff which leaves a plastic looking coating on the wood that is not particularly even in thickness. Thin the poly or use a thinner poly meant to be applied in multiple coats, sand between coats and you can get a good looking finish that does not have that plastic look. Good for dry time, durable enough for most things but sucks for repair.

>>2984576
nice write up, this is going to sound so stupid but I don't like oil based stuff because I have OCD around oil. when I've used pu it's been in 3 coats with sanding after the first one.

I might also look into plant resins. I'm a bit against shellac because I don't like the process of making it

>>2984585
The only plant based resin finishes I know of are urushi and cashew lacquer but I don't know how much the resin plays into the final product beyond giving a slight difference between urushi and cashew. These are essentially the same finish, just slightly different aesthetic qualities caused by the the other stuff which the source tree adds into the mix.

The little I played with pure plant resin finishes was not promising, they do soften and get sticky with heat and the heat from a laptop would be enough. Cooked into a varnish solves this problem but I don't think you will find traditional varnishes that will tell you they are shellac free, but someone might be making some.

Traditional varnishes and cashew/urushi are expensive and not twice the price of poly sort of expensive, more like 10 times the price of poly. But they are nice finishes.

>>2984559
Binary hardwax oil or UV-cured are probably going to be your two best bets. The UV one is really big with a lot of pro shops now, since outside of an initial outlay for a lamp the finish itself is relatively cheap, has no VOC offgassing, you don't need to use much, just wipe a thin coat on, and it's cured as soon as you've waved the lamp over it.

But, if you're only planning to do one or two pieces a small amount of Osmo 2K or Rubio Monocoat will get you a smooth, durable finish that feels like the wood.

>>2984486
you're right anon, it sold out becasue they're competent woodworkers. if they hadn't had a youtube channel and made a show out of making them, they would've sold out all the same, surely.

>>2984501
>and nothing wrong with his vise plan
im telling you this out of experience. i have a similar vise on my bench and its my biggest regret, only looks good on paper. Your drawing is even worse than mine

>>2984632
>fails to follow the thread
>even after having it pointed out to him
>fails to address what was said
>just trust me bro
I used pretty much that same vise setup for years, like every other vise I have had, it had its strengths and weaknesses. No single vise works for everything but you may find a single vise that works for everything you want to use a vise for. Shoulder vise is not particularly versatile and seriously sucks for a great many things, which is why most benches with shoulder vises also have a tail vise. Putting in the time is the only way you can know what sort of vise you need for the way you work and the work you do, and how that vise should be designed.

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>>2984641
>I used pretty much that same vise setup for years, like every other vise I have had
this, with a >5" tall jaw and the hardware installed at the very bottom?

Next time, let's see the furniture before we recommend slathering it in Youtube's Favorite Finish™ or Reddit Oil

>>2984659
anymore i do lacquer for indoor pieces and thinned tung oil for outdoor. steer clear of whatever sponsor-of-the-month is paying yootoobers to push their shit

>>2984682
>thinned tung oil for outdoor.
i just started reading up on it and some people are really singing it's praises. is it really that good anon?

>>2984630
They're successful in a space others have tried and failed at, and you're just being a jealous bitch.

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How do I know when my handsaw needs sharpening?

>>2984686
i like it, it's easy, usually put 5 or 6 coats on then every year reapply it. much preferred over something like spar urethane that i'd have to sand down to fix. protecting the end grain with epoxy or something would probably help out but bird houses, planters, etc don't really matter that much in my mind; i've got a 5 year old bird house that i haven't once re-oiled and aside from the end grain getting black from the sun it's still holding up well in northeast ohio weather

>>2984688
sure anon, you got me
have a good one

>>2984715
i think that youtube video was also gay as fuck, you're not alone anon

>>2980643
You could print the handles of custom woodworking tools. Or connector fittings for dust collection. You could also try to print a shop vacuum. Woodworking and 3d printing are not mutually exclusive.

>>2984716
Being a jealous little bitch isn't a condition unique to one person.

>>2984732
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Joj_Q3zZyA

>>2984732
i printed a bowtie so i could trace it, took 30 minutes

>>2984415
Cut it down and sell small pieces for pens,knifes etc.

>>2984734
neither is being a mouth-breathing faggot

>>2984767
Says the guy who shits on "durr you posted a video about how successful woodworkers used "bad" wood to make a cool project that sells out."

>>2984772
>successful youtubers used a "bad" wood to make a cool project that sells out
ftfy

>>2984649
Yes. It works perfectly well as long as ~half the jaw is filled by the stock you are working. Narrow stock sucks but most narrow stock can generally be done on top of the bench so this is not a huge deal. By far the best vise I have ever used for working wide, thin stock, something both shoulder and tail vises are mostly useless for. For awhile I had a caul that could be slipped over the jaw, had 1/4" cork on the inside and covered the top ~2" of the jaw, made it work for narrow stuff but I grew accustomed to doing narrow stock on top of the bench so only used it for those odd rare bits that really needed to be in a vise.

