feels good to be back boys, i got 10 more pickets drying in the garage for another planter. picked up the klein moisture meter for $50, wouldn't bet my life on the readings but overall i'm happy with it

Any wood staining/finishing people here?

I bought some cheap acacia outdoor tiles for my apartment balcony and I'm looking for the lowest effort coating or treatment to keep them from turning to shit.

They don't have to look good, just decent. I'm looking for the absolute bare bones stain or varnish or oil or whatever that will be the minimum effort to brush on once a year. I don't want something that I have to apply, leave for 2-3 days while it dries and then apply again. I don't want something that I have to sand off in order to reapply.

Anybody have any ideas? Would the easiest thing be to just touch up the stain whenever it starts fading off, or is it worth it to do something to protect the stain once it's on?

File: 9c040ac3-16bb-5b7b-ab14-2461843ac143.png (851.6 KB)

>>2989618
Here's someone else's photo of how they look new versus how they look with the stain worn off... I almost prefer the weathered/unfinished look but IDK if there's an easy way to remove the stain when they're new and skip the ugly partially-worn state

File: Shellac_varities[1].png (1.1 MB)

>>2989618
>>2989627
The first step would be identifying if they have any kind of protective finish. Like a varnish or lacquer or something. Once you know what you've got you can look into stripping that off.

As for protecting the wood, look into shellac. It is not super durable but you can basically just brush it on. Once it dries it is done. You want it tougher? Do additional coats. Oh no, it got damaged? Just brush on more. You can also tint it if you want some fancy colors or different shades.

Once thing, it is a byproduct from a bug, so it is not vegan. I mean, for me that is a plus but I know others don't like it. Don't get the fancy expensive bullshit stuff. Get the chips and make your own. It is cheaper.

>>2989627
sand or just let them go, will probably fade in a year anyways let the earth absorb its sweet nectar. else go with something for decks

>>2989618
Behr exterior penetrating oil, available at HD

>>2989627
100% tung oil or die.
Waiting 3 days and wiping the excess after 30-60 minutes is essential, no shortcuts.

>>2989558
Having roof done. Contractor says moisture in attic. Rafters are all damp and need to be replaced for $$. Whip out my moisture meter and read 8%.

Is this guy a scammer or what?

>>2989752
Check the rafters. Are they wet? Are they coming apart, moldy, or damaged? Did you get a second and third opinion like a sensible person always does?

>>2989752
8% sounds suspicious. are you sure you trust your moisture meter? do you live in the desert or something?

>>2989752
if leak new, wet rafters are a non-issue
do you suspect rafters are deteriorated due to moisture intrusion from a longstanding leak, to the point where they are structurally compromised?
You check this with a screwdriver not a moisture meter.

>>2989762
>Check the rafters. Are they wet? Are they coming apart, moldy, or damaged?
No. And no.
>8% sounds suspicious. are you sure you trust your moisture meter?
It reads about 40% on a piece of bare plywood outside but under cover.
> do you live in the desert or something?
Washington State. But the attic is very well ventilated and it gets hot up there when the sun is out. So I figure the structure gets baked pretty well.
>do you suspect rafters are deteriorated due to moisture intrusion from a longstanding leak,
No leak evident. Contractor might think I'm an idiot and he's looking for more work. There's a few sheets of plywood that are a bit mushy where rain got driven under old shingles. But that's about it.

File: IMG_0559.jpg (150.3 KB)

>>2989863
Nta but neither measurement sounds reasonable, should be 10-30 for both unless were talking baked as in fire hazard hot. If it gets and stays under 15ish % and theres no rot visible you should be fine. Do a pick test with an awl or screwdriver.

>>2989744
Tung tung tung oil?

>>2989752
Tear the whole house down and repour the foundation. If it was 7% you'd be cool. What's your elevation above sea level and barometer?

File: 20260429_151947.jpg (1.8 MB)

got this for like 3 dollars. i sharpened it and the edge is pretty good, but it's basically unusable with this hackjob front. any pointers on how to fix this? any advice is appreciated. also

>sand some random pieces of oak
>spray them with water so the wood hair raise
>rest them on some plastic brackets and angle iron since i had it lying around so why not
>come back 3 hours later, boards look dry
>flip them around
>every single one has this fucking huge purplish line on them, exactly where the steel was touching
now you can learn from my mistake

>>2990228
do a better job of joining the new nose. Probably choose taller material. Then take 1/16 off the entire bottom edge with a tablesaw. Chamfer the tip and wax.

idk I only use power tools

>>2990228
This is why you dont use nails with oak. Don't even use glue from a bottle that's been capped with a screw or nail even once in its life.
>>2990233
This is OK but should read "fix the large crack, then either cut off the nose or the entire sole, glue a new sole on and flatten using any available method."

