/cg/ - Customs General - May we meet again Edition CustomsAnon
05/13/26(Wed)00:30:36
No.
11784861
[Reply]
►
File: CG-Banner_May_2026.png (1.8 MB)
(�/�c��y~@- �ASz�e~��6�af�tKK���y���pG�N�6�{C-"a��a_���Ι�����M��ސ�h�Ia��8-2=,ˇ�f+2ӏXZ�+��yϦ�]��nJ��Mݩᨤ�������o��Hn�M����Z�l�gqI)Y��=��~'�औ>��g4KA���/�ώ�S̱ໄP��j�I'��v�M�Z��7_R�I3�3��y\�u���Ć��a����������NӼഎ\���gy���7������Zwpi����6�t'���2P�Bc%�������1��l��~��*�˴�R�D"+�A��!���� 1;;�I�,��,R=1<"�U�w@�q�I� �8�%��a�u�`4�x�Ms��~^,J_6��u7�� �]�4O����9��<��JԠ��#f�ɻ�7���i&�N+�'�l�T��Xs� �`z��o��+l�k�����L1&����9���nv��z@4���{�DHw�� ���aϘ3��\k�\;0{��C~��(�7��|�djt�y����&\�!tv&������H��-���>#�Ēz���x�{��E�?
���4� g��mh�f��:�מ<�[��@{��XW~��7���� ��V�utM��DSÊ�*&I�t�` �d��$X�~��Ə��xm�[���A�r�Z�iU�����������k�Hޥ-0���J��o�K���!�vs��ϘW�m4�
Showing all 197 replies.
>>
>>11784861
Oh hey, my Arcee made it into OP! Nice. Need to hurry up and paint her...
As mentioned here >>11784705 I'm trying to de-Primaris a McFarlane Marine. Coming along nicely, though I'm gonna have to do quite a bit of sanding and sculpting. Also still waiting on the backpack to print.
Also have the AP Blood Angel coming in soon, will probably do something similar with him.
>>
File: IMG_2602.jpg (826.1 KB)
Did a test-print of the crotch of the commission I’m working on, trying to see how much of the chainmail sculpt actually is visible with SLS PA11, and honestly it worked out better than I expected (wasn’t actually expecting this much detail in the first place). I think it’ll work best to paint the chainmail thong area silver and then doing a flesh-color wash over the centers of the rings, similar to that anon who did that to the Figma Ninja Catwoman’s fishnet parts. I’ll run this by my client and see if he approves or if bigger rings are needed.
>>
File: 20260514_112748.jpg (245.4 KB)
Done the first wheels, made few takes on tank tracks, soon the vehicle may stand on it's own.
Also found new concept art for it, haven't seen it before, it's really low res but it shows how the tank tracks should look like.
>>
>>
File: 20260514_152433.jpg (401.9 KB)
>>11786477
Thanks, it's in 1/12 scale. I made it to fit Tunshi's figs. Tracks should work, all wheels spin and tracks themselves are elastic. I'll see if everything works once I print all the missing parts.
>>
>>
>>11786493
It's all pure FDM, matte PLA and PETG mechanisms inside. Print orientation is what matters the most, i find it better to just make multiple parts instead of a single one that requires supports.
>I always find I get nastiness near where the plate or supports touch parts.
If you have a smooth build plate the parts should be smooth... maybe you need to use isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Drying fillaments solve most of the issues people can have.
>>
>>11786503
It's more like I find bits the layers tend to slightly delaminate and "droop" a bit near the bottom of the print, even with fresh PLA. Probably user error though. Thanks regardless and good luck with the tank!
>>
>>
>PREVIOUS:
>>11757267
>>11784861
Thanks for baking
>>
>>11784861
I am going to be someplace near a mall by a very suburban area with a large Southeast Asian dispora settled in socal that I normally wouldn't visit. It's full of hobby shops and gunpla stores.
I plan to find a decent but inexpensive marker, for lining on ABS plastic, etc. perhaps several if they are inexpensive enough and they have different useful sizes like Sharpies, but what else should I look for that is not going to be at a Michael's, Hobby Lobby/Hobby Town, Lowe's or HD? Or will be noticeably more expensive at those stores.
>>
>>11786386
>>11786490
Still looks pretty impressive, hope you have been taking video of your process to eventually post, as was suggested - I think last winter?
