>>2970554
Haas coldfire > all cnc controls ever

I wish I could have experienced the sound and smell of a fully operational line shaft shop like OP pic, preferably steam powered...

>>2970554
does everyone get their own station? whats happening at the unpowered row on the right

>>2970554
Anyone know much about the poles they're handling? I imagine they control the mechanical power somehow.

>>2970844
I don't know about this particular photo but ones that I have seen that are similar are like a clutch. It controls the speed and can also disconnect power completely.

>>2970844
It slides the flat belt onto an idler pulley or somesuch up top to stop the lathe. Speed control of the lathe was done by different sized pulleys on the lathe spindle. There might be 2 different sized pulleys up top for speed control too.

>>2970748

I'm pretty sure everyone in that shop went deaf after a certain point

>>2970911
They aren't that loud.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWwQ6TPui5I

>>2970846
>>2970879
Cheers anons.

>be head machinist/programmer/supervisor for a 5 man cnc department
>everything goes to shit Monday
>spend all of Tuesday fixing everyone's mistakes
>management hammers me Wednesday for being behind
>go home early to spite them
>come in early Thursday and get some critical orders finished
>management hammers me for still being behind
>call out today just to spite them
>management tries to get their nepo hire to do my job
>he can't program a simple part and misses the deadline
Am I in a position to demand more money

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so continuation from other thread, i found a wiring diagram (still havent set up the wiring yet)
can anyone decode this and just tell me which ones are the main power leads? after that i dont need to worry about the control wires since i can just control the motor with the vfd
motor says it can do 2 or 4 pole

>>2971213
Probably. But if I was your superior I'd push hard to replace the unreliable and temperamental guy causing problems by offering that same salary elsewhere.

>>2971234
probably the black three on top/right in the picture. they will go into the motor case. doesnt matter which order you connect them to the vfd but it needs to be a direct line not through the switch

>>2971257
i figured it out, turns out there is no control wires and all six are main motor leads, i just use either the 3 on the bottom or the three on top and it either gives me low or high speed

>>2971242
They already tried to hire a replacement and the guy can't cut a straight line. They paid him more than me too

>>2971213
I would find a new job, then come back and tell them you’re giving two weeks notice

If they counter with a higher paying hourly rate

Take it but still leave in two weeks anyway

Little compensation for their bullshit

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Did my first work with aluminum and carbide insert tooling this week. I think I'm doing ok given I'm working with clapped machines and iffy tooling. (Decent 5-flute shell mill, but we're only allowed to replace inserts if they're actually chipped/broken, so I'm working with a mix of new and worn inserts.) Also holy fuck this shit scratches if you even look at it funny, real pain in the ass.

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>>2971356
Also, got to use the mics I posted last thread a bunch this week and they seem to be accurate, at least comparing them to the school's standards and mics. I made some "kaizen" foam to hold them and my caliper in my toolbox as well, this is kind of a prototype and I'm gonna use the school's laser to cut better ones, maybe out of wood that I'll line with felt.

My instructor suggests I get my own lathe tooling for when we get to that, says even the cheap Amazon kits are better than the trashed stuff the school has. Was thinking maybe one of the $150ish Shars kits.

>>2971356
That’s fine, in the real world e tumble aluminum parts. Takes all the tooling marks out and gives it a nice stone washed finish that doesn’t show the type 3 anodizing

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>bought fusion360
>bought a carvera mill
>gonna quit my job this week
Tell me I'm gonna make it

>>2971511
>wastes money on countertop toy
and then what? whos buying your weebshit keychains?

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having a hard time finding the oil and grease ports on this thing, didnt come with a manual and havent gotten a response from acramill yet on details about the machine
i was able to easily find information about oiling the lower half of the machine so why does nobody talk about the head

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>>2971588
heres more pictures for a full 360 view of the head

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>>2971589

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>>2971590

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>>2971591
and this is the last picture, i know im supposed to oil "the slot" on this weekly but im not sure what it exactly means, and i also cant figure out how to operate the lever because it doesnt turn in the slightest, unless its just stuck but i dont wanna break it by beating on it

>>2971588
buy this book. its $33 well spent
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154044907137

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>>2971588
lower cup on the side gets light spindle oil. the bearings are open and the oil flows in them drips out the quill snout
to lube the quill put it down a few inches and drip oil on the top of the drawbar end
the upper oil cup on the side of the head is for the backgears. it takes med-heavy. it leakes out into the quill with use

>>2971585
I just have to make $1200 a week and its all worth it
Thats 30 little wooden things at $40 a piece I have to move every week
I'll find something to make and begin modeling it and programming it over the next couple weeks after work. Little stupid trendy things, replicas of historical significance, things that other people are 3d printing that would be nicer if made from wood. I'll make 100 of each thing before starting the next. I'll 3d print the workholding. I'll order the tooling. No down time and I could spend 80 hours a week on this from my home.
Once I have a viable income I will move on to aluminum parts and more complex assembled parts. Nothing too expensive and still sticking to low volume so I dont have too much niche shit I have to move
I just need to be able to prove to a bank I can run a business right. Then with a loan I can afford manufacturing space and larger more competitive machines

>>2971592
i dont see the upper oil cup in the little cutout so yours may have greased backgears

>>2971601
how would I grease the backgears?

>>2971602
some heads have a set screw you take out and screw in a tube of luberplate. it doesnt take much and its like a 500hr service interval

>>2971602
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=2099&tab=3
there several variations of operators manuals here with info. it changed a. it over the years so check several different ones if yours is different

>>2971511
Just make Glock switches or some shit

>>2971605
thanks for the link
>>2971603
you wouldnt know what screw from the images would you? sorry if im asking for a lot here

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>>2971611
ive only ever seen it on vari heads and its on the back marked C in the picture. its an allen headed setscrew size 5/16-24

what a fucking treasure
an absolute cherishable jewel this piece of work is
smacking it only drove it inside further

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>>2971628

>>2971630
And it doesn't have a through hole to knock it out from the back?

