File: vintage-lamp-swing-arm-lamp-drafting-table-light-archetectural-light-butter-yellow.jpg (69.7 KB)
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>>2988517
> have to be perfectly tuned for it to work
Somewhat perfectly. >>2988518 is correct but the most resistance is still from the main joint. That big knob at the top adjusts the friction. The springs are there so that it doesn’t need a load of friction to stay upright. Most of these won’t actually hold in all positions without adjusting the knob, so you got some margin there
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>>2988517
>I want to /diy/ my own spring loaded floating arm stand
says he is going to do something, then asks other people how to do it.
it doesn't matter you don't have the skills or initiative to actually do it, and you won't.
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>>2988517
Balanced arm lamp, commonly known as ikea tertial
>>2988578
Come on man once he has the statics figured out it’s super easy. Had to do it in 1st year of mech Eng I’m sure a somewhat motivated anon could do it
>>2988517
All you really need to know, moving the lamp away from the base should extend the spring(s) and vice versa. You can tune the spring preload by moving the attachment point to a factor 5 or so, so stiffness is not super important. Most furniture springs should do, look at home depot for similar size or get replacement springs for a tertial from ikea (or a broken one from marketplace). Most furniture springs of a similar size should do, Lowes or aliexpress will have them
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File: lamp.jpg (19.8 KB)
>>2988517
Funny this thread exists because I'm trying to do the same thing.
My issue right now is that this section can be barely tilted. I've seen 2 different lamps and a mic stand exactly like this. I wonder what the point of it being double springed if this section can't move. The design mislead me to believe it can be extended forward and back, but really you can only tilt the upper arm up and down. I need an arm that can actually retract.