>>2990250
Is this thread going to be 300 posts of pissing contest again?

I’m looking to make a chess board but all instruction videos tell me to glue laminate the light/dark strips then cut into new strips then flip 4 of them and glue up again. But that 2nd glue joint would be 100% end grain to end grain, right?
Should I do anything special to make that a good glue joint? Or do I just rely on the backing board for strength

>>2990304
You can have a backer sheet and a border to lock everything together.

>>2990274
well the crack IS a problem, even i can see that
>>2990233
>>2990250
thanks, i'll see what i can do. by the way that nose is screwed on

>>2990313
Well, you might want to get the base coplanar and stop the crack by the frog from propagating. Odds are the blade isn't sharp.

How about we take care of our tools before posting graphs and ripping roofs down? Pour tung oil on everything and hope tomorrow is better.

File: IMG_7065.jpg (125.1 KB)

I did a thing!
Where’s my
>WTF are you trying to do? What even is that?
Award, Reddit?

File: Screenshot_20260512-062918.png (1.5 MB)

>>2990334
i put mine in another bucket to keep it from imploding, nice work though, does it still work properly?

>>2990336
>tfw you made le funneyi shitpost feeling all smug and five minutes later someone figured it out what you where trying to do
It works quite good, it seems, but I have yet to acquire a cigarette to test it for leaks. Or maybe I should smoke my workshop again with incense (though it’s not as Smokey as a cigarette but smells better).
Hard to judge if it uses more power than my big, fixed double cyclone system. And I just need to figure out some kind of attachment to my vacuum, so I can wheel it around with it.

>>2990274
Thank you anon for pointing that out, I'll try to be less vindictive.

File: IMG_0592.jpg (3.0 MB)

why nobody posts projects anymore? todays project is a guitar stand that looks like a chair

Are there any cool accessories which go well with woodworking that I can 3D print?

So far all I've made which i semi-decent is a sanding paper block.

File: Screenshot_20260514-150154.png (1.2 MB)

>>2990804
corner radiuses (radii?) are pretty straightforward to draw up and make parametric for whatever sizes you want. what's your sanding block design? been meaning to make one all i'm using is a scrap with some velcro on each side

>>2990807
Sorry when I said I made, I mean I printed, not actually mine.

https://www.printables.com/model/563271-sanding-block-93x115-115x140

>corner radiuses
Thanks, might do one of these next.

File: Screenshot_20260514-150842.png (872.3 KB)

>>2990804
i also do a lot of picture frames, broke down and bought a logan 45° cutter for matboard but for the 90° cuts i settled on 2nd from the right. mostly just learning how to draw grips in cad and make it as compact as possible. i'm sure i did it wrong but saved like $40

>>2990808
how's the threads? i was thinking of making something with some sort of wedge action to hold the paper; my printer is an old lulzbot and not that accurate or fast for printing a bunch of different sizes blocks

File: Screenshot_20260514-155552.png (1.3 MB)

>>2990804
oh, various dust adapters too, no sense in paying for them just make sure you do like a 1-2° draft

>>2990804
I'm not sure about the right material to use but I'm pretty sure I've seen printed feather guides for table saws / band saws
A center finder / marker is easy as well, if you could get tight gearing you could make one that expands / contracts

Does printed plastic would hold up well against router bearings for jigs? You could easily print a wider / better base for a router plate tho. I think most people (myself included) hate how tiny they are out of the box and replace them

>>2990819
i've had no problems with my corner jigs and router bearings but printing something large and flat like a new router plate warps too much for me on the bed. something to keep in mind i guess. one day i'll get a co2 laser and go crazy on some acrylic; my diode laser just can't do it. unfortunately buying a co2 laser just for that though isn't really justifiable

>>2990797
i did but i'm extremely slow

File: boxxy.jpg (727.0 KB)

