Thread #628605 | Image & Video Expansion | Click to Play
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For plastic models, some people use Krylon Crystal Clear in a spray can. Try that first on some printed paper (light coats) to see if it melts the ink.
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>>628605
I know a way but it's too late for that now.
You can cover the paper with white, transparent packing tape, but you have to do it when it's still flat. Gives it a nice shiny finish, and makes it stronger too.
I use the same technique on foam to build RC planes from papercraft templates.
Anyways, nice build!
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Just spraying a clearcoat can cause fuzziness, transparency staining, warping, and collapse.
Paint the entire model with PVA glue/Elmers/Aiileens/white paper glue, slowly a portion at a time drying being sessions.
When fully coated and dry, spray with an acrylic clear coat, it bonds with PVA and creates a glossy, slightly moisture repellent, dustable surface.
Best advice: take all recommendations ITT and test them on scraps of paper to learn what works.
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>>628605
Nice, this is the thread I need rn.
Should I use glossy paper or normal papper? Just tell me the name of the right one, what are the specs?
I'm a noob, but I WANT to make pic real and I NEED it to be shiny.
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>>628751
i think glossy paper is a pain in the ass to do paper craft with. i think coating the paper (before cutting) with a shiny-drying glue or modpodge is the way to go. you'd have to experiment which glue does not smudge the ink or warp the paper...
i don't have experience with this, though and i would bet that anything you put on it results in at least slight warping of the paper. in woodworking you solve this by treating both sides of it, so the forces that lead to warping even out.
good luck! (also FUCK this captcha bullshit)