>>2971650
no for some reason it doesnt go all the way through

>>2971665
wat? never seen a blind r8 collet ever
post threaded end

>>2971600
>Thats 30 little wooden things at $40 a piece I have to move every week

Lol. That sounds easy enough that everyone should do it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqS9KaEg_Xs

>>2971669
i'll post it next chance i get, but i could clearly see rough machining marks on the bottom of the hole

>>2971630
Open the jaws of a bench vise a little wider than the endmill, fold 2 rags to make a really really thick pad

Slam the collet against the pad the endmill will fling out onto the floor

Or just use need nose pliers grab the web you’ll break the endmill but save the collet

Is 50-75sfm not reasonable for cobalt drills on 304? Today my 17/64 drill ran through something like 15 holes on 304, then it started glowing.

I'm the guy who broke a tap on this same part on the last thread. For anyone who finds themselves in that position, turns out the tap-disintegrating carbide drill bits really work. Saved a ~$1200 part.

>found scab work for $45/hr out of state and they pay for my hotel
Everyone is telling me not to but... what could go wrong

>>2971853
i looked into it a few years ago when i still had the gumption to wageslave. its basically just being a temp except everyone hates you 24/7. and if you get sent to a big union plant in the rust belt you can expect to be at minimum screamed at by 50 yo manchildren on the picketline. and about 50/50 whether youll get the windows broken out of your car and dogshit dumped in or even physically assaulted. if its bad the temp agency will bus you in though
mostly its just mindnumbing production work for half again the pay plus maybe ot if youre not getting 1099 ratfucked jewed. read the fineprint on the contract

I'm milling some holes into the faceplate of an instrument enclosure and it's 'foaming up' as the mill is making passes. Pretty sure it's some kind of aluminum. I'm re-running the program to clean it up but still the foamed metal is bulging out over the edges and making cleanup a real pain.

Is this something I can fix with a different feed and speed or is it just shitty aluminum?

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>>2971946
machine? cutter? rpm? feedrate? finish cut?

>>2971745
i hate 304. and its inconsistent as hell. somebody told me the extra machineable carpenter steel version was just tight input controlled melt. but i digress
precision twist brand cobalt drills are ok. nachi cobalt are the goat
im pretty conservative on 304. id probably start at 600-650 rpm and .003 feed w/.062 peck and play from there. if you dont have flood get a bottle of molydee or sulphurized oil and brush the tip evey peck. +25% on everything if you have flood @10-12% concentration
get 2 or 3 drills and swap them out every 5 holes or so because the heat just builds in them

>>2971956
Diy tabletop cnc, 1/8 2 flute HSS end mill, don't know manually adjusted, 5in/min, none.

>>2971853
Do it but fuck ip constantly on purpose maybe crash a machine or two to help the union workers

>>2972026
5 ipm with hss endmills is like speed of something a fuck ton more ridgid than some conduit way router you assembled out of 3d printed mounts and run with grbl and stepper motors

I tend to only cut aluminum with diy kit mills and run a super super shallow doc and very slow and use air as cooling

Even then finish is meh but cutting is cutting these aren’t dmg moris

>>2972155
The machine is plenty rigid, the end mill was just spinning too fast. I dropped to 3 ipm and lowered spindle rpm to manual milling speeds and everything is ok.

>>2972166
post some pictures, if we saw your setup we might be able to tell you what the issue is
its also probably not as rigid as you think it is, or there might be one point where the rigidity isnt good like the vise or the way the workpiece is clamped

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>>2972185
It works fine, my new problem is that dimensional accuracy is shit and the servos get stinking hot after a while.

what percentage of your time is spent frustratingly trying to solve a ridiculous problem compared to actually getting work done?
for me its about 70%

>>2971600
Production is never a problem. Anyone can produce thousands of something. You need a reliable way of selling stuff. Focus your attention there. Perhaps start a shorts chanel that is only there to promote your stuff, just like every other "product designer".

>>2972251
You sure that’s steel? Those chis look kinda aluminum ish to me… is the part magnetic?

>>2972436
I said it was aluminum, some kind of soft shitty aluminum that behaves like cheese. Doesn't like a high depth of cut, it starts getting pushed out of the way rather than being cut. Anyways it's done.

The machine is losing steps I think, the holes came out undersized by 10 thou.

I want to get into machining as a hobby. Im debating if I should go the self taught route or get certified at the local technical college.
The college seems pretty cheap, less than $4k for the whole program and it's pay as you go.
Not sure if it'll be worth it, but I imagine having the guidance and all the tools would be better than buying stuff myself.

>>2972550
>hobby
>get certified

Do you actually have something you want to make or are you an NPC looking for a costume to wear? This isn't an insult to getting an education, there's a lot to know machining, most of it not applicable for someone dicking around at home using minature tools.

>>2972550
That's shockingly cheap, must not be a lot of class time. I'm doing a machining associates at a regular community college (albeit one with a notably good and in-depth program) and it's gonna cost me around 16k in tuition by the time I'm done, plus required tools etc. (Thankfully not that many of those at least, I've seen some programs that require a whole Kennedy box full of shit.)

>>2972550
>less than $4k
you could probably get a used mill and lathe for that

>>2972567
I just figured the tech school will give me a guided path on what to do and give me a lot of breathe.
My concern with buying the equipment and not doing school is that I'll just be lazy and it'll sit there in the shed while I sit on my computer all day. School, especially with stuff like Canvas, kind of gamifies the learning process to me. That's how I went through college anyway.

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>>2972640
my 65 yo buddy is currently in a 2yr cc machine tech program on the gi bill after a full career in the guard. hes just doing it for shits and giggles and to learn cnc to play at home in retirement. he said its 100% haas controller and fusion 360 shit to make part loader button pusher monkeys. the math portion didnt even go over sin/cos for how to figure an oddball bolt pattern layout. the program wouldnt give much if you want to learn scratch building prototype or repair work
and machine shop is really a thing you either get naturally or you dont. and if you think you need a major handholding session to get it thats probably a bad sign

>>2972654
Really? I just want to make furniture and steam engines and stuff. What's with all that gay robot crap?