>>2990797
>why nobody posts projects anymore?
Those that do projects are too busy doing them and won't waste their time posting on a a basque mongoloiding forum and those posting here don't have time to actually do anything.
But beside snark comments, it seems like 4Chan died a bit more, again, I also see this at other generals that I'm visiting, we don't seem to get any new recruits anymore and us old hags… err oldfags maybe nowadays have other things to do, besides posting here.
Speaking of those other things:
The wife needed a sharpener for her chalk, for sewing.
Lessons learned:
>Don't trust stupid "make this fantastic thing in ten easy steps!" guides from the internet, aimed at folks who never /diy/ anything, besides their one branch they do (sewing in this case). It's gonna look like ass if you follow the instructions and it won't be easy.
>putting like 70 razor blades on a threaded rod sucks and takes forever, but i was trusting the first point. Should have gotten a non-threaded rod and a thread cutter, always wanted to have one of those
>my miter saw needs adjusting and it wobbles
>I'm too stupid to remember if I have to add my blade thickness, when measuring my cuts
>my freehand routing sucks ass
But all in all:
7/10
wife's happy and the result looks much better than the shit from the instructios I started with and I learned a thing or two.

>>2990889
>people who post on board/thread X don't actually do activity X
a tale as old as 4chan itself
anyway good job, looks like some homemade capacitor ready to explode

File: 20260515_131409.jpg (1.8 MB)

>>2990228 here
after some work and injury i managed to take the nailed piece of wood off. pic rel is what was under it. i looked up some rabbet planes online and they seem to have a butterfly nut on top, with the bolt probably holding the front
i don't wanna just glue something in there, it feels like a hackjob, but honestly have no idea how should i even start on this

>>2990998
if you want to learn you want to learn, but you can get a new one of these for like $35

>>2990998
Use glue, chisels, sand, and the blade you have shown. The wood isn't going to work itself.

File: IMG_0597.jpg (2.9 MB)

finished, it may need some soft rubber stuff against slipping, does anyone know a rubber tape that sticks to wood?

>>2990889
looks pretty good but also kinda dangerous

> if I have to add my blade thickness, when measuring my cuts
Not sure but I think you should always measure and mark the exact length you want, and only adjust when it’s on the saw.

>>2991100
if you used an oil based finish forget about tape ever sticking, you'll need to attach some physical way

>>2991100
Weather strip and finish nails or double stick would work in a pinch.

>>2991100
felt or leather + brass upholstery tacks, can even put a little strip of foam or whatever underneath as a cushion

First time poster in /wwg/, ex carpenter here. How do you guys join your picture frame corners? I am just going to join it (with glue) then drill wooden dowls through each corner and cut them off flush

Finally starting to build up my workshop with all the necessary furnishing equipment. Feels good man

>>2991109
>>2991113
>>2991130
thanks for the tips anons, ordered some leather and I’ll use the upholstery tacks

>>2991155
hell yeah what kind of leather did you get?

>>2991154
v nailer, staple, or spline.
I quoted a pro 700 for a 10' cyclorama and they beat around they bush. It wouldn't have been worth dragging that stuff up the stairs for less than 2 grand.

File: 1778255008174751.png (1.1 MB)

>>2991023
>>2991070
allrighty then

File: 20260518_145230.jpg (1.9 MB)

Listen here holes, you will be plugged.

File: eva_2025_Ecomm_TBF_PDP.jpg (130.8 KB)

sturdy bedframe

so I'm going to build a bed frame something like this except I'm using big pieces of ply instead of slats
still have centre channel support
sturdier feet
glue instead of metal screws (it's never coming apart)

but I can't figure out how to attach the headboard in a way that is super sturdy? basically shit gets crazy in the bedroom and we can't have any flex or movement.no creaking whatsoever. sparing the details of my construction I was thinking of a frame of oak, ply panels in the middle, ply oak headboard(routed)

not new to woodwork but limited tools in this shop
circ saw, plunge router, drill, enough money to buy maybe one more skin? mitre saw is no longer a tool I have access to

>>2991524
I tried to do one of these, but all I needed was a jigsaw. We were going to use 5/16x4.5" Spax lags to drill the headboard into stud, but it gets really wild in our bedroom. Since we'd already mortised the headboard into the frame and cut out the baseboard, we just gorilla glued it flush to the drywall.

>>2991528
brick house and while a built in panel would look nice it's not feasible. maybe I should just not have a headboard but It gets cold in my area

>>2991530
You could construction adhesive the frame to the floor, but that's a yucky polyurethane blend. Command strips or double stick tape will also do a really good job.

