Thread #97360034 | Image & Video Expansion | Click to Play
File: nurtenfrund.jpg (129.6 KB)
129.6 KB JPG
This is a general for everything 3D printed relating to /tg/ from sci-fi, fantasy, historicals, fantasy football, and more! Share your printed minis, terrain, print fails, 3d modelling, printing advice, works in progress, or anything else /tg/-related to 3D printing.
>DO:
- Post pics of your prints be they fails or triumphs
- Keep discussion/photos about tabletop games only
- Post your resin/printer/settings for faster advice
- Help your fellow anons with advice
>TRY TO:
- Remember that this general is monitored by GWendolin and her lawyers
- Not make a new thread until old one dies
- Not encourage namefags, tripfags, fumefags and coomers
- Not spoonfeed
- Not war over Filament/Resin consoles
- Keep your model pics naked (no paint/undercoat only)
- Look after small artists/studios
- Buy something from or tip an artist/studio you like
- Read the last 3 threads before posting
>FAQ
https://pastebin.com/raw/Lv0vvd7d
>Resources
https://pastebin.com/raw/hmSJixAy
>Guides (Install 4ChanX script for better experience)
FDM Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/H1en2ghM
Resin Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/SbYWdMnC
Resin Safety: https://radtech.org/safe-handling-of-3d-printing-resins/
Printer Buying: https://pastebin.com/raw/1Kfib5YK
https://youtu.be/roAqm5c3rfU
https://youtu.be/koMNXvSlpSs
https://youtu.be/cjDpmh2NQMU
https://youtu.be/xS7h_5di3Tc
https://youtu.be/GL-9Ia0SibQ
https://youtu.be/xw_ClxnJ1_U
https://youtu.be/ZXJQ5vQG0ZA
https://youtu.be/bWUfshO17b8
https://youtu.be/cGAgyRVK32g
https://youtu.be/YMO4Va2vT3Q
>Last Thread: >>97181041
274 RepliesView Thread
>>
>>
File: PXL_20260114_075310725.jpg (790.2 KB)
790.2 KB JPG
>>97360043
Freshly printed overnight
>>
>>
File: 20260114_005702.jpg (1.6 MB)
1.6 MB JPG
I have no fucking idea what is going on, this is a S4U, I have checked it is leveled to the tabe, default settings (lychee) for my resin, all screws are tight, nothing is moving during print time.
Is my printer just fucking cursed and trying to print a demon?
>>
>>97360898
First, did you only print that one model? If yes, your leveling and everything with burn in layers is fine. If some stuff did not get printed, try the manual level app in the printer.
This looks like it could be the anti alias bug.
The motherboard has a problem with too many grey pixels in the same line, and moving from 9k to 16k enlarged the danger of that.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/bNkAoa0_l2c
>>
Ok bois, I need advice.
Good friend of mine's birthday is coming up.
He recently got a decent resin 3d printer and he's going nuts over it, printing 24/7, his girlfriend is starting to complain about the sudden appearance of resin minia of dubious taste in the house, etc.
I was thinking of maybe gifting him something "hobby related" but I am a total ignorant noob on 3d printing (all my minia comes from China recasters) so here it comes:
What the fuck can I give him as gift that it is 3d printing related?
Is UV curing station a trap?
Is there something fancy an aficionados would love?
>>
>>97361759
An curing station is nice, but most often not that necessary. If you go that route, watch out for what size of printer your mate has, because the best thing is if you can just take the printed plate and put it directly into the cleaner, but some plates are larger than others.
I would maybe go with more resin. Maybe some interesting colors or those fancy engineering materials. There is one that cures almost like ceramics. Or some are like wax so you can cast it in metal afterwards. Maybe using those to make something for his girlfriend will mend the problems.
>>
>>
>>97361843
Do you have any names or reference for these fancy resins?
And I guess I need to check compatibility with his printer, right?