>>2971600
>>2971511
I'm not saying this to be mean or be a doomer, but you're going to fail if you think it's easy to move 30 pieces of anything a week as a no-name startup in a garage. Even more so if that's net and not gross.
>>2972281
Depends if the rats have recently been in my side of the building or not. The mechanic and fabricator love "borrowing" my drill bits and deburring stuff and then never bring it back. I've found them in the most random places.

>>2972640
>is that I'll just be lazy and it'll sit there in the shed while I sit on my computer all day

That's still going to happen after you're done 'school'. You don't have anything you want to make, go get your costume certification and be the best NPC you can be.

My carvera mill is here about a week earlier than I expected. I havent designed anything or ordered any tools like I said I would. Off to a bad start

>>2970554
She popped up in my feed.
This lady (male) got a chink lathe, looks surprisingly ok.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=on5yTSBz2tM

I found it interesting at least.

>>2972859
>She popped up in my feed.
Why does jewtoob push the troons so hard?

>>2972869
maybe they track my dirty habits of browsing inappropriate content.
(which is once on a full moon and in private tab so idk)
She's cute tho, I don't mind people like this as long they don't harras me with their "identity" and have something interesting to talk about.

>>2972550
I wouldn’t go to school for machining

Schools are notoriously poor, hss end mills and a lot of Bridgeport type shit

Guy on craigslist is offering manual mill training for $1000 for a 40 hour course. Its 1 on 1 training. From the images, its clearly in his garage. Do you think this is worth it for a newbie? Ive seen manual mill machinist pay in the area get up to $36/hr

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>>2973208
>Guy on craigslist
>its clearly in his garage
>manual mill machinist pay in the area
>up to $36/hr

>>2973208
You’re going to get fondled in the shed by a guy on Craigslist

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I ended up going with these HSS boring bars instead of the solid carbide ones mainly because the carbide one was like $30 while these HSS ones were $25 and come with a set of inserts that were $20 if I tried to buy them separate.

I guess ill see how they work out

>>2973262
Place I work has so many iscar, so many kennametal, and sandvick boring bars on the ground, in 5 gallon harbor freight free buckets

I use an ultradex one as a box cutter

Would dudes like you pick up used boring bar holders?

I’m mostly focused on selling controls since I have like 40 of them I need to get rid of and they’re not cheap

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>>2973272
Im sure somebody would probably buy it ive looked on ebay for used name brand stuff but prices were still too high compared to the Chinese stuff I have been buying. Unless I could just get it for a steal I personally wouldn't bother but at this point I have bought about everything I think I could ever need... I guess I could use some 5/8 bars that would fit my boring head though but even then I could just modify some cheap Chinese ones

>>2973280
I’m finding an issue where I’ll sell you a cheap iscar holder or a cheap kennametal holder

Or even a live tool holder that accepts capto tooling

But a lot of the people buying it then run into the problem of yeah I got the holder, tool , for cheap but can’t afford the inserts, tooling or the consumables with it

Like if I sold you a cheap Ferrari but you couldn’t afford the gas for it what good is it


And I’m willing to I’m sitting on over 1 millon dollars worth of tool holders in plastic buckets in a room that I need to clear out to get this business going but getting you a Ferrari for $1500 if you can’t add to get it running and can’t afford the parts and fuel for it I’m not really helping you out

>>2973368
What inserts do they take? Any commonly found cheapo inserts work with them?

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>>2973369
>attempting to converse with the tripfag in earnest
dont bother
hes bullshitting and doesnt actually have any. he knows most bars take an iso insert and sell for good money used on egay

I need to replace three solid pins on a cheap 22lr 1950s revolver. It holds the trigger guard, the trigger, and the sear lever on. They are not case hardened, just blued.
They are bent, peened, and mangled to fuck so I cant imagine them being super hard.

What steel should I make them out of?
I have hardness files at work and I may test that to see.

>>2973383
I can take a pic, my job is to sell shit…

Good money? So they sell for the same price as Siemens drives and heindhein drives I’ve been selling all month? $3500 each

>>2973369
What’s a common insert?
I never had to buy tooling, I just used to tell my old manufacturing engineer I need a face mill or turning tool or parting tool and he’d do all the leg work ordering what’s needed

I never bothered to look at the labels or anything
Also these tools have been left in buckets for years , they’re used and expect some rust and/pr boring bars that have been cut down etc

>>2971213
>found a job for $5 more
>I just have to program for 2 setup machinists
>thats it
I'm taking it

Since we're on the subject of tooling, my instructor recommended that I get my own lathe tool kit. I was looking at the $150ish Shars ones but I'm not sure which size and insert to get. They'll be used on 13x40 manual lathes with quick-change posts that can hold up to a 1/2" tool (actually a little more but 1/2" is a safe limit) as well as maybe Haas CNC lathes later on, and will be used for cutting steel and aluminum. Any recommendations?