File: y.jpg (101.3 KB)

why do tail vises often have this gap when closed?

>>2991524
>wood
>no flex or movement

File: IMG_1021.jpg (3.5 MB)

Built a shed last summer, treated the cladding with sikagard wood preserver. This is the result, mold penetrating right through some boards. Is there any way to treat this? Can I just paint over it or do I need to replace the effected boards? If so should I just paint it next time?

>>2991649
is it insulated from the inside? is there some excessive humidity inside the shed, or are those perpetually damp or something?

>>2991665
No insulation, well ventilated. I am in England so we've had a decent amount of rainfall and only one side get's any sunlight for half the day due this being in a garden corner.

>>2991668
so this is the perma shaded one?
honestly i dunno. i have a shed i built 5+ years ago using osb board and there's zero rot even on the perma shaded parts. the stuff in your pic is something i always see on pallet wood that had plastic bags sit on it for some time, it always gets mold like this. wood too fresh/too damp?
i'd try to sand it down a bit first and wait a month to see what happens. wear a respirator

>>2991622
That's not that part you generally clamp stuff with. That extension is to hold the back frame bar.

File: wood meme.jpg (8.2 KB)

>>2991685
seems like a waste of space

>>2989752
if no mold but damp youre ok as long as dries soon.

>>2990316
kek.

>>2990807
>sanding block
cut a piece of plywood the width of belt sander belt and long enough to fit inside belt to keep it tight. Sand away.

File: Compress_20260520_124302_2628.jpg (158.4 KB)

Dear diary, I am making a shelf for my daughter. Here is one of the brackets about to be traced and then sent to the scroll saw. I had google gemini generate a template based off of a picture, then I plugged the dimensions into microsoft publisher to print. This is my first project that isn't pine. It's poplar (pretty much pine) because I'm poor and dont trust myself not to fuck it up

>>2991807
looks pretty sick though. didn't know publisher was still around, and i'm a swe during the weekday!

>>2991808
Yea they're completely stopping it in October, not sure what Im going to use once it goes away, since youre a SWE (software engineer?), do you have any recommendations for similar programs? Or at least something that I can print things to scale?

>>2991811
not really unfortunately. after i make a few million dollars i plan on hiring a bunch of white americans to develop an open source fusion 360 alternative because fuck autodesk and freecad. until then it's fusion and gimp

>>2989629
Shellac is nice for indoor, lower contact applications. Think bookshelves, nightstands, stuff where you're not risking getting it wet or dirty regularly. Outdoor flooring is basically the worst case scenario for shellac.

>>2989752
I don't know if scammer, but many just pop their head in there without actually checking or some cases knowing what they're looking at. A roofing guy peeked in my atttic and said it had mold and mildew was leaking. It's an older house and there had been leaks over the hundred fourty or so years, but what he was seeing, other than some water stains, were spots like pitch, tar, and lime as much of the boards used for the roof sheathing where recycled material. I had been up there during rainstorm before he had went up there and didn't see any leaks. It did start leaking a few months later from a damage shingle, but i went up and replaced it.

Still need to get the roof done at some point.

>>2991811
If you actually need page layout stuff it's part of adobe and way better than publisher anyway but it's $$.

For office you got to pick somewhere between one note, word, or PowerPoint.

PowerPoint is pretty close. I'm almost surprised they kept.publisher as long as they did, it could have just been features in powerpoint

I have 6 sheets of very old and a bit worn in areas but still usable, 1/4” plywood I’d like to use for something but I’m drawing blanks despite need to do something with the following: two kayaks, a bunch of gardening/yard work equipment, a bunch of lawn chairs, summer related entertainment junk, some hammocks, and swimming floats. Please make my brain work and give me some ideas to unfuck my garage.

File: sad.jpg (481.8 KB)

>someone bought the thing that I wanted to buy to make stuff

File: Screenshot_20260523-163303.png (1.8 MB)

>>2990797
been fist deep in my car the past two weeks. i did cut a needlessly planed piece of cedar while i do my upper motor mount, so this post is /wwg/ appropriate

File: my wack ass shed.jpg (3.7 MB)

I'm going to redo my shed this summer, I bought the property recently and it's always been a shitty crumbling eyesore

The plywood floors are cracking, I've already punched some holes straight through, and it's gotta go. The exterior panels are rotting in parts, and there are no interior walls leaving exposed insulation everywhere. You can see in the picture the setup the previous owners had where they had a step ladder as a permanent fixture to reach the loft above. The loft also makes it super awkward to stand under and my shelving is too tall to fit where it'd be useful. It has power with one light and one outlet, and its own fuse box.