>>
>>
>>11784861
Whoa! my unfinished saber tiger in the OP? That's an honor.
I'm very close to getting the new backpack fitted. Had to go through my parts bin and get some random plastic out, do some sawing, snipping, filing.
>>11786490
hot damn, working treads.
>>
>>11789881
>>11786900
...nigga... you are indeed blind
>>
File: 20260518_214419.jpg (719.3 KB)
>>11789045
> hope you have been taking video of your process to eventually post, as was suggested
I haven't yet, I may do it when I do the final version. Now I'm just learning Blender and 3D printing. I doubt people would want to watch my crude Blender modelling lol.
>>11789883
>hot damn, working treads.
Just finished all the top wheels, next week I'm gonna do the rest. In 2 weeks i may get most of the tracks done.
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: IMG_20260518_174059.jpg (586.0 KB)
>>11790718
Not Ben, Felicity Hardy
>>
>>
>>11790726
>>11790694
Jealous
>>
File: IMG_20260518_174227.jpg (504.1 KB)
>>11790735
damn
>>
>>11790726
whoosh
also: modern comics are fucking retarded
>>11790733
Can't speak for experience, but I've never known this stuff to scratch. it's shaky-ball paint so it's pretty durable.
Easiest way to find out, just put it on some plastic, then in a day, try to scratch it with your nail. if it comes off, you need a clear coat (and even that probably won't work if you REALLY dig your nail in, so be gentle)
>>
>>
>>11790746
Actually I let it dry for 24 hours, and then tried moving the leg, and some gold still came off on my thumb
Googles shitty AI says it can take 4 days to fully dry but I don't trust it (it says the charges my company puts on a bill don't exist if you opt out when in fact they don't get removed you just can't see them anymore and at a higher rate, for instance) so I thought I would ask from real people
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>11790694
>>11790726
Are those what they call child-bearing hips?
>>
>>
File: IMG_20260518_174254.jpg (679.8 KB)
>>11791012
yes
>>11791020
i used Whale Works Body, that one thicc as hell Chun Li 3rd Party mold
>>
>>
>>11790733
I don't think I would want that for an entire figure but good to know that's an option to add to a part of a figure - can you report back on your luck and perhaps post the finished project.
And are those the - what - three standard widths available? Three only options available?
Thanks!
>>
>>11791068
I mean, I'm 6900 and I only posted that because I started OPing one of the new GENs when no one else does it, and realize that's the the kinda shit people here want to see. I don't really want to dig through the archive if I can just go back two threads and find something recent I need because I have that recollection? Other than that, who cares?
>>
>>
File: shittyjob.jpg (319.4 KB)
>>11791082
Gold isn't actually shiny reflective, silver is literally painting a mirror on a figure.
Silver I know for a fact takes longer than three days to dry because I used it on a vending machine model on Friday, came back on Monday, and it still smudged when I touched it (which is my fault), but I'm not sure about gold.
There's so many missing spots on that leg I couldn't see with the naked eye but now are super glaring looking at it in this picture holy fuck
>>
>>11791082
>And are those the - what - three standard widths available? Three only options available?
Yes
It's the $8 cheapo set on Amazon
Which means I probably should have expected gold to not work as pictured but silver did so
>>
>>
File: NeedToFixEdges.jpg (116.1 KB)
>>11791780
With my limited use of these, it feels like the first time you use the silver one, it's just perfect, but if you let it dry somewhat, smudge it, and then try and go over it again, it just looks awful, which kinda confirms what you said.
Gold is more forgiving, I've gone over the leg several times whenever I notice I missed a spot and it's really not obvious. Even less so in real life then in these pictures where I notice I need to do the edges of the mask even though I dont even notice that in real life
>>
>>
File: IMG_20260518_173947.jpg (529.1 KB)
>>11791917
the most practical one is sanding really really good the articulations or the parts where the paint could rub
in my case i dyed the figure so i avoid that kind of problems
>>
>>11791997
nice. I've heard a lot of mixed things about dyeing, but yours looks fantastic.
>>11791917
Best I've ever achieved is using INK for the rubbable joint parts, and then just being okay with it not quite matching the paint. Sanding requires you to be able to somehow disassemble the figure, which doesn't seem all that possible for most figures, to me. Maybe a transformer, riddled with screws and pins and mushroom pegs, but other than that?