>>2973988
Programming and setting up for other people is like warming your wife up to get fucked by other dudes

The reward for programming and setting up parts is the day or two rest break you get just pushing buttons and loading parts

Programming day after day is you do it the bitch work

>>2974087
Newer haas machines just use standard bmt45 and BMT 65 holders

If you find a shop with older haas machines it gets tricky

SL-10 uses bot10 proprietary haas holders, sl20-30 ish used that bot24 and larger use others bot40 I don’t remember

Then you also have the hybrid turrets , the vdi40 and the weird drive castle that no other brand (aside from some old ass okumas) use

Then the tool room lathes are a whole different story and can of worms that changed year by year model by model

>>2974170
No, I'm trying to go somewhere with this and not be a drooling retard mashing buttons until I'm 60
My current job has me providing estimates for the sales team, providing a podution schedule for management, programming everything, training setup machinists, creating inspection sheets and making sure people do them, and ordering our tooling.
I'm getting offered $5 more to do just half of that.
Been with this company for 2 years now and the sales team still doesnt know how to price work, our win rate is 20% and they give me no feedback on my estimates for improving that. The volume of our orders is also fucked up with setup time usually being more than the run time. Quality has no formal training and this is his first quality position but still feels the need to tell sales what he thinks is going to be challenging work. Sales adjusts their shop rate on his recommendation and we usually dont get anything with a tolerance under 0.015" since he started doing that
I've explained to him countless times a reaming tool can hold a tolerance under 0.001" and costs fucking nothing but he still insists its a hard tolerance to hold
My new shop just has me reverse engineering broken down machines and making new parts

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>>2974172
I'm talking about the actual tooling, not the holders. The Haas thing is secondary as well, main priority is the manual lathes that have the traditional kind of holders.

>>2974182
All you need is the second one and a grooving tool

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>>2974182
https://www.ebay.com/itm/374680334125
spend another $20-30 on a box of deskar inserts or something else better than the trash that comes in the kit and it still leaves a hundo for beer

>>2974195
I was actually looking at similar stuff on Amazon. Problem is they take two fucking weeks to ship to my area for some inexplicable reason (it was a week last year and that was bad enough), while the actual tool companies manage to do it in like 3 days. The main thing is just figuring out what insert size to go with though, and then I can figure out what I want to spend, I just don't want to get something that's gonna end up being hard or unreasonably expensive to get inserts for or just inappropriate for the work I'm doing etc.

>>2974216
long lead time shit is obviously drop shipped direct from chang in the orient
ebay is better than scamazon because you can sort by usa only with 75% success. if the location is fishy sounding itll be china so check if youre in a hurry
ccmt/ccgt are the most common chink inserts on the planet any more. you want the shiny ground ccgt for aluminum for school because i doubt theyll make you do much if any steel

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>>2974182
I doubt you will use any of these holders except for the first two and maybe the boring bar. I mean its nice to have something that can use the odd corners on those inserts but they aren't that practical when you have no tooling and a limited budget imo

A set like this >>2974195 would be better but you would probably be better off with a neutral tool that uses a square (45° chamfering) or triangle (can use for threading) insert but that will inflate costs

I mostly have used CNMG inserts where they have a neutral relief so you can turn them upside down to get 2 more of the good 80° edges. The CC*T inserts are good too but you cant turn them upside down because the relief angle is built into them

If you are going with chinese stuff a lot of it is going to have ISO designations

I would say starting out you will probably want a left, right, and neutral turning tool a small boring bar, an external and internal threading tool, and a parting/grooving tool and maybe if you can find some old HSS from an estate sale or something you can just grind what you need

I have had good results with DESKAR stuff on aliexpress but BB, ZCC.CT, and KeenCutter I have heard are good but if you order for ali you will have to wait a couple weeks usually I think the fastest I have gotten something was about 2 weeks

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>>2974352
>>2974182
I was just looking on ali and I didn't see a tool holder that would take CNMG inserts that was smaller than a 16mm shank so it will be too big for 1/2" unless you mill it down so you probably want something like this
SCLCR1010F06 (Right) SCLCR1010F06 (Left) which should take a CC*T06 insert
S10K-SCLCR06 (10MM boring bar) S06H-SCLCR (6MM boring bar) takes same CC*T06 insert
MGEHR - grooving tool the smallest im seeing is 12mm shank which should fit

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805557364209.html
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802490174984.html

>>2974195
Damn those look exactly like the insert tools harbor freight used to sell for their mini lathes

Been learning the ropes pretty well but one thing I still struggle with is doing good length measurements over the z axis on a machine too. For example you have a 4 inches long part with a 2 inches diameter. But you need a 1 inches diameter for 2 inches of length. I'm usually off by double digit decimal which is not good at all. I've been trying to find video on proper zeroing then doing the right length but I'm having no luck finding them. Any help here maybe? I suspect I take a little too much metal when I zero but I am unsure where the cutting tool should be to start the measurement too

>>2974505
run whichever tool you tag off up to a little less than 1/2" from the part face
take a 1/2" dowel pin and try to roll it under the tip of the tool as you back the tool away by the .001 with the handwheel mpg
when the pin goes under the tool 1 click bit wont go and the next click will you are within a thou of .500 from the datum and set the offset accordingly
also cut you shoulder .025 or more short then measure for the final bit ya dingus

>>2974505
Is this on a lathe?
>barely graze the end of the part with cutting tool, wind out the X axis/cross slide into fresh air
>zero the Z axis hand wheel
>whind the Z axis to your finished Z dimension minus a safety margin for finishing, use the tool to scribe a line on the part with the spindle on
>roughing cuts up to that scribe line
>before finishing, rough your final Z dimension to within .1mm / .005" with the cross slide
>make your diameter finishing cut, watch the Z hand wheel
>end the auto feed just before you hit the shoulder
>wind the Z axis by hand to the finished Z dimension
>make a .1mm/.005" facing cut by winding out the X axis/cross slide
>do the last 2 steps as quickly/smoothly as possible for better surface finish

A digital readout on the lathe makes this incredibly easy and accurate. The Z axis handwheel graduations generally aren't very accurate. Hence shoulder length tolerances are usually +/- .1mm / .004".

>>2974505
What I was taught to do was just hold the handwheel very lightly and just run it in until your fingers slip. Kinda like using a mic. Alternatively you can use the paper trick, hold a strip of paper between the tool and workpiece and wiggle it back and forth while running the tool in until the paper gets caught, zero, then move the tool away from the part on whichever axis you're not zeroing, run it in to the paper thickness (usually .003ish) and rezero.