I don't want to do a full teardown, just a refurbish. I want to raise the loft height, replace the floors, and replace the exterior walls. I also want to add plywood interior walls, some built in shelving and a pegboard wall full of hooks. I would add steps to reach the loft, probably short and steep to save space, plus a handrail. Do you think the loft joists look reusable? I imagine the insulation need replaced too, especially if it's exposed to the exterior in parts and probably has gotten wet before. There is a load bearing wall seen in the right of the photo which I would rather replace with a strong column or two since it divides the space in half for no good reason.

Any tips for me? Do inspectors care about small sheds? Is it worth the research to follow the code?

>>2992359
Anon I'm in a similar boat. Floors are good in mine but 4/4 walls are peeling back or rotting out. Whoever built it never raised the 2 side walls to the ceiling so bugs and shit gets in. I've never done woodwork but I have the tools and I'm sure I can get it into better stead than its in now.

>>2992359
after researching what it takes to do it "correctly" I need to:
>call the local permit office and have a conversation about the modifications
>apply for a permit online
>pay a fee based on square footage and have an inspection after construction
>submit a drawing showing the existing configuration and proposed modifications, including lumber type, sizing and specific hardware where required
>install a concrete footing beneath the frost layer under the new column
but for a building of this type no formal engineering is required so long as the joist span is below 12' and no dimension limits apply to the stairs either. I think I could feasibly do all this in like one hour and the only annoying part is the permit fee

File: as built.jpg (169.9 KB)

>>2992359
I went ahead and modeled the current shed layout, seriously wtf is this shit
which one of you did this

1/2

File: as built isometric view.jpg (283.9 KB)

>>2992593
2/2

File: as built isometric view 2.jpg (220.6 KB)

>>2992594
one more angle that really shows how fucked the loft is

>>2989558
I just got some chisels. I've got a good knife i can use until I get a sloyd and a spoon knife. Looking for a draw knife and a spoke shave. In the process of making a shave horse. Gonna start making spoons.

>>2990228
fix the crack, cut the nose off and wala, you have a double iron bullnose version for 5% the new price

File: new design.jpg (259.0 KB)

>>2992595
this is my design for the new layout. 2x6 joists with 2x4 blocking. replaced the step ladder with a ships ladder, didn't model the steps but it's 8 inch rise and 70 degree tilt. replaced the half wall with one post and a footing for it. once built I'll start to think about where I want shelving but I'll be happy with all the new head room on the ground floor. as is it's not all that useful for storage above or below

File: ya.jpg (114.8 KB)

what are all the little blackish spots on this beech workbench top?

File: rhinospoon.jpg (42.3 KB)

>>2992593
>>2992594
>>2992595
these images give me a headache

>>2992598
good on ya bud

>>2992975
character
bench probably got a bit moldy before being finished
even if the mold was killed it leaves stains

anyone know whats a good assortment of chissel sizes?

>>2992993
i get by with 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", and 1"

I always have one or two chisels that are going to do jobs I don't expect them to come back from.

>>2993055
that's what i keep a home depot stanley set for

>>2992993
i get by with 8mm, 12mm, 18mm and 24mm

>>2993121
ended up buying a set, similar sizes to >>2992999
6,10,12,16,20,26
why? 6 for the price of 4,5 is hard to argue with

>>2993140
nice, it's great for mortising. the easy part is over!

>>2993064
I'll note that you can get DeWalt chisels there for only a bit more ($10-11 ea vs $5)that have Sheffield-made blades and metal pommel strike caps. Still a massive bargain compared to $50+ per tools like Narex or Two Cherries.

File: IMG_0848.jpg (137.7 KB)

I want to build a tiki bar. What type of wood is the large round pieces in this picture? Is this something I can get at a lumber yard or is it special order/milled.

>>2993192
eh, they're the beater set. if i upgrade i won't want to use them for car and yard work

>>2993192
>$50+ per tools like Narex or Two Cherries.
Jesus christ the tarrifs raped you hard. I bought mhg at 13€ per piece

File: Screenshot_20260529-000240.png (746.6 KB)

>>2993239

File: pole-lathe2-500x500.jpg (66.6 KB)

>>2993207
some lumber stores carry round post but wouldn't be surprised either way
look up a pole lathe, you need one sawhorse a shaft and a rope. you can make any square post round

>>2993244
Depends on which line you're looking at, too. A set of five Richters in a nice wood box is $250, while four loose PROFI are $70, both at Woodcraft.