Also many thanks for the suggestions
>>97361849
I will tell him to 3d print a new one
>>
>>97362110
The good thing with how stale the resin printer field is with innovations is that all of those resins should work with any machine, they all use the same wavelength.
https://us.phrozen3d.com/collections/engineering-resins When I say fancy, I mean fancy.
>>
File: my prints.png (7.2 MB)
7.2 MB PNG
>>97360043
Got a nice printer for christmas and I've been going in on FSD after grabbing a bit of the range to play. Very excited and it was all very easy!
>>
>>
>>97361441
What the fuck man? This is exactly the issue, I always used AA and goo format with my previous printer and didn't know it could cause problems like this. I had a fucking hard time googling this because I didn't know how to describe it.
No homo but if I could I would kiss you in the mouth, thanks anon.
>>
>>97361843
>if you can just take the printed plate and put it directly into the cleaner
At this point you've slid from a cure station to a wash&cure station, which may not be entirely obvious to someone who isn't into 3D printing.
>>97362540
>they all use the same wavelength.
Some demand 385nm instead of the usual 405nm, but if we're talking Phrozen etc for "engineering" resins then they'll be quite rare.
>>
>>
>IG vehicles are great for FDM due to their blocky, chunky aesthetic
>IG infantry is terrible for FDM due to their size and flimsy details like lazguns and radio backpacks
So what, do I just make a shitpost all-tanks army or go all in on conscripts?
>>
>>
>>
File: IMG_3512.jpg (1.2 MB)
1.2 MB JPG
More from that batch. Thinking about toning down to 1.6s per layer as it’s grabbing the release film a bit too hard.
>>
>>
Are things settling down enough that new stl sharing groups are coming online again?
I long for the glory days again where i dont get asked to subscribe to some random site for pirated stls. Im blessed that im in a few that then went private but they never have everything like the big ones used to have.
>>
File: IMG_2467.jpg (955.6 KB)
955.6 KB JPG
Looking for the free Westfalia ‘trench stench’ dual pistol officer they gave away (that I missed out on). Anyone able to help a brother out?
>>
>>97366710
I'm waiting for some gigachad to post a leak with all of sdp's scans. All the groups I'm in are too pussy to post any sdp scans, I've already posted the couple I've bought from them but I never even see those reposted
>>
Question from last thread but thread 404 shortly after:
Any tips on printing flat, square tiles?
I know a FDM printer would be the best solution but I have already 2 resin printer and wont buy am additional FDM one (I only would need about 15 tiles, so not that many) .
The plates would be 12x12x0,5cm (street tiles) in size. Should I print them flat on the bed or upright and put a lot of Supports under one side (if this Option would be possible I could print ca 10 at once and would be done after 2 prints).
>>
>>
>>97368320
the isopropyl alcohol that you use to wash prints is definitely worse for you but people just repeat whatever they read on the internet so they treat resin like it's going to burn a hole through your skeleton
>>
>>
>>
>>97368320
It's not bad at all. I went into it with a head full of horrors from the internet but I set up in my living room, on my pc desk and don't smell a thing. Guests also don't smell it. The alcohol wash is gnarly but only while it's open. Could it be slowly giving me cancer? maybe. idgaf lol
>>
>>97367488
Depends on the detail of the surface. If it's flat and smooth you could get away with printing them upright but id they are detailed you'd usually want to have them at an angle to not show layer lines tho that would take the longest over all
>>
>>97368320
It smells fucking horrible for sure. If you are worried about the long term harm, there are product safety sheets out there that will explain the risks better than anyone on 4chan can. My thoughts and experience is that no matter how careful you are with PPE and ventilation, if you print enough you will make mistakes eventually.
You can get these tiny air purifiers that sit inside the printer while it's printing and they do an amazing job at eliminating the smell, however according to air quality monitors they don't really do anything except get rid of the smell.
I completely stopped resin printing because I got a cat. A person risking poisoning themselves is one thing, but to subject an animal to it would be unforgivable.