What is so elsuive about the installation of cryogenic dry gas seals? The principles are simple, the geometry is intuitive, the drawing are easy to read. Why can't you fucking retards install dry gas mechanical pump seals? T. Operator

my genius is almost frightening
>stack of dividing head plates
>none good enough for this fucking gear
>lightbulb.dwg
>what if I just 3D print one

>>2974873
Nobody knows how to design at my work it’s literally all a bunch of retards, they can’t read a mic, they can’t color match paint/find someone to do it, they can’t ship a package

But the boss loves them and hates me, their genius idea for a lot of their problems is

Have Sieg 3d print it!!!

For stuff that requires high precision and shit or stuff that needs to be water tight or very durable

Work doesn’t provide me a CAD license just piggy back off of my subscription until I stopped paying it because they were cheap

Now I just say sure go ahead and 3d print it, and hand them a spool of PLA…. Printer at work is covered in dust and nobody in the office can even run it

>>2974898
you overshared a bit

>>2974898
Didn't you recently change jobs? Or are you still at the same place you've been bitching about for the past few years?

>>2970554
https://www.ebay.com/itm/336424077679
killer deal if anybody wants a vertical face indicator for dialing holes in the mill. its kommie units but that doesnt matter if you are going for 0

>>2975033
buy a fucking ad

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>>2975106
>buy a fucking ad
i bought 2 instead
but having minor cooonsume remorse
which will soon pass
dont be salty (you) missed the deal

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Rate my crossword puzzle

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>>2975188
took longer than expected

>>2975191
It actually spells faggot

>>2975188
>POD
I will not live in it
>GTI
pretty based car
>SINAMAE
chinese cartoons
>PROBELS
99 of them but a bitch ain't one
>MOD VET
hell yeah brother
>MILLH
ouse
>NFL
go pigeons

>mill via helical profile hardened stainless steel 1.2316 euro standard 49 hrc
>have to turn it upside down and hit it perfectly because the profile got hardened too thick by vector
>boomertard boss comes (his fault the parts went to thermic oven too thick) asking what is the noise
>asks me if i can silence it so it lasts 2 shifts instead of 2 hours
>shuts tf up
>comes back 10min later telling me to go faster
>no problem boss
>let loose 1000mm/min
>mill shatters like a grenade
>hits me in the plastic plart of my overalls
>few shards hits him across the face, his idea was to jurryrig the door safety so we work faster
>no shards hit his eyes
>screeches in panic and calls for help like he got his face torn off

This was yesterday, i already have a few other places i can get a job at, but im thinking should i ask for more money and privileges here
Because im having serous doubts any place would have a different type of boss
Mind you, i dont work at places that have cameras or hr, nor would i ever work if those were the conditions
I can go to a place that only does soft steel plates, large ones, but its mostly 2d programming the type you can code on a machine itself and calculate the offsets to strike the tolerances if any are needed
I dont even care about money anymore, all i care is to get rid of boomer eyes and pressure that those that have no clue about milling metal get by watching youtubers and looking at simulations on cad software
I like my job, but i want to be left alone despite deadlines and problems which i myself manage with

I also managed to hit tolerances to a micron, had videos of the probing as proof on meetings where we were accused of jacking off instead of working
Nobody looked at the slideshow or listened to the presentation i and 2 others prepared
They just switched the subject to us smoking and playing phone games
Then accused of or coming late, 5 to 15 minutes
Then to wasting carbide (we take all broken carbide for ourselves and sell it)

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>>2975033
>>2975107
so these are actually 2 micron. which makes them fucking useless for beating on for crude work. ive never been so disappointed with precision

>>2975608
You can measure your dick now fag

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Posting random pic of some part my son made on a Hermli c650 using Fusion

>>2975714
multi-axis is cheating

>>2975714
Pretty neat, how long has he been machining? I've only gotten to program 4+1 axis and I really want to get in 5

>>2975732
About 8 years...he started with me doing simple stuff while still in highschool then went full time once he graduated...he picked up fusion pretty quick. Hes been programming the Hermle for a bit over a year

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>>2975739
We made this as a practice piece when the company first got the machine...made in 1 operation....i set it up and he wrote the program

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>>2975740

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>>2975741

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>>2975740
Oh wow, thats really impressive. This was my first piece on a 5 axis machine btw

>attach indicator magnet to machine
>barely start wrestling the joints into place
>150 year old boomer materializes behind me and sticks his giraffe neck over my shoulder
>uyo CaNeth measurings lika t..that, anonski!
>i haven't even setup the indica
>YUO can NOT
>refuses to elaborate
>vanishes into dust and appears at the next guy to bother
why are industry boomers like this?

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I'm currently building a test bench for a university project and noticed pic real, HM10-57 don't exist for Nema17, besides some sheet metal solutions. My question is why? Is this a case of
>Shit's so small, even minor misalignment will fuck your coupler or motor
or
>Shit's so small, it doesn't matter and no one cares

>>2979156
doesn't matter, 3D print something.

>>2971511
should have gotten a dmc2 mini

>>2979196
>get this flimsy piece of shit machine with the most inconsistent build quality in machine history
i put more trust in the chinese than americans

>>2979185
Guess i'll try and see then.

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>earth measures 0.00008 mm of curve per meter
>quality guy wont agree with me that its flat
WHats his problem?

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I'm 38, too late to start learning CNC or Mastercam? Or preferably start with manual lathes and milling machines? I'm terrible with numbers, but I'm very curious.

>>2979384
never too late to learn new stuff. you can learn cad/cam with fusion or freecad and they're plenty good for 3-axis machines. dunno why you mention mastercam specifically, it's largely irrelevant qhat you'll end up using because the process is similar enough in all of them. manual lathes and mills aren't obsolete just because there's cnc so it'a certainly useful to be comfortable with

How would I go about mounting a piece of aluminum rod 50mm in diameter and 150mm in length to the spindle of a small 200kg bench lathe?
Just mounting it in the 125mm chuck seems a bit iffy.

I'm trying to do some small scale production so I've been thinking if I could come up with a custom collet solution but seems really difficult to keep it within budget.