>>
>>11791917
I have this same issue. I was very disappointed with the "black" romankey cowl body for being only modestly tan, but I don't want to risk fucking the paint job up by darkening her to a more desired shade.
>>
>>
>>11792030
Would anyone here be able to vouch for paints that are labeled ink? Vallejo has 'inks' and I wonder if those would properly stain plastic without building up the layers.. with the trade-off surely being that it's also inherently translucent. like dyeing without having to boil the figure.
>>
>>11791917
>>11792030
Have none of you tried to Dye the entire piece the shade you want? it's quite popular to use Rit Dyemore on figures lately, no paint chipping, just let your figures soak in a pot with the dye and eventually it's ready, no chipping since it's soaked into the plastic
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6SGLFauwyY
>>
>>11791780
Yep looks decent to good
>>11791775
Thanks!
>>11791789
Reality once again for the win
>>
>>11791768
>>11791789
Has anyone attempted to use an Airbrush filled with the ink of these markers? i imagine it would give better results, no?
>>
>>11792085
Dyeing works on only certain plastics, though I forget which ones in particular don’t take to dye well. Also, unless you’re using a white or very lightly colored plastic like beige, the dye only darkens the plastic that shade. Some colors upon colors need only a little dye or else the get too dark. 3D printed Nylon and PLA tend to absorb dye well in my experience.
>>
File: maxresdefault.jpg (168.8 KB)
>>11792305
Aye, i am well aware of this, figured it would work over the entire body if what they sought was something simple like turning everything black, however if you want a different color or perhaps only certain parts to be painted, there is always the way they do in factories, which is risky, since it involves using fire, but it makes sure no paint comes off no matter what, people who do model kits try it and it works quite well, here's how i learned of this method, it is called "Plastic Annealing" i suggest practicing over a bootleg or not expensive figure and to be responsible when using fire or a blowtorch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Rc4LKMHC74
>>
>>11791768
>>11791789
Should have bought the Gundam Maker instead of the cheap one
>>
File: METALLIC ARCYLICS.jpg (3.4 MB)
>>11792176
have some gold and silver metallic acrylic paint I ended up getting on clearance cheaply (Michael's?) maybe 3 years ago that's just sitting somewhere, unopened,
I don't even remember what I paid and it would definitely need a clear coat or something to permanently affix it if I wanted to as a genuine use/solution
I need to find something I don't care about to test it out on - I don't think have anything like >>11791789 to actually work with that needs or would be improved with metallic acrylic paint, I think?
But also need to actually locate where that paint ended up and maybe find (or buy) some brushes. I think all I have on hand are watercolor brushes.
I don't own an Air Brush, sadly.
>>
>>
>>
I have about 18 hours left to tack something onto my last amazon order for free shipping, but the hobby saws there look like shit, or have some worrying reviews about blades being thin and flimsy. is that just how saws are? should I just get better with scoring plastic and breaking it instead of sawing? The only high quality one appears to be tamiya, but that round-ass x-acto-knife-ass handle looks super uncomfortable, no edge alignment.
>>
File: saber.jpg (490.0 KB)
progress update.. this back piece is finally sitting stably, supported in no fewer than FOUR points.
Doesn't look pretty, but I'll do some reshaping, maybe glue on a few parts, and once it's all painted silver, it should look like it's supposed to be that way.
>>
>>11791917
There was a guy named One’s Customs who used to put superglue over painted areas near the joint so it wouldn’t rub off, but you have to be careful that it doesn’t fuse it together. Also a risk that the superglue turns that white frosted color and makes it look ugly
>>
>>
>>11793216
yeah that is not.. something i'd recommend. there are surely more durable clear coatings than that. and anyway that's adding more thickness to what's already added thickness.
>>11793398
you are going so far beyond the necessary here. I salute you.
>>
>>11792756
Read them carefully and try to figure out if they were being used for it's intended use, many of those Apes use them for WOOD, and not just the sticks used for dioramas and the like BUT FULL LENGTH PLANKS
>>
>>11793915
in fairness this one DOES come with a wood saw too.
yeah I just decided on the one with the nicest grip. it might be harder to get it into tight areas with that thicker grip, but having attempted to do complex cutting with a razor saw, I can say for certain I need SOMETHING better.
>>
File: dark saber tiger.jpg (704.6 KB)
>>11792818
aaaand finished. One last coat of black paint AGAIN, and a more thorough clearcoating, and it feels way more durable this time, and looks better. Previously, I went too light with the spray. Was worried about gunking anything up.