>>
I'm new to printing and working with FDM. What's the best angle/rotation to use for supporting a slight dome shape? I'm printing little circular shields for 28mm with auto supports and it ends up needing a lot of supports.
>>
File: Screenshot 2026-01-16 212554.png (96.2 KB)
96.2 KB PNG
>>97374584
Nevermind I found a decent angle I'll try this and see if it prints well. The giant raft is because I sometimes get bed adhesion issues with tiny models I don't care if I'm wasting filament.
>>
>>97367488
Do you have a makerspace around you? 120mm square is a whole lotta suction, even tilted (which you need to do, unfortunately; I don't think you get into build plates that go that wide until you're talking about high end prosumer stuff). And you're easily burning a couple bucks of resin a shot.
>>
File: 273498573492876.png (1.3 MB)
1.3 MB PNG
What's the heat tolerance of resin left inside a hot car? I can find lots of information on the subject when it comes to filament types, but then info seems very fuzzy for printed resin. Would be good to know for the purpose of transporting minis from place to place.
>>
>>
File: 1758720278387508.jpg (161.1 KB)
161.1 KB JPG
>>
File: 1745035563472385.jpg (130.4 KB)
130.4 KB JPG
>>97386750
>>
>>
File: 1763329954255835.jpg (196.1 KB)
196.1 KB JPG
>>97386975
>>
File: 1741576415289724.jpg (167.2 KB)
167.2 KB JPG
>>97388524
>>
>>97365578
I think it comes down to what kind of aesthetic you're looking for. If you look for the Kli-San on MMF you'll find a tank that proxies to a russ rather well, and I've seen people resin print those.
>>97369149
What tanks have you printed so far?
I'm looking to print one soon, just trying to work out hollowing, and drain holes for the mini atm. It'll be a week or so until the resin I want to use is in, but I'll post an update when I do.
>>97389958
These look sick, what kind of resin are you using?
I've been looking at trying out ABS-like resin for my next purchase, has anyone had experience with it?
>>
>>
File: 1750865914920402.jpg (179.2 KB)
179.2 KB JPG
>>97392093
>>97392430
I don't really see a reason not to use ABS-like
>>
File: Titania and the Carnidons.jpg (324.5 KB)
324.5 KB JPG
>>97360034
Monsterpocalypse is the Easter eggs this year. They may just want to fight em or paint em and that's okay too. But I'm going to try for getting em into the game.
>>
File: Terra Khan post dip.jpg (358 KB)
358 KB JPG
>>97394393
And the headliner fresh out the dip.
Each kiddo is gonna get 2 monsters, 10 of the shitlings from the faction it comes from, and and 8 buildings.
>>
File: mistake.jpg (806.6 KB)
806.6 KB JPG
giving people access to AI that generates printable STLs was a mistake
nobody should have that much power
>>
>>
>>
>>
hey. i got fucked over in an trade via the german version of craigs list (technically speaking) and i need some replacements for imperial knight armour panels. As long as they dont look like chaos knight stuff, do you guys know some decent looking stuff to print out? i was looking on the usual sites but it seems like most of the armor is for a Proxy model, not the actual knight from gwendolyn.
>>
>>97397858
"printable STLs" isn't saying a whole lot with modern sliver tools. aislop models have a lot of problems, but 3d printing conveniently doesn't care about most of them. Thingiverse is completely overrun with aislop now.
>>
>>
>>
>>97397741
Once a proogen of The Emperor's Children, Faction, Viglghnnare canmounted for mac-cannon, swelien and yenning. Its tos ingrand of point-black range. Nacmessec Brother Viacro cattion, and naind in.
Clamon t vitta a progensator of our Chanmought, Viagros, it's colliming thaner of discagre fed cataract: fortees report benon flexing mid with a sound, somewhere -- scream and a Zhmm and this vivo portis cannon agareg fit of fand further service.