>>2979185
>>2979243
Worked well enough for a simple PLA model. Will reprint in PET-CF eventually. Thanks anon

>>2979430
www.youtube.com/watch?v=un2IC5S3mQc
make up a set of deep soft jaws to hold more of the stock length than the standard jaws. then flip and 2nd op in cut jaws to match the profile

>>2979430
It's fine to mark out and drill a center hole by hand/cordless drill in the end of the bar before you put it in the lathe, if you're going to machine off a decent chunk of the OD anyway. Then you only need to hold onto a small amount at the chuck, put a live center in the other end, safe as houses.

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>>2979436
Longer jaws seem like a pretty neat option. Just have to get them machined such that they hold the part straight.
>>2979437
I forgot to mention that I'm mostly going to be doing internal operations, drilling through this rod with various size drill bits to various depths etc. I would like to keep the holes concentric to the OD.
Perhaps I'll first mount the rod, and then true it with a bump tool.

>>2979430
as long as your jaws have 2 full threads of scroll engagement it's fine.

>>2979384
I'm 39 and currently going back to school for it.

>>2979473
it doesn't sound all that important if you're going to drill with different diameters to different depths, drills aren't exactly precision tools.

>>2979505
True, but like I don't want the hole to be 2mm off the center axis on the other side of the bar.
But yeah, honestly as long as the mounting is solid, and the drill ops are concentric with each others it's fine.

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>>2979473
>Just have to get them machined such that they hold the part straight.
youre missing the concept of soft jaws. you bore them while clamped under tension as the 1st step of the process. then theyre inherently concentric and have excellent grip because they hold on the exact diameter of the part

>>2979528
i chuckled

>>2979524
>clamp near edge of stock, don't bottom out the jaw depth
>center drill (can do by hand like other anon said, doesn't matter)
>use live center
>shave off a few 10th's from the OD
>drill holes largest to smallest (make sure you've used a large enough center drill for your largest drill)
>keep light pressure on the drills, let them work themselves in

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I didn't like how big the available case options for calipers all are so I designed and prototyped a custom holster today. They were just gonna be a protector for inside a box or bag but I figured I'd add a clip and try that out. Need to fix a few dimensions and smooth out the aesthetics but it works pretty well. I'll throw the final .stls up somewhere (clip and no clip versions) if people are interested. Made to fit the basic Mitutoyos everybody has but they might fit some other ones as well.

>>2979528
No of course I understand that. I'm just wondering how I'll get them clamped for the boring operation.

>>2979534
What do you think about my current drilling order?
I've got more or less the following drill ops in the following order
10mm drill 60mm depth
20mm drill 30mm depth
6mm drill 150mm depth

The last one has proven to be difficult for chip evacuation as you might expect

>>2979658
drill with 20 first, then 10, then 6. your 20mm drill is the most stable of the bunch, for subsequent depths the smaller drills will center on the 118° cone left by the previous drill. as for chip evacutation you just have to peck and pecking depth as a rule of thumb should be the drill diameter, meaning with the 6mm drill you drill 6mm deep and retract it fully to clear chips, repeat until done. use alcohol when drilling or machining aluminium for cooling and also to prevent galling.

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hello machineGODS. does picrel look reasonable to mill? it's 250x150x20 mm aluminium. fins are 4 mm, grooves are 6 mm, so a 6 mm mill should see an aspect ratio of just over 3:1
this is for passive cooling for a Peltier thing. multiple plates can bolt together to get more thermal mass, like in the lower part of the picture where four plates are stacked. the slots in the corners are so that it can be bolted to either metric or imperial optical tables
the big holes are M6, not tapped
the small holes are M3, tapped. is an aspect ratio of almost 7:1 unreasonable?

>>2979703
>drill with 20 first
homeslice has a china bench lathe. he aint driving a 3/4 drill in with no pilot without backgears

>>2979707
20mm deep is fine to drill if you peck like hell but a long way to drive an m3 tap. youll probably have to clearance grind the shank above the threads to make it through. id tap as deep as i could with an unaltered tap then finish with the slim ground one

>>2979708
he's drilling alu, i think it'll be fine. contrary to popular belief you don't have to hulk smash the handwheel to drill a hole.

>>2979707
hole diameter x 2 is sufficient thread depth, x 3 max, any more than that is just a waste of time.

>>2979703
Is alcohol really the best? I've got a flood coolant setup.

>>2979718
for alu, yes. put some denatured alcohol in a soda bottle and poke a hole in the cap, squirt some on there every now and then.

>>2979709
>>2979714
thanks for the feedback. what I have in mind is some plastic insulation around the entire top, and then long M3 screws holding that plastic piece to the bottom plate(s). I need to be able to put some pressure on the cylinder+spreader+peltiers for thermal reasons. perhaps long M6 screws are a better choice? that way the aspect ratio is more reasonable
I probably don't need the threads to go all the way through. only enough to where I can pick some standard screw length. I see McMaster has M6 up to 200 mm which is hopefully enough

>>2979723
idea: make room for a captive hex screw in the bottom plate, then hold things together with nuts on top of the plastic. that way there's no need for threads

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>>2979721
>in a soda bottle and poke a hole in the cap
>saar we have flood coolant at home

>>2979728
>nooooo you have to buy the apple alcohol squirter(tm) else you're just like this dirty pajeet with a bottle of poop water

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>>2979725
behold. the cutouts are to be able to get in with a wrench
while it probably isn't ideal to have aluminium be the thing that holds the heads of the screws, there's probably not going to be enough torque for that to be an issue. just enough to make good thermal contact. oh and the plastic will probably deform before that

>>2979601
Proof that you don’t know shit about 3D printing in one image

>>2979729
Didn't some jewtoober make a coolant holder that looked like a toilet?

I always heard Kerosene or diesel or hell even plain ol WD-40 or equivalent as cutting fluid for aluminum.

>>2979739
how are you going to get the screws in there?