>>2993256
>250$
Insanity, these are just generic CV steel

File: 3653463565346354.jpg (78.2 KB)

anyone here actually using a saw till? what design do you like / hate
seems like a quick project that will help me declutter

How often should you change out/sharpen your table saw? I have a 10" from over a decade ago, I've only recently started to really doing wood working and I'm still using the original saw.

>>2993537
When I need very clean cuts or if I'm ripping a lot. Finish blades cut slower and make more dust. Really thin veneers will chatter unless you cater to them. Sometimes I just don't want to sand dull burn marks off of hardwood. Having to push harder when feeding material into a dull saw is also a factor because it's harder on the motor and less safe.

File: il_fullxfull.6373960343_3wbd[1].jpg (307.9 KB)

>>2993508
I hang them by the handles on a length of thick wooden dowel. Kind of like this but longer dowels and much less of a angle on the dowel. I have a shitton of hand saws though. Anytime I see a Disston in decent shape going for cheap (<$5) I buy it. I have a lot of duplicates so it makes it easier to stack up the different types.

>>2993537
Switch blades to the appropriate blade for the task. Ripping blades are usually 24 tooth, crosscut are 60-80. The standard blades that come with most saws are around 40-something tooth and are really meant for general construction use.

Cleaning is needed more often than sharpening, as pitch can build up. There are specialized kits for it, but all you really need is a Home Depot style 5 gal bucket's lid, simple green, and a decent brush.

Get it sharpened when even with cleaning cuts feel slower and worse than they should, especially if you're getting burning.

File: Screenshot_20260530-214135.png (317.0 KB)

>>2993537
i switched from simple green to a purpose blade cleaner. simple green was fine but it does strip off oil so you'll need to lube after. trend's stuff cuts through pitch well and lubricates in one go. get a bucket lid and a roll of cheap toothbrushes. generally every 2 months or whenever i notice pitch building up on a bit or blade

>>2993550
as of now i hang them on nails but that is ass for long ones or pistol grips

>>2993247
no need to fuck with a complicated premodern tool that you also have to build when you can just use a planer and round a beam without issue.

are castle joints a meme in terms of durability? I hear they're prone to exploding? what should I use instead to build a bed frame

File: Bed Frame 1.png (233.9 KB)

I want to build a bed frame that I can add a headboard & side-tables to, starting with the platform itself. But I'm not used to projects this big and I don't want to waste money on costly mistakes along the way.
Any tips/opinions on my design?

File: Bed Frame 2.png (425.7 KB)

>>2993834

>>2993835
this looks like it could withstand a nuclear blast
in other words, my type of design

>>2993835
you could probably do without 50% of the wood (slats and legs) unless youre 600 lbs

File: 37634754367547654.png (3.0 MB)

>>2993825
>what should I use instead to build a bed frame
antiques used metal hooks for propably almost a century, thats also how mine was constructed from the local cabinet maker. These hooks are apparently still sold new and salvaged.
If youre not a meme purist this is propably the way to go, bullet proof and easily taken apart for transport

i made a few simple cutting boards and now i'm honestly terrified when i think about selling them.
interacting with a customer is the last thing i wanna do. knowing my luck every single cutting board is gonna warp or something and everyone's gonna complain.

>>2993834
Is that 12" tall? I'd just stack 16 sheets of decking and staple it all together. It will be sturdier.

>>2993825
They're stronger than most perfectly fine bed joints, where did you hear that they "explode? It's two full thickness boards cross-jointed inside a post.

>>2993859
See if you can find a store that sells consignment products.

>>2993834
Lose 2 purple supports, slats should only be supported on the sides and center on a 2p so that they can bend and make the bed feel softer, like this it would be like a mattress on the floor. They look very thick too, and too many.

You can save 50 metal brackets by making the green/blue supports longer and put them inside the brown/purple ones, it’ll be stronger too, and remove about 6 of them

Finally I would say the mattress should go deeper to prevent it from moving around

>>2993835
Why are there so many legs? The inside ones will break your back and the outside ones all add chances your bed will be unstable

>>2993835
are you 700 pound by chance

File: me later this week.gif (594.2 KB)

I'm getting a workbench later this week, please clap

File: 10d1d21d-a774-46ff-b7d1-9f6787e436a1.49f1febbbcc1d7e2ac03bd5424a5e28c[1].jpg (93.0 KB)

>>2993962
>getting a workbench
If it ain't 'building a workbench', it ain't worth mentioning.