Managed to get all the weapons on AND attach the gatling's coilspring to one of the hip posts with a bit of windshield wiper fluid hose, so it spins! ... really intermittently, but that's how it worked on Dark Horn too, so
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: IMG_2493.jpg (1.1 MB)
>>11795055
was super simple thanks to the STL coming in multiple parts.
>>
File: IMG_2503.jpg (264.9 KB)
>>11795057
It was a simple painting process, just a base coat of black spray paint, then masked it up with tape to put on the blue.
I need a airbrush, cause i cant be fucking with spray cans for tiny projects like this.
>>
File: _MG_5256.jpg (721.7 KB)
>>11795058
red and blue versions.
>>
>>11795055
>Dear Mike Bison
>How do you play viderogames with boxing gloves on?
>>11795059
whoa, shiny. I guess if you look too closely it becomes really obvious the wheels are missing, but... that'd be annoying to fix.
>>
>>
Is there any good reason NOT to just get a $3-5 cheapest possible portable UV light thing from some site or store if I am mainly getting it for those MGA 'make it mini-verse' crap things that I am going to be doing just this summer for some craft crap for kids this summer? The MGA things are being donated but things like clean up supplies and other supplies we have to buy ourselves. I don't have kids of my own and my nieces and nephews are all out of state so it's not like something I imagine I will ever re-use.
>>
File: 6b00d74736cd973d74b943ee207ecb5a.png (1.0 MB)
>>11794801
When I see the results for 'acrylic paint' markers that populate on Amazon (or elsewhere, like Walmart) for "Skin Tone" or "flesh tone" - it feels like deceptive people on ebay who put "marvel legends" or "classifieds" and other key words to get people to look at their listings.
I don't think this will look bad on say illustration paper or similar, but you are presumably wanting to apply it to plastic and for permanent results. You probably need to go to someplace like Hobby Lobby and get some suggestions, before just shopping on-line?
>>
>>
>>11795790
The problem with the cheapest UV lights is you're going to run into problems with them not curing fast enough or curing completely. Plus they'll need eye protection from the UV light (I wouldnt even let kids cure stuff themselves desu, I'd have adults man the lights so they cant blind themselves), gloves, masks, toothpicks to poke at the resin with to see if its cured lots of paper towels. You will need to cure any and all resin that spills after it is wiped up with a paper towel, and cure the gloves and disposable tablecoth and anything that touched any resin or ever held resin inside of it, before it is all thrown away. When it's wet, it's hazardous waste and needs to be brought to the hazardous waste disposal center in your area. So better to cure it.
Might wanna watch through this, they go through all the good/bad about these kits instructions and how they would make it safe for kids. The warning pamphlets inside those things are pretty scary, the summer camp might need parents to sign off on resin toys somehow too, since the resin, fumes during wet resin handling and curing, and uv lights involved are either carcinogens or can do permanent damage if mishandled.
https://youtu.be/5P5v6IoS1W4
That said those kits are really fun to do, just be safe.
>>
>>
>>11796120
I've had a couple broken neca gargoyles joints but nothing on TMNT movie figs yet. that's all the neca I have.
You are right that their joints aren't exactly solid hard nylon, but then they kinda can't be, can they
>>
>>
>>11795953
I haven't had an issue but I only tried it with one (and a recent one - The Boys female character). I picked up a Nancy but other than stripping all the accessories and breaking them apart and taking the head off, I haven't really actually done even a kit-bash with it.
I though the Black Noir would make a good Ninja or a potentially good custom Midnighter but decided it was going to be too much work and not worth it even for a $19.99 figure from Ross.
>>
>>
>>
>>11796075
>That said those kits are really fun to do, just be safe.
Well, I hope so. Bullseye Deals (the Target storefront on EBAY) had the MGA Harry Potter potion box on deep discount and I grabbed one for $16. That's even better than clearance at actual Targets or even the clearance outlets like Burlington or Ross. And I sat through two videos of people making the set. In fact, one of the reasons I bought it as that I thought the set itself (since I don't plan to use it for actual Potter stuff) would make an interesting start to a diorama.
What I actually wanted was the potion and mad science type stuff - even if I don't mix up the resin and make the liquid potions - because I plan to make a Cadamus diorama but with deranged (and normal) Lex Luthors in lab coats. I'm also working on a custom Peter Parker Spidey in a lab coat with a few other characters, besides Mr. Fantastic so whatever lab I come up with should do double duty.