>>2979767
>kerosene/wd-40/diesel
works but doesn't prevent galling as well as alcohol and it's also messy, alcohol evaporates. different alloys calls for different tricks but alcohol consistently works great, always.

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>>2979775
from the bottom
I'm also thinking just cutting threaded rod to length, then using lock nuts on the bottom

>>2979799
it's going to be incredibly annoying to thread a screw through all those plates even if you don't cut threads full depth. i'd have some dimples and matching (blind)holes on the individual plates, then have long screws (just need to be treaded on the ends) and sandwich the plates with plain normal cpu thermal paste.

>>2979802
>>2979799
actually to add to that, unless you thread the holes when they are already sandwiched together you're not going to get a screw through several of them because the threads won't align.

>>2979802
>>2979803
the inner holes (head heads) aren't threaded. that's why there's those cutouts in the plastic thing. put washers and nuts in there and tighten appropriately (not too much because peltiers are ceramic)
the outer holes are for bolting multiple plates together. I'm working on a new design that make the heads of those bolts accessible, if more plates have to be added
experience in the lab shows that we don't really want to fiddle with the cell (the cylindrical part) once assembled. we might however want to mess with the electronics. so I'm making a separate plastic part for that and a channel between it and the main "tower"

>>2979806
>head heads
*hex heads

>>2979806
>corner holes for bolting plates
ok, got it. anyways, sandwich plates with thermal paste and i think this might work fine. and i still recommend some dimples for aligning the plates and it'll look pretty too.

>>2979809
>dimples
you mean drilling say 3mm holes and gluing a peg halfway through? I guess that could look nice. the nice thing about the current design is that it doesn't have to be flipped over. everything can be machined from one side. to do dimples with small indentations on both sides, and gluing in a ball bearing, would require flipping it over just for that. pegs wouldn't

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updated design
>two separate boxes
>M4 threaded rod to keep them on the base plate
>all nuts on the outside
haven't drawn the panel that goes on the front of the smaller box, which is for being able to fiddle with the electronics without taking the M4 rods out

>>2979761
It's a rough dimensional prototype that I concepted and modeled in less than two hours of class time and I didn't have control over the slicing or printer settings, and it was printed on a clapped out Ender-5 Plus with dubious PLA. V2 is printing right now and the final version should be pretty dialed.

>>2979811
like, on the top side of the plate you have 2mm tall cylinders and on the bottom you have matching holes, instead of facing the entire top you leave some knobs so you can stack the plates and they align properly, just like lego. you can certainly bore some holes and glue in some pegs but i wouldn't machine them, get some silver steel round bar and cut them to length, they're incredibly round and straight and come in various diameters.

>>2979845
>instead of facing the entire top you leave some knobs
aha. yeah they do need facing since they need to be nice and flat for good thermal contact. I'll keep it in mind depending on which machine shop we use, what billet we can get etc

>>2979836
Honestly the heatsink design is just incredibly inefficient.
I suggest you just buy some ready made heatsinks and at most machine an adapter for them.

>>2979882
it doesn't need to be "efficient". it needs to absorb 100 kJ of thermal energy and dissipate it over 2-3 hours

>>2979843
you don't need to explain yourself to sieg, he's a bit special

>>2979960
Yeah I know, I held off replying for a while because of it, but it was annoying me

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Has anybody made a suppressor? What did you have to submit for the NFA form 1 regarding the design? Did you find plans somewhere online and submit that?

>>2980052
You can get one of those oil can apters or maglight conversion kits, they're both cannhave the nut that screws onto the gun registered then the rest of the kit is replaceable parts.

>>2980056
I want to make one on the lathe im really wanting to know more about the nfa process and was wondering if anybody here had made one for personal use

>>2980052
3D printed one, .22LR. Works really well.

>>2979384
>learning CNC or Mastercam
Can you add and subtract? Can you follow a sequence of steps (move 2 steps forward, move 4 steps to the right, turn to your right)? Can you take measurements, even if just with a ruler? If you can, you can learn how CNC machines work.
It does kind of help to learn how to use the mill and the lathe by hand, but not everyone has the hand-eye coordination needed to do high-precision machining. CNC machines do take away most of the complexity by offloading most of the cutting work to servotors, but you still gotta learn to measure stuff and figure out which tools to use and in what sequence.

>>2980494
and maybe just generally how the somewhat complex machine works so you can repair the fucker when it breaks, because it will

>you need a 30 year old VMC to cut metal!!!!!!
A sub $1000 router is enough for the vast majority of hobbyists.
https://youtu.be/iPNxT2wwccg?si=a0VZVrFvGobsVRwE

>>2981404
how much time do you got? what takes several hours on that machine takes minutes on a proper mill and the second hand market for VMC's is cheap, you just need space. you can build the space + get a used VMC cheaper than it'd be to DIY a rigid VMC and now you have the ability to charge for the job too, no one is going to pay you for the 6h it took to effectively engrave a trinket on that stupid router.

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I'm a newfag machinist. Been working for about... three(?) months now

What are your thoughts on these Tododa pallet tool matrixes?

The ones we have, have been shitting themselves at the worst possible moments. I had to do four back-to-back audits and this fuckbox decided to flip out.

I ended up making the call to finish my audits and keep the machine it's attached to opt-stopped until tomorrow with a note on what tool to reset on, as inventory won't let me record work until they're done

Any advice anons? I'm genuinely questioning my choice to work here. The other guy who started the same week I did has already quit, the guy supposed to be training me until tomorrow has also been MIA, though maybe that's for the best since he's possibly the worst teacher I've ever seen.

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>>2981880
have you tried turning it off then back on again?

>>2981893
Several times in the last two days, on the note of the pic you posted though, I would not be surprised if a network issue is fucking all of them up, but I don't know enough about how these things operate yet.

>>2981896
Why are they networked?