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: comparisonfordumbanon.jpg (142.1 KB)
142.1 KB JPG
>>97401442
bambu lab a1 mini 0.2 nozzle using fat dragon games profile and 0.4mm layer
made the supports with resin2fdm plugin
the "shitty" pic is because the mini is 32mm
>>
>>
File: gorgonsergeant.png (367.9 KB)
367.9 KB PNG
>>97401482
>>97400662
Personally, I cant do FDM minis. Everytime someone posts a pic of them, they always have bizarre gunk tacked on to them presumably from where the printer finished on a ledge or something.
Like on the first mini you posted (where you blocked everything else out for some reason?) you can see it on the greaves? Shin armor?.
you say resin-like quality but comparing it to my gorgon (which admittedly could have better clean up) the difference is still staggering.
Does it matter for tabletop? Is anyone really going to care? Will paint and some filing make most of it go away?
No, No, Yes
>>
>>
File: 1744345096893716.jpg (169 KB)
169 KB JPG
>>97392748
>>
File: IMG_0353.jpg (1.7 MB)
1.7 MB JPG
What causes this? Rest of the mini printed fine, but sometimes I’ll be missing a foot, or an arm on some. I’m using a anycubic photon m3. Printed in a garage, but got a lot colder out than I was anticipating.
>>
>>97405944
Probably the cold doesn’t help, get a heat belt for your vat. Also don’t trust the stock Trench Crusade supports, they aren’t very good. Use your unsupported versions and watch this video:
https://youtu.be/-48RKSB4T3U?si=MLOB6sTIeaXAoyZ4
>>
>>
>>97405974
Lychee is awful, frankly. Elegoo’s SatelLite is pretty good (it’s what I generally use, I printed the figs in the OP) but if you absolutely want your prints to work, warm your resin and follow the video.
>>
>>
>>97392093
>I've been looking at trying out ABS-like resin for my next purchase, has anyone had experience with it?
Yes, i print exclusively with it. Standard resin is just to brittle. ABS like have some flex to it which makes the models more durable; the downside is it likes to warp, which creates problems with larger models like vehicles.
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 1000008319.jpg (1.9 MB)
1.9 MB JPG
This is kind of /tg/ adjacent, but does anyone know if someone ever made an STL to make "shelves" for Really Useful Boxes? I know everyone recommends the Duncan video, but for the first time in 3 years, my list doesn't fit 2 bins. I have a bunch of wasted space that could easily be fixed with a print and I figured the youtube video was popular enough that it may very well exist.
>>
>>97407324
Buggy program. Better auto supports in free alternatives. Functions gate kept behind subscription paywall. AI shit being pushed in their model library.
It was good for a time when it was simply better than everything else, but that's no longer the case.
>>
>>
>>97408592
>shelves
Anon, that's something you could model in 3 minutes in something like tinkerCAD.
If you want something like stacking gridfinity on a larger scale, you may need to create it yourself. If you want to nest large models like in your image, you're going to have to create something custom.
The only stuff you're likely to find ready made is going to be fairly generic and not really all that efficient.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6792264
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3576026
>>
>>
>>
>>97408652
I thought I was crazy when I saw how bad the paid autosupports are. It'll cram 4-5 heavy supports onto the bottom of a helmet and then fail anyway. I actually went back to the free ones for smaller things because I couldn't be fucked to manually support some shoulderpads or something. As long as you pre-orient the models, the free autosupport does a decent enough job. I still manually support anything bigger than a marine, however.
>>
>>
>>
anyone have the new thornfall minis from this month's warmachine tribe
i really need more piggies in my life but seeing how most of it is included in the welcome pack i dont really feel like paying for a full month's worth for minis that are probably gonna fail constantly in my printer (the iconoclasts would also be neat, i kinda lost interest in the tribe/entire concept of printing a few months back)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97414764
No I meant 3d scanning service. Like I mail the bits and they get scanned and preferably sent back to me and I get the obj or stl files that are also clean too via email.