If you had actually read my post I said if it were me I would double the thickness of the jaw and raise the hardware a few inches, but that is just for the sort of work I do and how I work. I would probably double the thickness either way but if 90% of your vise work is drawer and box sides, it would probably be fine as drawn and adding thickness later is easy. Either way, you design/build around your work holding or seethe and make nothing.
>>2984686
Thinned linseed and tung were the go to finishes for the bright work on wooden boats and there are still a few old guys at my marina that use it, their boats look better than the boats of people who use more modern finishes. It is great stuff. for indoor stuff I add some beeswax for most things, just use a cheap cheese grater on the wax and mix it in, the turpentine you use to thin the oil will dissolve the wax. The wax lets you do a thinner finish that feels more like wood without having something that will be stained by every spill and sweating glass.
>>2984695
Set the saw teeth on your palm with no pressure but the weight of the saw, barely push (or pull if pull saw), if it is sharp you will feel the teeth catch your skin. Just remember that you only push hard enough to see if it will catch your skin, don't cut your hand off.

>>2984780
They're a furniture company that also does Youtube vids, dingus.

>>2983676
Update: screws are all you need anyway

>>2984792
sure anon, and it's because they're a furniture company that their gimmick resin things sold out. it has totally nothing to do with them being big youtubers. in fact, if they weren't big youtubers, it would've sold out just the same.

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I do whittling and I'm considering making a wood clock for my grandparents, wish me luck bros.

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>>2984901

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>>2984699
>>2984781
thanks anons, tung oil sounds pretty interesting, and i like how it looks. i want to try giving it a go when i can.
in other news, i made a shitty mallet for chiseling and such.

>>2984956
eh, it's neither the best nor quickest finish but it has its place. like i said i really only use it for outdoor projects that need to remain non-toxic. don't give a shit what (((they))) say about cured finishes, i'm not growing food in something with a plastic coating

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>>2984901
there are no woodworking or furniture companies on youtube there's only youtubers who know how to use basic saws to make monetized videos, and they're all out-competing each other for the most outlandish (((viral))) slop. those fags will go back through their analytics, find what got the most views, and keep going in that direction until it inevitably becomes a sponsored-slop-of-the-week tool channel

>>2981988
I made my first project out of hundreds of dollars of walnut and didn't waste any of it because I measured carefully every time.

i don't care for walnut
>gets lighter with uv exposure
>open grain
>overused
>needlessly expensive
cherry is much more enjoyable

>>2985176
Cherry's natural color is too specific, it isn't as versatile as walnut. Walnut goes with everything.

>>2985187
cherry stands on its own. walnut requires everything to stand out

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>>2985188
walnut pretty

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>>2985176
>>2985187
Whining about walnut changing color when cherry is way more aggressive about it over time is pretty funny.

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>>2985207
Makes repairing cherry furniture a fucking pain in the ass. My first experience was rehabbing a cheap cherry dining room table off of CL. Lovely little drop leaf table that some mongoloid 'fixed' by regluing the joints with gorilla glue. Did they get the joints tight? FUCK NO but at least the used a fucking shitton of glue that foamed up all over the place. Just strip it and refinished it. Next thing you know the thing looks white as pine while the old sections are almost red. Thought I fucked that one up super bad. Did the stripper bleach the wood?! Nah, that's just what happens with cherry. Ended up having to refinish the whole table to get things to match but she looked pretty good when finished. Gave it to a friend as a housewarming gift. This is the 'before' picture.

>>2985207
correct, cherry ages gracefully
>>2985193
at least you posted your work instead of lying about it like the other two retards itt, i'm glad you like walnut
>>2985208
skill issue. every other wood species also has this problem

>>2985213
>skill issue.
Did the "My first experience" clue you into that fact or did you have to have your mom's husband come and explain it to you?

>glue 2 pieces of wood together
>after 24 hours they hold nicely
>plane one side with a router, it's flat
>flip it around and plane the other side
>the second i pick it up to check it i notice there's a slight cup
>i check the other side and the whole board is bowed, so it's not the router's fault
literally the second i took it out, what's going on here? i planed other pieces of the same board and they're fine.

>>2985240
to be perfectly honest your writing makes it seem like you're not very educated + kind of self-centered so i really only briefly skimmed over that post

>>2985265
planing likely caused moisture to get released or absorbed more on one side. i've had it happen with maple weirdly a lot. you can try leaving the bow-side up in the sun or spraying the cupped side with a little water but that may also make things worse. you'll figure it out though just keep moving forward

Why should I give a damn if my live edge slab is dead level and flat? It's supposed to look like a hunk of wood, if it's a little lumpy what's the problem?

