Thread #11758522
Holding out for a Zero edition
>JAPAN GROUP BUILD IS ONGOING
previous thread: >>11728651
This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin, PE, wood, etc) models kit
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others
Always remember: Debonder removes the jizz on your model without melting the plastic.
Some helpful guides to get started:
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%2 0Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20St ep-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs
http://ipmsstockholm.org/
https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/
http://www.primeportal.net/home.htm
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156268995@N04/albums
Plus there are tons of people on YouTube with pretty good videos on techniques etc.
Some sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:
>ebay
https://www.dersockelshop.de/ (GER)
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)
https://www.alfahobby.se/ (SWE)
http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)
https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)
http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)
http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)
https://www.modellbau-koenig.de/en (GER)
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)
https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)
https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)
http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)
https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/
https://www.super-hobby.com (EU/UK/RU/US/PL)
https://plastmodel.pl/ (PL/EU)
https://agtom.eu/en/(PL/EU)
https://exito.site/en_GB/index(PL/EU)
https://m-zone.pl (PL only)
47 RepliesView Thread
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Getting there with the GT40. I think it'll be a while before I do another car they just don't capture me like the planes do but it's aight. The rear engine compartment of the Fujimi kit sucks, it doesn't fit. I think the easiest thing to do is just to assemble the body and glue the rest in place to fit best as possible but we'll see
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He cute
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3rd for revell is ok sometimes
almost done with this bf 110 i cant wait to move on
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anyone made the SCUD from trumpeter? got the chassis done years ago and restarted recently, working on the cab now.
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>>11758867
not yet, but its in the stash. baby bereg is pretty close tho. Make sure to test fit how the cab fits into the chassis, it's a pain in the ass since you cant see where the fit issues are. I had to trim those front hooks extensively.
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Grabbed a few AK acrylic markers at a show recently, they are quite good for bullshit like cockpits or pioneer tools and do well without priming. I wouldn't do a whole model in them but for kids or people not in a position to easily airbrush, not absolutely terrible under some weathering.
Which begs the question, because its AK, what are they really for a fraction of the price.
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To the anon from the last thread that recognized the chassis for the RA2 Tesla tank
I hate how much everything fits together, the turret ring for the M42 is slightly bigger than the turret base for the Tesla coils
A conversion to make it into the render-accurate version is dangerously easy
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Wake up babe, new Mr. Surfacer.
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beginner here, got a 3m 6200 mask some 6001cn filters with a 3m 5n11cn pre fitter, when spraying my tamiya paint i could smell it, is the pre fitter i'm using wrong perhaps? or what other factors could be the case here
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i'm trying to get into this hobby but it honestly fucking sucks, the gx100 paint and tamiya mr tool airbrush cleaner have fumes so strong that i'm feeling dizzy the second i open the fucking pot, and yes I have a ventilator airbrush box AND a half mask with vapour filter, doesn't seem to block it
mr tool cleaner also seems to have melted all of the rubber o-rings in my $150 made in germany airbrush, so now I have to drop even more money buying a replacement
and the thing I was spraying? I was trying to de-tack the masking tape but it has still ripped up a shit ton of lacquer from last week's spraying
so im sitting here with a couple hundred bucks of half broken tools and half broken lungs - what the fuck is this shit? are you guys all insane or something?
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>>11760862
switch to acrylics
buy a replacement o-ring
peeling paint happens because there was no primer or left over mold release on the plastic
You made mistakes that have simple fixes and learned something for future builds. Yea it's frustrating and I could see taking a day or two off from building, but anything worth doing is going to have a learning curve. I'm pretty sure every single thing I've built, designed, studied, learned or done has involved a series of at least minor fuckups along the way.
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>>11760862
>half mask with vapour filter, doesn't seem to block it
If it doesn't block it then you have no vapor filter, just a particle one. In EU the organic solvent filter is indicated by a brown stripe. In burgerland they probably use a combination of numbers and body parts along with gang signs to distinguish the different filters so can't help you there.
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>>11760862
yeah the only reason to use lacquers is for priming and varnishing. I typically use mr surfacer in a rattle can and use acrylics for my air brush. as for cleaning your equipment; acrylic thinner, acrylic
air brush cleaner, and water works. lacquer paint is not worth it, and acrylics are way less toxic.
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>>11760862
>are you guys all insane or something?
Of course not. All these happened because mistakes were made somewhere. Yeah there's a learning curve but you can help yourself and take notes and learn from your mistakes.
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>>11761473
>he doesn't keep his first model from childhood around to remind himself how far he's come
ngmi
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>>11761644
I was maybe 5 or 6? I'm not sure why it wasn't painted at the time, maybe my dad didn't trust me with enamel paint. Here's my most recent Hurricane for comparison albeit in 1/48
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>>11761500
soul
>>11762115
soulless
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https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1a7QgBGEud/
>In conclusion, let's summarize the Wheatfield kit. First, its advantages are excellent articulation, with unique movable tracks and suspension. Second, it offers good assembly with a small number of parts, the fewest photo-etched pieces, and is the easiest to assemble in about 12 hours. Then, the disadvantages are: 1. The marching lock is from a post-war version, requiring the interior to be cut out and hollowed out for wartime use. 2. All road wheels and rocker arms lack casting texture, requiring manual application of putty. 3. I dislike the orange peel texture on the turret, and the turret and hull are not from the same version. 4. The gun barrel is split in two for the purpose of selling printed parts, making it difficult to stretch; the barrel should be seamless, and the lack of a plastic muzzle brake and the textured printed parts require sanding. 5. The turret rails are very shallow; I recommend using a 0.8mm drill bit to enlarge the holes, otherwise they are unlikely to glue properly. That's all. Thanks for your support
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Polishin' me plastic. Gave them a few coats of GX yesterday. They're getting a nice shine but the state of my decals are shocking. Giant decals conforming around curves with holes for vents is a fucking nightmare.
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finished the revell bf-110 g-2
didnt enjoy the build very much and it took me much longer than any model ever has. despite this it looks pretty mediocre and I also absolutely half assed the final stretch. cant wait to start on something else
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