Thread #28915585
File: 1772246599274695.jpg (39.7 KB)
39.7 KB JPG
i bought a tinted car a couple of years ago. i noticed a lot of bubbles on rear windshield last year and it has progressively got worse. it makes it harder to see out of rear, but my main gripe is aesthetics. i asked at local shop if they could replace the tint, but the guy was very hesitant to do it because it could damage the heating element
didnt say it directly, but i felt like he didnt want to do it since it would be especially big pain in the ass because rear windshield is sloped at sharp angle and there isnt much space to get there, and in the end he would only have 1 window to charge
maybe i got it wrong and he was giving me honest opinion knowing replacing it would ruin the heating element. someone else might've just agreed to do it. i wouldnt even find about in the next 6-7 months when winter comes) anyway
i searched online for removal techniques, would it be a bad idea to wait for hotter temperatures and try the trashbag and soapy watter method myself? my biggest fear is there will be a ton of residue glue that will
>ruin the defroster if attempted to remove
>prevent a good application of a new tint, so ill end up in same place couple of years down the road
14 RepliesView Thread
Showing all 14 replies.>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
he's right that there's a rush of damaging the heating element, and he's also right that it would be a pain in the ass for regular pricing, and he's also wrong for not just manning up and telling you "this one particular kind of job sucks and I don't want to do it, but I'll do it for X"
>>
File: 62615550.jpg (542.1 KB)
542.1 KB JPG
I did window film for a living OP.
Yes, it can damage the defroster. 90% chance a couple traces will be killed at minimum. Pay special care at the base where it starts so you dont lose functionality of the entire thing.
Yes the black bag with soapy water in the sun (usually) works. The film is porous and the water/soap/heat reactivates the adhesive
Use a scotch Brite pad like for dishes to get the remaining glue off, with a shitload of soapy water on a hot day.
The older the tint, the greater the chance the glue will be hardened and take more time to remove.
If you have to use a razor blade, buy stainless blades. Carbon blades will scratch the glass (you still have to be careful with stainless) use lots of soapy water to prevent scratches. But if you have to resort to that there will be no functioning defroster.
>>
>>28915684
because tint already has so many bubbles and where i live, it is not unusual to have 95-100f temperature in summer, im very confident it would come off fairly simply after couple hours of peak sunlight using the bag and soapy water trick
even though i have never done it, it seems pretty straightforward and easy to do. i would take my time, no problem if it takes me a whole day. i feel like if i go to a random tint shop they would just blast it with heat gun and not care if defroster gets damaged in the process. at least this guy was honest about it, next guy might not be
how important is to have a completely clean window before installing the new tint? would it cause problems down the line if there is some glue remaining and new tint was put over it? i feel like there is a bigger chance i would ruin the defroster by removing the glue with scotchbrite than by pealing the tint
would using the rubbing alcohol help?
>>
>>28915585
>the guy was very hesitant to do it because it could damage the heating element
yeah no shit he didn't want to take a big risk for a job that won't even pay that well.
you can remove it but you need the right tools, which he likelydoesnt have
>>
>>28915704
Rubbing alcohol never hurts glass, I'd personally be pretty anal about how clean and particularly how smooth the surface was before applying a new tint. Uneven surfaces will trap air and either crease or bubble over time
>>
>>28915704
>how important is to have a completely clean window before installing the new tint? would it cause problems down the line if there is some glue remaining and new tint was put over it?
A 1/2" long piece of hair that fell off your arm while doing the install will be visible in the tint (I shaved my arms damn near daily when I was at that job). A piece of dust will be visible.
Glue will be a giant Fuck You And Your Shitty Ass Driveway Tint Job sign that ill be able to see from my house. And more than likely installer will tear the tint when they try to squeegee the water out when they run a flat edge over it.
Installer will clean the glass with scotch Brite beforehand. Just be sure to let them know you just removed tint
Different brands have different glue formulas. Rubbing alcohol might help, might do nothing. Try dawn dish soap first.
When you pull the tint it "lifts" the traces, thats what breaks them, even if you cant see the break. Scrubbing with scotch Brite is safer because youre basically just pressing down on them.
Lay a towel across the package shelf (thats what the area between the back seat and window is called) and fill up your squirt bottle as many times as needed. Have a bucket of soapy wayer for the scotch Brite pad. If you think youre using too much soapy water, use more.
>>
>>
>>28915731
got it. would you say is there a safest direction in which to peal the tint or it doesnt matter? same thing for cleaning residue with scotchbrite? side to side or up and down? circular?
>>28915745
>who cares
lol, with my luck the next winter would be coldest in 100 years, there would be 3 months of snow and rear view camera would stop working
>also why don't these retards put the heating element between the two pane of glass.
im 100% with you here. probably because this ghetto ass solution with wires is much much cheaper
>>
>>
File: steamin.jpg (120.6 KB)
120.6 KB JPG
>>28915585
Use a steamer and soapy water to try and peel it. I got lazy and did the razor blade thing once, ended up having a broken rear defrost on that car until I sold it.