I like to collect woodworking manuals from the 70s and 80s and use them for project inspiration. Theres a lot of helpful info to understand the methods but I wish there were more plans and drawings.

Do you guys know of good project books or websites that are more like a library of drawings and photos?

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>>2985315
i've been wanting picrel but this list has a lot of good stuff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KXQMDXM

not sure if you're looking for antiques or just books with classic drawings

>>2980606
Check out workshop companion on YouTube. He mostly does shorts but he goes really in depth on a concept for 2-3 minutes and he’s a really good explainer. Old guy with a ton of experience and doesn’t do any sponsors or mention brand names much

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Built a shed last summer, wet winter seems to have infected the siding with mould, inside and out despite using this Sika wood preserver stuff, tried to treat it to no effect.
Is this too far gone? Should I replace the infected boards or can I paint over it?
What should I use to treat the sidings to prevent this in the future? Just paint?
Thanks.

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Total newbie here. Making a gate for my garden. It's nothing fancy, it's a temp garden and I'm using scrap wood.

I see lots of people advising to avoid screwing into end grain at all costs because it's weak and splinters. Is that true? Then why do I see every tutorial for gate-making screwing into end grain? Shouldn't it be more like the right side, overlapping the boards so you can screw into the face grain? Does the brace not work as well if I do that? Is it just because of aesthetics?

I know this doesn't matter much since this gate is only meant to last a few years. But I want to learn for future projects.

>>2985407
>to avoid screwing into end grain
when any meaningful load is expected. this is a small gate made from light wood, it's meaningless.

>>2985407
The actual answer to your question is to use pocket screws, but the post above is correct it really doesn’t matter much

>>2985407
mortice and tenon with weatherproof glue
screws are not appropriate here

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>>2985407
It is called a half-lap joint and yes, that is the better way to make the gate. For the brace, you want it in between the other timber. It doesn't get screwed into the faces. Make sure the bottom of the brace is on the hinge side and the top of the brace is on the latch side. You want the brace to be a nice tight fit. No slop.

Screws are better to use than nails unless you clench the nails. That is a lot of work so no one does it anymore.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bENATUI5H4o

>>2985467
>half-lap joint
I only have a hand-saw and screw-gun. And I'm using wood that's like 1 inch thick. I can't pull off something that fancy. Wouldn't a full lap joint be stronger anyway?

>For the brace, you want it in between the other timber. It doesn't get screwed into the faces
In your vid he has a similar design to mine. The brace and two rows are on a different level. He just has more planks and clenches the nails. I don't see any half-joints. So I assume fully overlapping is fine?

>>2985459
>mortice and tenon with weatherproof glue
Like I said above, I can't do fancy joints. But it's cool to know about these techniques so thanks. Maybe one day when I get better tools.

>screws are not appropriate here
why not?

>>2985428
>pocket screws
Isn't that basically the same effect? It looks cleaner but you are still doing a butt joint. So isn't that more effort for a weaker joint?

>>2985487
anon, you're really overthinking this. i made a gate that was 4 pieces of wood connected by metal brackets, and then a brace that was at like 1/4th the diagonal length. i could take a picture of it tomorrow cause i disassembled it later, and it's still fine. it creaked a bit and that's it. like, do you expect people to lean on it or something? if so then yeah, a dingy design like mine would break, but my design was so the dog doesn't get out, that's it.

>>2985488
okay okay I'll stop procrastinating...

>>2985487
>Maybe one day when I get better tools.
when i was a boy we mad planters in wood shop with a tenon saw (short hand saw with reinforced/stiffened back) an adjustable square and a chisel. and a hammer i suppose. yes you can spend thousands on tools but if you don't have the patients to do it the old way you aren't going to suddenly be able to do it the fancy dan way either.

you say only needs to last a few years. depends on the weather, how often its used, who uses it, how big it is.
wood outside that gets wet doesn't offer very much in the way of stability for holding screws in. a gate looks simple but its only supported at one side, there is a lot of force multiplication depending how wide it is and what fat cunt leans on it as they open it. only takes a little for a screw in wet wood to start to give and once it gives the gate sags and once it sags it doesnt fit the gap so it doesn't close any more.

at the end of the day sometimes the easiest way to learn is to do it and see what happens. maybe it will work for you who knows.

>>2985467
>Screws are better to use than nails unless you clench the nails

I'm just going to clench the screws!
Pro-grade. Right there.

>>2984682
Lacquer is the most "spray and walk away" in my experience.

I'm unconvinced some of the high end finishes aren't a blend we could do ourselves.