But thanks for the videos. I'm not handling the consent, the program resident service coordinators do that, but yeah, they get consent and write-offs from parents, because they property management company would be liable.
I also expect it to be older kids because what I ended up getting donated were LOTR kits so they are all swords and fantasy stuff. I have some action figures and probably will cobble together some LEGO stuff for them to do while so they don't get bored while stuff is waiting to happen. In fact, if crap has to sit for three hours, those kids will just need to finish up another day or something. I will need to sit down and think all this through.
>>
hey diorama guys..
remember those stacks of white cubes and stuff that action figures always used to knock over? I have a mighty need to recreate that. what were they even using? I can't imagine it was bespoke, had to be some off the shelf thing. I'm also having trouble finding examples, because no matter what I search, it just finds toy blocks, legos, kool-aid man, whatever. google is fucking destroyed.
>>
>>
>>11797361
Having struggled lately to use hobby saws to cut styrene for shit, I find it hard to imagine someone was carefully cutting out sheets and gluing them together to make these cubes for a toy commercial... and there was more, like i swear they had styrofoam bricks..
>>
>>11797368
they definitely had styrofoam bricks, but they would look like that, styrofoam, to get that clean look, it had to have either been styrene, or possibly resin in like a ice cube tray?
We have some examples at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_JiMtdDc2A
1:06
Thats definitely styrofoam at 7:58
13:38 those have to be ice cube tray resin
>>
>>
>>11797368
>>11797373
AH! exactly my thoughts! yeah, Styrene and other such foams like Insulation sheets aren't cut with saws, sometimes they are cut with razors but more often they use a hot wire
>Stepped away to get lunch and forgot to post my previous post, only to see someone else mention my theory
>>
>>11797373
oh brilliant! that's exactly what I was thinking of..
and I think you're right! I'm seeing some that have to be manufactured products, some that were clearly just sliced up bricks, and.. yeah, I think those fake ice cubes have to be resin. Real good eye.
>>11797380
Hot wiiiiire, that makes sense. Hmm I wonder if they sell a safe and cheap cutter like that for hobby use. I'm good at drawing the design I want to cu tout onto the styrene, but lousy at cutting it out from there. Need a dang jigsaw..
>>
File: HJH0sd7bcAAQR6N.jpg (266.8 KB)
>>11797383
I know for a fact they do, you can probably find a deal on amazon or elsewhere really, that's how friends of mine got theirs, they even use it to cut the foam/sponge things that they use to ship built kits
>>
>>11797385
that's awesome.
you've already helped so much, it feels wrong to ask to be spoonfed a recommendation. if I just search 'hot wire cutter' will I get somethin decent?
also making sure I'm not a retard, is that only for soft stuff, or is that also suitable for hard styrene sheets
>>
>>11797388
There's no shame in learning anon, the hot wire should be able to cut through most things, but that also means FLESH so be careful with it, no styrene should be an issue, BUT make sure you get good ventilation AND a respirator if posible, something like a cheap gas mask from a hardware store should suffice, the ones with the filters often seen in resident evil games or certain raves, remember it is HOT so it can indeed cut and melt most things, Just be careful when using it, don't breathe the fumes and if you're not sure what you're doing, watch a tutorial, you're in luck because Hot wires are quite literally Jig-saws without the saw part in a way, it won't cut through wood, but plastics are relatively soft when met with hot metal, here's a video from one of the guys from Mythbusters! just try to be well informed when learning to use a new tool so you don't go in blind!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NbK_H0QmOI
>>
>>
File: 705567811_10240108615240451_2835217922357244718_n.jpg (544.5 KB)
>>11797393
That would indeed be suboptimal, yes... please keep us posted, i'd love to see what you'll make with it, Foam is quite popular for a reason in diorama making after all!... i also recommend watching the full video of Adam savage here, he actually explains really well how to use it, and if you need more stuff with foam and dioramas, here's a guy that makes some kino stuff!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmrF3qP-Ak0&list=PLjnjo-v8l661KgFu-fcx fFd1qbTotDrHo
>>
File: hehe fire retardant.png (278.3 KB)
>>11797397
I did watch that video! In fact I may have seen that before.