How much on average would it cost?
>>
>>
File: buildplateadhesion..png (887 KB)
887 KB PNG
Need some help in determining what the problem is and what to do.
>Pic related
It looks like the print is failing to stick on one side. This isnt an isolated issue, recent prints have all had bizarre failures related to the side. Just in those ones, I could still ignore it as it would only fuck up the supports. But now its failing to stick even the bottom layer.
Obviously this seems to be a build plate adhesion failure right? Should I sand it down? Only the right side or the whole plate? Or should I just order another one?
>>
>>
File: 20260121_104657.jpg (366.8 KB)
366.8 KB JPG
I made a steam tank
>>
>>
>>97418174
If it fails so early, it must be problems with the adhesion of the first layers.
So most probably is:
-wrong settings, maybe a bit longer burn in layers
-not leveled properly, relevel
-film has a problem, maybe hole, maybe not screwed in tight enough
-left peel on something, take it off
-light source or screen broken, put a paper sheet on it and use the test mode to see if it lights evenly
-severe draft, one side of printer is colder so cures worse, so warm or add cure time
>>
File: file.png (158.4 KB)
158.4 KB PNG
What are my best options for stacking resin prints like pic related? My printer goes fast, but I'm gone for most of the day so I'd rather have a single tall print to get as much done as possible. I have only ever used Lychee so I'm not sure what software I'd want for this.
>>
File: 1750890116886442.png (1.9 MB)
1.9 MB PNG
brintin deez
>>
Hi, first time posting. I pulled a 3d printer out of storage that I've never used. I kickstarted it years ago and its been boxed up since then.
The Elegoo Jupiter 6K, whats the general consensus on it?
I recently started DMing again and am about 33 sessions in. Now I wanna print some stuff in 15mm scale.
I also want to try newer ABS-like resin, in hopes that the shit I print isnt super brittle. I hear Sunlu is good.
>>
File: 1745355795379913.jpg (232.3 KB)
232.3 KB JPG
>>97418881
da great angel
>>
File: 1742458501278281.jpg (271.8 KB)
271.8 KB JPG
>>97419739
couple russians and a devgru
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
What are the best resources for learning to do 3d sculpting in blender? I'd like to separate heads from some files or create different types of joints for others. How difficult these things are for complete amateurs?
>>
>>
>>97420204
Artisans of Vaul on YouTube if you’re wanting to learn re-posing. But you’re better off starting with MeshMixer for head/equipment swaps, look up TechClub and Billie Ruben on YouTube. I learned head/weapon swaps in about 30 minutes with MeshMixer following their vids.
>>97420227
Top of the line are HeyGears but they are fucking expensive. I run an Elegoo Saturn 4 16k and it’s 85% as good for 50% of the price.
If you’re wanting FDM, Bambulabs are extremely good for the price, the A1 is great, especially for terrain.
>>
>>97419983
Did a quick search and there’s strangeplastic which is a service recommended by Wargames Atlantic to get their stls printed that offers a scanning service and another result was zealot miniatures.
I’m not sure if zealot is legitimate and I’m also not sure if the businesses will charge more than what the average industry rate would be.
I am most certainly not trusting an Etsy service. At least unless I know it is legitimate but even then I’m not sure.
>>
>>
File: 1769020778485983.jpg (228.6 KB)
228.6 KB JPG
>load yesterdays project
>half of models turned into a mess
huh
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 1755370272017262.png (2.1 MB)
2.1 MB PNG
>>97421891
oobs :DD
>>
File: printedkindoffailure.png (2.1 MB)
2.1 MB PNG
>>97418381
Thanks for the suggestions anon, il run through some of them
>Wrong settings
Typically always did 15sec bottom but cranked it up to 25sec and its still resulted in pic
>Not leveled properly
Could be, One time when fixing a failure I could've sworn the tilt mechanism was uneven
>Film has a problem, left peel
Its happened before the recent film, and this film is a brand new one. Whats weirder is that I've already done a few prints that have come out fine
>Light source is broken
Maybe? Doubtful because it still does a vat clean, and I've pulled off the resin tank and done a check. Whole LCD lit up like it should be
>severe draft
Could be, the side thats bugging out is by my cold ass window. Although its inside of a grow tent and the window is pretty well isolated, altough that still leaves cold air seeping in from the bad air funnel which comes directly from that right top corner.