>>2985372
I'd blast kilz oil base if I had to spend time inside.

this might be a dumb question, but which finishes darken the wood the most, without staining it? i don't want to have an artificial stain, but i'd like to know which finish changes the appearance of the wood the most, without having any pigments or otherwise.

>>2985584
French polish.

>>2985585
you mean shellac? thanks.

>>2985584
Shou sugi ban? Instead of staining you char the surface of the wood.

>>2985584
ebonizing technically

>>2985584
oil-based urethane, boiled linseed oil, or tung oil. there are a ton of things you can do to the wood like iron acetate or ferrous sulfate + potassium dichromate. if it's white oak and you can get a hold of some ammonium hydroxide you can fume it. all depends on your safety tolerance really and what you can buy (e.g. nitric acid)

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>>2985615
>>2985623
>>2985635
some of those are a bit more advanced than simple "put this on the wood", but thanks anons, the more you know.

>>2985642
there's really nothing wrong with stain or dye. i love walnut shells on fir

>>2985645
no i'm not saying stains are haram or some shit, i'm not a purist or a baiting youtuber. i'm just an extreme beginner so i want to learn about finishes as i go along and how they affect the look of the wood, without using stains first, so i know what to expect when i choose product X or Y later.

>>2985584
anything permeable which oil is the only i can think of.
What darkens wood is oxygen, anything that blocks that like wax or laquer will slow this process down considerable

>>2985647
water born polyurethane and lacquer are the best at preserving color while also giving good protection. then you've got your sheens; dead flat, flat, satin, semi-gloss, gloss, generally stay between dead-flat and satin unless there's a specific reason. there are also clear hard wax oils but in my experience only other woodworkers appreciate the "natural" grain and they don't offer much protection but are easier to fix. then you've got your wildcards like shellac which i use for picture frames a lot, looks great after you hit it with some wax and 0000 steel wool. these are great books on the topic:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1610353056
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1497101476

>>2985653
thanks anon, appreciate it
> looks great after you hit it with some wax
okay makes sense
>and 0000 steel wool
why? to sand the surface down to mat, or is there some reaction from steel?

>>2985653
>there are also clear hard wax oils but in my experience only other woodworkers appreciate the "natural" grain and they don't offer much protection but are easier to fix.
Depends on what kind of protection, they're pretty good for preventing staining, though a lot of people who make furniture with it like desks and dining tables will boost that with a nano-ceramic treatment that makes it completely impermeable.

>>2985653
Another good finish for hands-off stuff like sculptures is beeswax.

>>2985584
If you want uniform black, use ink or good paint. Stains will have natural highs and lows. Dyes are more penetrating, smaller particle than stains. You can create color layers sanding and adding more dye. Ebonizing or iron buffing is as much a chemistry craft as a finishing skill. You're adding extra variables of uncertainty attempting, but it's natural I suppose.

>>2985656
you put a little wax on the steel wool and rub out the shellac with it, knocks off any nibs making it smooth as butter and also gets it to a satin sheen
>>2985693
and then someone comes along with a fingernail and completely defeats all that. waste of money for a desk or anything getting heavy use but like i said at least easier to repair
>>2985694
always good to have beeswax and paraffin in the shop anyways

>>2985718
not the op but been trying to figure out the right mix for japanning unfortunately gilsonite is kinda hard to find on amazon

>>2985647
this is walnut with nothing but a single coat if tung oil before and after
>>2985193

generally you can just spray down wood with water to see what it will look like with a clear finish.

>>2985729
If he's doing urushi, I think we deserved more context.

>>2985586
French polish is a technique that includes shellac and oil applied in a great many very thin layers.

>>2985743
wtf does that have to do in the context of darkening the wood? Is this an elaborate skit about some post I made two years ago?

>>2985745
It is the finish which changes the appearance of the wood the most without staining it. Any finish that darkens the wood, stains the wood.

>>2985764
Pour black epoxy if it's a semantics competition.

The garnet flake? I know straight BLO darkens quickly over time and use, within weeks. I haven't mastered what each finish is going to do over several decades. Everyone wants to rip out their orange kitchens, however.

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>>2985764
having done a few small and large french polishes shellac will minimally darken it, it's not gonna be as drastic as oil finishes, nor is it even worth it unless you're doing something period correct. picrel is a scrap of walnut i did a pretty shitty job but managed to fill the grain at least with gravy

>>2985773
orange kitchens are more a war on red oak, who would shellac a fucken kitchen cabinet

>>2985811
Painters will do whatever you pay them to do. You're the one that wants to shellac everything, so knock yourself out.

>>2985832
not in the slightest, i shellac picture frames and that's about it

>>2985804
I mean, if you really want to use shellac to darken the wood you can always add some Transtint, same as with any other finish.