File: plan.jpg (149.8 KB)

>>2993973
I'm incompetent and in this shithole buying 2nd hand is cheaper than buying the wood and I needed the dopamine from spending money. Please respect my decision.

File: Screenshot_20260602-101355.png (2.0 MB)

new planter, currently in the process of getting the 6 coats of tung oil she needs

File: MORE.jpg (4.7 KB)

>>2993978
MORE
MORE PLANTERS

File: IMG_20201007_201151.jpg (418.1 KB)

>>2993979

>>2993977
>Paul Timberman MadTV sketch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ttgkEh7k2g

File: IMG_3083.jpg (92.2 KB)

Anons; help me out here. I'm already checking out the books (and some others, and even a couple videos relevant to the end goal) but I'd rather ask people with experience.

I've got experience with tools and heavy ones too; I worked in construction all through out my teenage years and into my twenties so I'm not a novice to /diy/, but I've never worked with wood before.

I'd like to make something like this with the caveat that it's meant to be kinda heavy duty but also look semi decent. is it doable with rented equipment?

I'm thinking of buying the boards already sized and cleaned; then making the adjustments necessary with a saw and just getting premade legs similar to what the picture has.

The thing is that it has to be solid enough for my real crafting experience (sewing + leatherworking) but also don't look like a full on work table. Am I hopeless and have to compromise on looks? Never done any woodworking but I know about building techniques so it shouldn't be hard to transfer skills, but it's the aesthetics what stumps me.

File: diy-desk-with-a-fake-rustic-finish-using-stain-and-black-v0-m23hfh3c7gb51.jpg (960.7 KB)

>>2994011
I'm thinking of a sturdier hardwood rather than pine or similar; with a simple stain to keep the aesthetics without having to either work too hard or compromise the firmness.

That said, what I'm having doubts with is... Would the premade legs work fine or are there any specific type you'd recommend?

The size is also the issue; I can't find any big enough for the project I have in mind so I'd have to join them, I have some basic conncepts already and I've been looking around, I can rent a biscuit joiner and that should help assemble a bunch of smaller sized planks into a solid single surface. Am I wrong there?

Am I ignoring some crucial step? Any advice and bitching at me is more than welcome.

>>2994011
Honestly that's pretty easy, put boards along the walls screwed into the studs, set the panels on top, then use a fastener like a 90 degree bracket or figure 8s and you wont even need the legs. If you're using a couple cabinets like that in the middle it'll be fully supported.

>>2994012
Building a panel is a pretty basic task, but building it straight and flat takes practice, space, and a lot of clamps. Getting it perfect means really precise work with a planer and a table saw at minimum before assembling. Building a really big panel might be a case where everything factored in you might just want to custom order it from a shop that can handle that size, or order some butcher block that's the size you want from Home Depot/Menards/Lowes etc., and cut the specific size you need from there.

File: 61l9rWJEV2L.jpg (88.0 KB)

>>2994023
The issue with the first one is that it has to be thicker than that and I do a lot of hammering and cutting things so I think a softer wood wouldn't do well, right? Plus I'm a bit scared of the gaps under the board with all the hammering and shit.

Again, totally newfag so I might be worrying about the wrong things.

As for the panel... I saw some videos and stuff, figured it should just take getting some boards, putting them together with the biscuit joiner, glue and clamps and letting them rest until stuck then sanding the top.

Is it too hard for a novice? I might also be overestimating my own skills and if you say it's hard it might be. Don't wanna spend time, money and effort for it to be unusable since it is for something that I WILL be using.

>>2994028
What do you plan to do? Why are you planning to use a desk as a workbench?

The boards need to be flat and square and evenly thicknessed or it's going to be a lot of work truing it up after it's together. Doing that requires equipment that's going to be a bigger investment, at least a good table saw and planer. And doing it with hand tools can cost just as much.

File: Standing-Desk-Sewing-Studio.jpg (1.3 MB)

>>2994034
Hard to really explain but part of the design process means I work with my computer, printer & other tech next to the sewing machines & dyes, hammering, etc.

