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Also that piece of wood that’s attached with L brackets, I put that in myself. I thought maybe it was needed for additional support because originally I wasn’t going to go all the way to where the vent is.

You're not going to be able to match the texture for $70. So put that on the back burner. The installer that can isn't asking any questions.

A sheet of drywall, screws, paper tape, joint compound, and 4" knife get you most of the way.

>>2991253
I’m not concerned with the texture or even paint. I just want to patch the hole up because hot air is coming through it (I live in Arizona).

The hole is about 35x39”. My plan was to cut the drywall slightly wider about 35 1/2” then push it up and slide one side into the gap between the wall and the truss then push the other end up the same way so that both sides rest on the wall. That should hold it up in place right? Then I just nail it to the trusses. Is that going to work or do I need some kind of a contraption to hold it up? Pls advise.

Also I don’t know if I maybe should take down more of the old drywall because it’s crumbling around the vent. Then again I have no idea how it’s installed around the vent and I probably wouldn’t be able to cut it properly for the hole because I only have a hand saw. Maybe just patch the area around the vent with some joint compound? Lastly, the original drywall was nailed but should I use screws instead?

If the roof is still leaking, drywall isn't going to last long at all. Otherwise, you just cut the new patch slightly smaller and let the paper tape and compound work the transitions. Screws, nails, or pl400 all work. Anybody can hang rock.

>>2991264
The roof has been patched up with tarp and isn't leaking anymore. Should I get this to hold the drywall in place while i'm hammering in the nails? I dunno how else it's gonna stay in place.
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-1-support-cargo-bar-66172.html

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>>2991251
Hey I gotchu man. Please don't let your mom call the methhead... there are no trusses in either of your pics so he's trying to scam you. First measure the drywall thickness, 1/2 or 5/8 is typical, then get your drywall. Shouldn't be more than $17. You mentioned it is crumbling around the vent, make sure you clean up ALL of the loose paper and gypsum with a scraper, mud knife, chisel, high grit sandpaper or whatever you got. Just make sure there is nothing loose still there. Then cut your drywall 1/8" SHORT ( do not cut it long as you mentioned) on all sides. You can then install it by first screwing in a wood pice to the joist bordering the wall (horizontal wood framing member, I repeat it is not a truss). Reference pic rel, you are patching a small piece so ignore the "dont" clickbait

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>>2991251
Grab your screwdriver and drywall screws. Make sure they are coarse thread (pic rel) and not fine thread which are for steel studs. Use at least 1 5/8". Hold up your patch and slot it into the holder board you just put up. Make sure there is an equal gap around all 4 sides of the patch.

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>>2991251
You will probably need to hold the patch with one hand and both the screw and driver with the other (very hard) or use some temporary duct tape. Once you get the patch slotted into place and fitted tape the other side to the ceiling temporarily. Then screw the patch into the joists (horizontal wood members), and make sure you follow pic rel for proper screw depth. This is critical for the durability of the patch. Then remove the tape and the holder board you put up earlier. According to the goal of the repair your posts have scoped you are now done.

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>>2991251
If you then want to complete the patch, get a 6" drywall knife, and you will probably also need an interior corner knife. Get them from the drywall aisle not the paint aisle of your hardware store. Also get pic rel (least amount of drywall mud you can buy, since your on a budget). This is also in the drywall aisle and not the paint aisle. Don't use spackle. You will also need regular paper drywall tape. Watch this guy's videos (1 through 3) then just do what he says (except for the mixing different mud parts, since you got the pre mix patch kit cuz budget). To texture the ceiling get a 1/2 nap paint roller then just kinda dab it on the ceiling in random orientations until it blends in. Then paint. Can't help you past that. Good luck OP!

>>2991302
Oops forgot vid: https://youtu.be/EASP7bIkk0k?si=fst1_L7XvT8rNLGC

>>2991251
Ok upon closer inspection there are trusses in your picture, but they should not require jacked up as they don't appear damaged (trusses are self supporting). Just make sure you kill all the mold on the wood before you do the patch, and get an exhaust fan in there ASAP to prevent further issues (although the dry Arizona air works in your favor)

>>2991297
hey bro. this is really helpful, i can see that you know what you're talking about
however in the meantime my mom actually had the meth guy come over to show me what he meant and i believe that he might be onto something. i also don't think he wants our money because he owes us for us letting him sleep on our couch for a month.
in that dark spot on the roof in the OP picture, that's where most of the water damage is located and apparently it has caused the roof to sag. he showed me outside that the tiles on the roof in that spot curve inwards, so yeah it definitely sags. he thinks it's a bad idea to put in drywall now with that part of the roof sagging. he's gone now and i didn't really ask him why, i'm just assuming it might make the ceiling crack?
anyways he said that he can come over some other time and help me fix it, he said he'll use a floor jack to prop the roof upwards then we put a 2x4 between the truss and that piece of wood, or something like that.
after that i'm going to use your guide to put in the drywall, because you laid it pretty clearly to me. thanks bro.

>>2991312
looks like the roof sheathing is fucked
that board need to be replaced, not jacked up, replacing it would happen from the outside.
guessing you don't have money for roof repairs right now
the only reason to keep the hole open would be if there's a lot of moisture still up there you are trying to dry out

>>2991251
lets start from the beginning - why is your mom banging a meth head?

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>>2991251
Did you fix the leak?

It looks like sun light coming through in picture 1.

Also, why not just screw that wood with the braces to the existing wood. As it is in the picture you are going to have an unsupported end.

If the roof isn't finished, don't do anything inside yet.... who the fuck knows what will happen and you won't see any continued leaking
Go fix the roof, cosmetic shit inside can wait permanently.....

That piece of chipboard needs replacing
If wood is sagging its rotten and needs replacing/sistering up...

>>2991252
Why didn't you sister that to the existing cross brace (next to the vent)?
And I'd suggest cutting a new piece that has a snug fit between the rafters. The two pieces (existing brace and your added piece) should not move relative to each other. Or your taoe and mud job will crack. Those brackets will loosen up over time (dab of construction adhesive would be good).

>>2992666
>It looks like sun light coming through in picture 1.
Looks like a soffit vent. Which should be OK. If OP makes sure it is under an overhang and screened so as not to make attic a condominium for squirrels.

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That vent will look messy unless you put it in the middle of the new panel. I would cut back to the green line and just use one large panel to fill the ceiling. If you use the first two trimmers (the pieces of wood the vent is mounted to) Then your new piece of drywall will be ugly because you're trimming the edge. So cut back the ceiling all the way to the middle of the third trimmer and cut yourself a piece of drywall that will fill the space. Then put wet paint or something on the vent and use that to mark the position on the new drywall.