Well I was almost exclusively planning to use it with styrene sheets, but the products I'm finding, sounds like they're not good for that. Probably because I have to be the cheapskate and insist on a pen-format one rather than the whole board setup thing, THAT could probably handle harder plastic. Though thinking about foam DOES have me tempted to make fun dioramas and rocks...
Maybe what I really need is a 'plastic scriber'? a regular boxcutter did not do the trick...
>>
talking about xps foam
>I did put primer on it (white glue mixed with acrylic paint)
>let it dry
>painted it (acrylic paint)
>let it dry
>dry brushed it (acrylic paint)
>let it dry
>sprayed a top coat on it
>let it dry
now the problem is that If I keep my toys standing on it for a few days the paint "glues" itself to the toys. And I don't understand why. Even if I screwed up the top coat this was months ago so it should all be as dry as possible and the toys aren't wet or something either.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: GNB516.jpg (112.1 KB)
>>11797593
I suggest getting a Clear coat that will either make it gloss or matte, that way it won't stick to anything and it will also look nicer, i can vouch for mr hobby/Mr Super Clear, it is a great investment over all honestly!
>>
>>
>>
>>11797814
Ah, i see the problem, i'm afraid you are using it too close to what you are spraying, making it pool and become more dense, i believe you are also not shaking it thoroughly, if possible for up to 2 minutes, or just remove the spray cap and throw it at the washing machine and taping the lid to it so no accidents happen, much like a makeshift paint shaker, as that also can cause it to come out that way, try keeping it in the sun so the spray can cure or if you have a UV light it can also work, try to spray it from slightly afar and do several short bursts of spray rather than one big continuous one as that can cause the spray to pool and not stick too well
>>
>>
>>11797593
Sometimes paint refuses to cure, i've seen a ton work arounds, some people even say mist down the paint with water to help "re-cure" it and such.
Honestly a healthy blast of clear coat is always my go to, let it dry, then clear coat it again.
Since my figures are going to be sitting on shit until i rotate my displays, a few coats of clear coat always fixed it up.
the same clear coat i used on my chairs btw >>11795059
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249087-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/ B002BWORZE
You keep saying Acrylic paint? im going to assume the cheapo stuff like the apple barrel brand or whatever you get at walmart, i use that stuff for my diorama's too, and the only time its ever stuck on a figures foot was during a heat wave.
>>
>>11797967
oh fuck, apple barrel flakes off if you look at it funny
It's sad, I didn't realize how different model paints were, despite using both those and the more 'do a painting' paints for decades. For so long I was customizing figures using the latter, and having to thin it down then apply a dozen coats..
>>
>>
>>
File: IMG_2510sml.jpg (366.9 KB)
>>11798171
kinda has a baron harkonnen vibe to it
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>11790733
>>11791768
>>11791789
Do not out clear coat on that it'll ruin the reflection
>>
File: paint.jpg (432.5 KB)
>>11797609
>>11797642
How are those different? According to the store sites they should do the same and both are without solvents.
>>11797708
here
>>
>>11792538
>>11792538
Sorry, yeah it is meant for canvas most likely. I never intended to use it for customs. I wanted two decent figures that some mom dumped in a lot of like rock em sock em Superman and I thought I would paint those but ended up eventually dumping them at a local thrift.
I plan to mostly use this paint on say some dioramas and things I don't care about. And to learn.
>>
>>11798068
It looks like you got the other side to come out. If this isn't yours and you got it second hand, I am wondering if the brilliant person you got this from super glued that piece in? Because my suggestions would have been either or both the hot water dip trick or the hair dryer tip.
>>
>>11799523
Yup, you are right. Got this 2nd hand. I think you might be also be right about it being super glued. Looks like I will have to cut it and sand it to make it look as pretty as possible. I will have to cover the other gap with some plaplates or something.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>11791789
Im this anon and the paint still isnt dry
Which seems strange cause if this isnt the type of plastic that paint doesnt stick to, I shouldn't still be able to wipe it off after eight days right? I also took a hairdryer to it about four days before I did a touch test yesterday
I might just be retarded
>>
>>11800993
and you dont live in, like, a jungle, right?
this actually reminds me of when I used to sculpt clay figurines and paint them with simple acrylic paints, and at one point I accidentally got this fucking wood stain instead of brown paint
and it worked, and looked good, but it neeever dried. it was always slick and sticky.
>>
>>
>>
>>11801084
It might be that.