Right now I use two different sized tables but even that gets in the way a bit; so I'd like to make one long, sturdy desk so I can both do the design work and the actual work side by side without having to move around too much and making the most use possible of my working area.

The lumber I'm buying my wood from offers free planning, I thought thats what helps make them flat and square so I was thinking of using that...

>>2993140
i raped a sharpal diamond plate flattening just 6 of these, man diamond is really trash

File: laff.gif (319.9 KB)

>>2994188
Buy a new diamond plate to flatten your current plate. Then buy another to flatten the new diamond plate when that becomes uneven.

>>2994196
i just wish there was something 120 grid that would stay flat and sharp. How do botique makers polish their shit up while still making a profit

File: 26317-B[1].jpg (92.7 KB)

>>2994322
Why are you using such an aggressive grit for a stone? Use a sanding belt for that stuff and use stones for the higher grit passes.

>>2994327
every new tool ive ever bought had the backside ground to ~60 grit on a large rotary grinder, propably freehand and never dressed, all wonky and wavy. why should i torment myself not starting with the lowest grit available?
Belt grinder for 'preping the back seems like a recipe for disaster, i mean machine grinding is the reason all these backs come shit out of the factory with rounded sections and hollows/hills all over

File: 6293-A[1].jpg (16.3 KB)

>>2994332
>every new tool ive ever bought
Which is why I posted an American Made Rockwell Delta sander from the 1960s. I have one. They are solid little machines. If you really want to do it right you get picture related. When the world ends the only things left will be cockroaches, politicians, and American made shop tools.

Meanwhile, I don't buy shitty chisels. My 'cheap' chisels are a couple of sets of Stanley No. 80s that I have put together from yard sales and such. There are millions of them out there and they are time tested. My 'expensive' chisels are pieced together sets of wooden handled, socketed chisels. Some of them were hand forged. They outlasted their original owners and will likely outlast me.

>>2994322
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/collections/tormek/products/tormek-t8

>>2994332
>why
so you don't fuck up stones

File: ya.gif (124.6 KB)

>wooden drawer has a lot of friction
>hammered the nails that were sticking out slightly
>applied paraffin to the slides and glued up a crack
>smooth as butter now

anons i might come into a possesion of old parquet flooring. smmall wood pieces, approx 2cmx10cm, about 1cm thick. i thought about making a table out of them, by gluing the pieces onto a plywood base. does this sound like a good/reasonable idea?
i'm also wondering how should i seal/protect it from moisture. some dude threw a very wet rag on the parquet and the next day the part under the rag has buckled, and i'd rather not have the table buckle or something just because someone spilled a drink on it

>>2994493
Why not glue them to eachother? You do have 150 clamps, right?

tips for building a router table? basically a jig for a corded router that I can bolt in and use as a table?

>>2994538
- get a router table insert to screw your router base in to
- put the biggest paddle switch you can find on the front of the table so you can turn it off with your hip

File: Screenshot_20260606-235049.png (2.1 MB)

>>2994538
same anon as >>2994584, finally home. this is in my mind the bare minimum. i rarely use the fence, when i have a project that needs it i'll upgrade it, but generally my routing is all bearing guided and dust collection attaches to the fence. can't stress enough a quick way to turn the router off when your hands are full, super useful just being able to bump it

(�/�#�v�EW�
�how canjaw? Iutsgotangles �kL��)�Y"h�>~��M&Ȣ#�bNs[V�

(�/�#�v�E��
X<94cuke,ti.��~��#6�����S�a�K����w�;�g$

(�/�#�v�EmU
x<94822soerdown? ��hP�Gn�l� �
���
��wZA�S

(�/�#�v�E��s%�����Z���s�D������hd�q��[ ���(��{c&Y�O �r.Wq3�6�w�x����KV��e
�؝���@a��q�

(�/�#�v�E[
`<94825p, ldo���Ǝ���2�)���wZ��M

File: bed.png (221.7 KB)

(�/�c�v�E)=S�%����ީ��e��O3����h<3�s�v�l���nڟ�"��������M��L�9y��8�~�&��3��W׋��Mj,lѪ��Nz�ϟ�d �@�H�
ƽ�X���L�j)}R1�9I�y�R���46$<

(�/�#�v�E��
�<94850Pu?? Usecy�\�j�!Z�&�h^������Iʃ�A̸h�I{��2q>

(�/�#�v�E��
�<94ah uswsioidle joint��A�_$�|�g����u����Zr��Z����S��