>>2981404
>this 0.27 HP spindle is all you need to cut metal

>2 years ago I struggled to hold 3 tenths on a shaft
>my scrap rate was over 50%
>not sure why they kept letting me do it
>today I held 1 tenth on 8 shafts
Feels good to see my hard work paying off

>>2982321
milling is like 3D printing but in reverse, there's no cutting forces or anything involved so you can suspend the atomizer with paper & rubber bands, np

>>2982322
what did you change?

>>2982332
I am still learning but I have tried a few methods and usually had good results. The biggest change for me was patience and not getting frustrated
For zero scrap, small volume of parts
>use a turning insert with a smaller radius, 0.008 or 0.016
>have enough material left on the part for a few passes
>every pass you make; cut deeper than the nose radius of the tool, calculate what it should be after the cut then measure after cutting and compensate that difference to your next cut and repeat with the same feeds and speeds until you hit your dimension
For higher volume and the first piece can maybe be scrap
>use a roughing tool with a 0.032 radius, leaving about 5 thou on the part
>finish with a different tool
>program out the taper if there is any
>a dull finishing tool will also make the taper worse so watch that
>dont try to chase it, just hit the tolerance in one cycle or aim high and walk it in with sand paper
While I dont like to blame the machine, the machine I used 2 years ago was 30 years old and crashed to hell and back. This new machine is only 2 years old.

>management actually started focusing on times for everything
No, my cushy job with long cycle times is over.

>new guy actually caring about being productive
Dammit you could've set the speeds and feeds how you wanted and learned Japanese on your phone or something. What's wrong with you?

I'm going to end up unemployed and just like Sieg.

>>2982486
Were you just trying to wing it at first? For a bore I'd always back off 0.06", measure it and cut half way to finish size, measure it and cut to finish size and that would always work.

>>2982487
Fuck you I was day trading, setting up a Shopify store and spamming affiliate links on TikTok during long cycle times at my last job

>>2982494
affiliate links is a sign of low IQ

I'm trying to recommend a video to a friend, and for the life of me, I can't remember the guy's Youtube channel.

Old Australian guy, somewher near/outside Melbourne, goes by the name "Prezzo".

Sometimes works on model scale stuff, but has a lot of videos about sand casting, metal finishing for humid environments, etc. Has shaky hands, sometimes puts in clips of the local birds.

Feel like I'm going crazy. Can't find anything in my watch history, or search results.

>>2982868
he's dead and the channel was deleted, cancer.

>>2982922
Not that anon, but why the hell would the channel get deleted if he died? That seems like the absolute worst way to remember anyone... Fuck.

>>2983005
don't ask me, relatives do whatever.

>>2983070
I know man, but still that's fucking horrible. I mean if the guy edited and put videos of himself on the internet to document them, then why would you go out of your way to erase everything so no one would ever know he existed? Maybe they hated his guts?

>>2982868
https://m.youtube.com/@Preso58/videos

>>2980052
Used to make them for a NFA manufacturer. I made most of the parts. (everything but some very small locking tabs).
ATF has form 1's and others as E-forms on this site-
> https://www.atf.gov/firearms/forms/eforms-applications

>>2982488
It was an od turn, 0.750" +0 -0.0003" along 3 inches on both sides of a shaft with a gear machined in the middle and I was basically trying to walk it in slowly 5 thou at a time if I remember correctly. I gave up and we tried to outsource to another shop but everyone refused so my boss tore into me pretty hard like it was my fault for doing a job that was already contracted for us to do

>>2983693
I've never had a tolerance that small but "back on twice" never failed me.

Otherwise get extremely close to size, back off 0.002", cut, back on 0.0005", cut, back on 0.0005", cut, ..., repeat until desired size. You'll reach size but finish won't be good.

>>2983753
if finish isn't specified on the blueprint (which it rarely is), it doesn't matter

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Working on a school project and I need to manual machine some features to accept roller bearings and their washers. The part pictured is aluminum but I need to do it in steel as well. We've got a pretty well-equipped machine shop but I'm torn between doing it on the mill with a rotary table, or somehow doing it on the lathe in a 4-jaw, I'm not sure what the best way to turn a precise shallow groove would be though. I'm almost tempted to grind a form tool to do it on the lathe but maybe that's a stupid idea. Any thoughts?

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>>2984504
And here's the complete project for context, btw. It's also worth saying that the bearings are a luxury feature and could just be omitted if they're too much trouble.

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have some OC /emt/

>>2984511
moar rpms

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>>2984514
the chuck will blow itself up if I go over 1800rpms, and I’d rather not have that happen. Right now I’m running at ~900rpm with a feed rate of around 0.0010 thou per revolution.
Ironically I’ve found that I got the best finish on deep cuts with faster feed rate when some friction occurs.

>>2984511
That looks pretty rough for a Vac-U-Lock base. You might need to start over.

>>2984548
It’s just a practice piece, since I’m at my trades college right now.
I’m guessing emery cloth or sandpaper can’t be used to smooth out the surface? It works good enough for getting rid of burrs on chamfers and stuff like that.
But this is pretty much the first time I’ve touched a lathe seriously, so I think I’m doing decent enough, I just have to thread a internal and external thread, then mill a key seat, I’ve only messed up one end diameter because I wasn’t paying attention to my DRO (drawing asked for ~.99 in, but I did .95 in), but it might still work out because the final size is ~.89 in.
So far all the other diameters are in spec, minus the rough surfaces on some of them.

>>2984556
What material is it you're turning? Mystery meat and mild steel stock always have a kinda shitty surface finish...

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>>2984563
I'm guessing just mild carbon steel, I'd know if its tool steel since it'd be hard as shit (and I don't think shafts are usually made of tool steel)
maybe I'll adjust my RPM, thanks for the pointers anon.

>>2971600
I'm a 3D modeler who is a starving artist, what kinda modeler are you looking for?

as the banner implies for /3/, please give me a job

>>2984556
>sandpaper
how to ruin the machine #101

>>2985493
>im a 3D modeler who is a starving artist

The greatest man who ever lived was once a mediocre Austrian painter who later fought the entire world

>>2985569
I fucking knew it