>>65081829
>rear trunnion
You'll be fine as long as the welds didn't warp the reciever and in turn warp the rails.

I would rivet it properly. The recoil is perpendicular to what little of that weld penetrated so I'd expect it to crack. Rivets are for resisting shear force which is why they're used there

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>>65081829
dont worry about it. itll either break or it wont. no risk of injury either since all of the recoil energy is going into the stock. just dont shoot it like picrel, then it may fly out

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>>65081867
>no risk of injury either since all of the recoil energy is going into the stock
Hey dunning kruger, that's the thing that stops the bolt from flying out the back of the gun

>>65081829
>get ak parts kit
>make khyber pass larp gun
Noice.

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>>65081829
Side view, I guess he just filled the holes? But I get the feeling that's going to snap inside

>>65081911
I think the receiver can be saved and redrilled but I wouldn't trust his welds

>>65081829
I have had a badly welded AK parts kit snap in half during firing. It kept firing. I wouldn't worry about it.

>>65081829
Kill you? Like a 2/10
It might poke your eye out, but the worst case scenario is it shears while the bolt is halfway back, and the bolt makes intimate contact with your face at some speed. Not pleasant, but probably also not fatal levels of energy, it might poke your eye out though (but that's why we wear safety glasses).
The thing is absolutely gonna crack at some point and the bolt will probably go flying, but unless you actually check the penetration of the welds properly when that will happen is an "iunno". Could be within the first hundred rounds, could be way far off in the future.

>>65081911
Just grind flush, locate the correct hole locations and rivet it. It’ll be fine.

>>65081911
if you can drill the welds out and hammer new rivets in, you can't see it from my house.
The wipepo thing to do would be to cut the trunnion out, grind off the welds. put it on a new receiver with rivets, and make it the way Mikhail Kalashnikov intended but I honestly doubt those welds are ever going to catastrophically fail, if they do, the stock will be wobbly, and you can drill it out and make it right.

So what do you need to make an ak? Aka build one.

>>65081979
Before this happens, your stock's going to be like oh hey my stocks fucking wobbly i better stop shooting it or something bad's gonna happen to my face. One of the two welds is going to fail, not both at the same time.

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>>65082159
Demilled kit
Receiver for ur specific kit, flat or folded 80%
Hammer, rivet smasher, harbor freight 20 ton press, go/no go head space gauge
some other shit i am forgetting.

>>65082159
you get a demil kit with a torched barrel and receiver, parts in bags.
First thing you have to do is remove all of the parts from the barrel and all of the parts from the receiver. You have to grind the heads off of the rivets and force them out somehow, which usually includes drilling them out. Everything is pinned to the barrel, you have to tap the pins out with a hammer and save everything you can. except the rivets, those get replaced.
You'd need probably a new receiver which will be drilled and then you have to divot and rivet the front/rear trunnions in. All the models are different, and theres a bunch of different receivers, especially Yugos.
Do not buy a milled kit unless you really have money to blow on a milled receiver and barrel.
The receiver you buy will be heat treated and have the welded rails already on it, and the center rivet already installed.
There is a kit you can buy from AK builder or you can pay someone else to do your rivets.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bZc0WywYgA
some of this is using a jig bent receiver and he has to weld the rails onto it but a bought receiver will have all of this done to it but the rivets. iirc they dont sell 80% or flats anymore. I think 3-5 explain the whole process but jewtube took down video #1

>>65082159
It depends on your budget, as previously suggested people tend to opt for demilled parts kits because they're the cheapest but they're the most labor intensive, you can find parts kits that don't have the barrel or receiver at all which is what I usually do, however that requires you to buy a barrel as well, and that in of itself can also vary in expense and labor as you can get pre drilled and tapped barrels for a slightly higher price, or a naked barrel that will require you to drill holes. I'd recommend just a ton of YouTube research and shopping around, and for your first kit I would recommend just sticking to a pre drilled barrel and a pre built receiver, it'll run up about and additional $300 however it'll save you from having to buy multiple jigs, heat treatment, and a drill press (mind you a fully built receiver has to be transferred via FFL so be aware of your local laws regarding that.)
You'll need a 12-ton hydraulic press, about $100 at harbor freight, this is to seat the barrel in the trunnion(pro tip, use Penny's as a spacer between the press and barrel or you'll damage the shit out of the barrel), in addition I recommend a set of bolt cutters and a harbor freight rivet press that replaces the cutting head for the bolt cutters, it's a lot less effort and a lot cleaner than hammering them in.
Also a MUST have that you absolutely cannot skip is go & no go gauges for your caliber, this helps you get the proper head spacing when seating barrel and front trunnion, if you skip this step especially on your first build you will 100% blow up your gun the first time you shoot it.
It sounds daunting and requires at least a couple days of work before you get the hang of it, but it's honestly pretty easy past that point