The gold paint takes two days to dry though. But all paint is different I guess even if it's the same maker
I also painted Nightcrawlers sword with the same silver paint three days ago though and it's completely dry
I'll give it another week.
>>
I want to make copies of my figure to fuck with them and try making custom parts with.
I know people use silicone molds then pour resin in to make cast copies but how 1 to 1 are these copies in detail if you don't have shit like a pressure chamber?
>>
>>11801314
the pressure chamber is to drive air bubbles out of the resin. The silicone mold itself is pretty much the best copy you can hope for without superspecialized equipment
What I wanna know is how people fully disassemble figures. and also if anyone has figured out a way to make a mold out of a material that then... expands, so you get a scaled-up one.
>>
>>11801401
I feel like if you want a scaled up one you'd need to do something like:
>disassemble the figure
>use photogrammetry to get a 3d scan of the figures parts
>fix up blemishes in blender
>use a resin 3d printer to print the parts in a bigger size
Then you could just use a silicone mold to recast the new parts if you don't like them in the 3d printed resin.
>>
>>11801413
i'm simultaneously like 'blech' and 'i fucking want to do this before I die'
of all the shit that never worked out in my life, if I can just either make my own toys from scratch, or ride in a self-driving car at high speeds across the country to visit friends inside of an hour even if they're across the country.. then I can die happy.
>>
File: 20260529_062551373.jpg (614.9 KB)
>>11791997
added more belts and a different hoodie
>>
>>11800771
NTA but I would say so. I also am not sure why "clear coat" would "ruin the reflection" but I'm late to the party here.
>>11800520
I just participated in an entire thread about this elsewhere, if the hole on her head is too big for the peg, that's an easy solution - blutak, poster putty/poster adhesive, the hot glue and Vaseline trick, using washers, or other bits of plastic, etc.
It really depends on how permanent you want to make the head. Personally, I'd always want to make the heads swappable while I'm the owner and wouldn't make it permanent unless it was a custom I was selling.
>>11801087
If other stuff is drying and not giving you problem, it might be that particular paint - I'm meaning the gold here >>11791768 ???
>>
>>11803267
>washers
why didn't I think of that?
>vaseline
can you coat something in vaseline and then fill it with milliput kinda stuff, and will it harden into a basically flush ball in the socket, but still separate? then like.. roll it around til youve wiped all the.. .. no that wouldn't work, would it.
>>
File: TOY-SCL3-87849.jpg (70.7 KB)
>>11803267
>If other stuff is drying and not giving you problem, it might be that particular paint
I think it might be the plastic on Thors head because when I used it on Nightcrawlers sword it became dry within three days.
Also it doesn't stick to this either. I ordered some top coat so maybe that will fix it
>>
File: 20260602_171040.jpg (923.5 KB)
Im still waiting for that Top Coat to come in before I even try touching Thor again, but what do you think would be better for Citizen Vs face, the same silver as his sword, or the reflective silver like Thor? In the comics it not often drawn to be reflective but that might just look better
>>
>>11807233
Personally, the shine on Thor's helm looks good. With the regular sheen on the paint of the action figure itself, that sword and that other piece look a bit washed out. Some of this may be lighting but that's my off-the-cuff take.
>>
>>11801843
Are you buying the hoodies? I just picked up a lab coat for cheap, only because I got the guy to agree to combine ship and he was selling a collection of random shit he was never going to get what he wanted or hoped for. Only one other person bid on that lab coat and I am sure they gave up because winning it PLUS paying for postage would make it stupid expensive.
I just don't know about a bunch of soft goods and it depends on what. The Ben I have already is the one with the plastic hoodie and I am not a big enough fan to do what you did. I'd rather invest my energy and money into something like shit for a villains lair or something along those lines. But you can use cloth goods for that. Like an actual sofa. Or a mattress, curtains, etc.
>>
>>11807606
in fairness, the hoodie often looked like fucking metal in the comics, depending on the artist. For years I thought he had, like, a White Ranger breastplate on. What would you call that, an aegis? to me an aegis is more like a connected set of pauldrons with a little chest and back armor, but maybe..
>>
File: 20260603_103100.jpg (416.1 KB)
>>11807597
Wow you know its kinda hard to tell but this looks a LOT better, jeez
Hopefully this sticks unlike it does to Thors helmet
>>
>>
Are there easy ways to pimp a "boring" brick wall backdrop? I thought about glueing some popsicle sticks (cutting the ends off first) on it for a boarded up window look and maybe use a straw as a drain pipe. Any other ideas?
>>
>>
>>11808203
I find it's always kinda six of one half a dozen of the other
sometimes it benefits you to be able to paint the piece and ONLY the piece, because there's nothing else, you detached it. other times, what it attaches to makes the perfect grip while you're painting it, and you know exactly what's going to show when it's reassembled
but mostly I'm just a coward about disassembling anything
>>
>>
File: 20260603_154304.jpg (1.9 MB)
>>11808354
Proof
No plastic rip or anything
>>
>>
File: D-001 (1).jpg (278.6 KB)
>>11808358
>>11808405
I like the grain, personally.
If it was a modern figure, and not Thor, I'd say he would have a sleek fiberglass look, like an effing car/Iron Man.
But Thor's Helm is potentially millennia old.
And the shine seems to work now, but I'd have to look at side by side pictures, really.
>>11808173
Cardboard, foamcore, and printed out sheets would be the 'easiest' and 'cheapests' - and I don't mean AI generated images. Essentially, that's part of what you buy when you get playsets from a few companies. Except mass produced.
And then I agree, popsicle sticks aged and maybe sanded down on some sides, to look like 2x4s? Maybe stain (not paint stain but grease and other 'soiling' type crap) them and leave them outside to weather? And anything that works. You can take the plastic top off something and make it look like a cover, paint it and anything else you can think of that would fit on a wall, like bars or a broken AC.
See PICREL but not such a basic bitch outcome.
>>
>>11808431
You're right, but Kirby always drew it like it kinda had a reflective metallic finish despite that.
I'm aware that's not a Thor drawn by Kirby don't worry
>>11808405
Yeah it's not visible at all, if you don't full view it and look at the thumbnail that's more or less how it looks in hand
>>
File: 20260604_124043.jpg (186.9 KB)
>>11808405
One night of drying later and its like this
>>
File: 20260604_124205.jpg (282.1 KB)
>>11809459
Then I took a picture outside for better lighting because I cant be retarded all the time
>>
>>
File: IMG_2720.png (882.2 KB)
Finally getting back to the project that got me my name (after 10yrs too, oof). Still got some ways to go, but here’s the model so far for a realistic Papi from Monster Musume, which will be an upgrade kit for my petite blank figure. Final model will have the tube top and the cutoff jeans, plus the figure will have Papi’s signature hairstyle for the three heads (smiling, joyful face, and ahegao).
>>
>>11810164
glad to see someone at least trying to be realistic with those designs.. I have no idea what the monmusu designer is smoking, but it's not monster anatomy most of the time.
This looks quite nice. Wish I saw more things like this.
>>
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808326886469.html
Kinda strange there aren't any like skin tone Gundam Markers that I can find, and all I can find are things like this that don't seem to have much information about them
>>
>>11811586
gundam markers are usually for small line detail, the kind of thing that typically doesn't want to be flesh toned.. These look more like MARKER markers, they have an actual like, tip, they're not basically ballpoint pens.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: IMG_7509.jpg (1.7 MB)
(�/�c��} _� ��P�C��7�ad�o����O�2B¯!]lW�c� ����_��_AR����/Զ��ȡM(Z#X�����m�ʹ�w��eG~0�e���~~^ #�n(ɚg�m:�J����F��}�d�n��Sv���Lŕ���;d������:S;�|��������J����#͝l�ޖa��F��2�d�+�Y�g$����R2��8T�.�Лܥ'N^�����T�>�F���G>��M~z�� �ZrM1д��U�C���d�K"�.���G��;7��(�T0����ZR�DrGo����:��%��%K����:�S/B�� gi�{Ue:��Dz�Jo
����d6k��NR[;�xc�"
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 20260609_221738.jpg (2.6 MB)
(�/�c��y~= �GS����u:�)�u�jH�����[����)e��GO��-��w��o^��U��1�����)�!��}{�ޠ[{��0�$��� �� ��}���B��25�~OET�5�zg,!8��tޅ/4�7,,�,���U>~P�P��#.^���"Ca%Z�H��z0����q�YxH�9��Ƙ`{@�8��%81�b?���C��C���C�19�OfS&�B0藩c�|�I~k �U�i��j0�j ����hq_bh�uj,���nq
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>