>Also pic related
Even after the unsticking bottom layer I decided to say fuck it and keep printing. It resulted in this monstrosity? where it seems the supports bugged out. The print itself is fine, with the exception of a few superficial looking errors that can be cleaned with a knife and a file.
Anyway thanks for reading my blog, I might just wait until winter to determine if its cold weather or if it needs to be manually levelled.
>>
>>97420227
The real answer is anything related to dentistry. If you want real good details, and a infinite budget. Anything built for dentistry is top of the line shit. Heygears is one of them like that anon mentioned.
>>
File: 1751345801442128.png (585.5 KB)
585.5 KB PNG
>>97421901
>>
File: 20260109_150436.jpg (994 KB)
994 KB JPG
What settings from Bambu A1/A1Mini profiles can I carry over onto a different printer? I tried just copying profiles from FDMminiatures and Fatdragongames whole-hog but supports cling like a bitch on both and the quality is a visible step down on both the top/bottom layers. Resin2FDM also doesn't seem to cooperate due to what I'm assuming is too high a speed for the support trees or bad automatic placement.
>>
File: Screenshot 2026-01-22 161235.png (385.1 KB)
385.1 KB PNG
>>97416731
Ye I'm making it chunkier.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: asteriusknight.png (966 KB)
966 KB PNG
*mogs you*
Let me add some quality to this thread.
Rest of armor is being kept separate for now, make it easier to paint him up.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: Untitled.jpg (31.8 KB)
31.8 KB JPG
How quickly is detail lost when you scale a model up?
I have a file of a little parrot, 25mm across diameters what happens if I double it
>>
>>
>>
File: Orks.jpg (964.7 KB)
964.7 KB JPG
Printed up some Orks and with these I finally have 2k worth of models. I also started a Dreadnought this afternoon so I should have it all done too by the end of the day. I'm glad I got the Elegoo Saturn 4 with the heated tank cuz it is cold out
>>
>>
>>97434043
Scaling up is no issue, models meant for 6mm scale look a little bland at 32mm but okay at 15mm.
Scaling down is the issue, trying to print a 32mm scale mini at 6mm is likely going to fail because parts become too thin or fragile and detail gets filled in
>>
>>
File: PXL_20260125_222254596.jpg (5.1 MB)
5.1 MB JPG
Made a custom sisters of sigmar imperial nobility blood bowl team with some mordheim sculpts and some hands I cut up in blender. Think they came out pretty solid for a kitbash
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
So on my Saturn 3 Ultra I noticed when I set Z to 0 if I then press Back to Zero it seems to be way higher than where I set it to. I just had 2 prints in a row fail and now I'm wondering if this was always the case or if its a problem I have to troubleshoot? Really starting to regret not getting the 4 so I could autolevel.
>>
File: 1000008414.png (151.2 KB)
151.2 KB PNG
>>97443775
Here's my settings for what it matters. It just suddenly stopped working on my last print so I cleaned the screen with IPA, retightened the plate, relevelled the thing, put all new resin in after running the tank clean and pulling out the debris, and then it failed again.
Last week, it was failing in the top right corner, and things were starting to peel off the plate, which is where the inline fan is screwed to the table. I figured the vibrations were affecting it. I got a 16×16x3 stone slab to go under it, and that's when my problems started. My setup has a temperature controlled heater inside a grow booth, so it's not like temp is the issue.
>>
>>
>>97443876
Also
https://youtu.be/Tf8QAC2cqOU?si=OGLhGPxuDTfaMnwO
>>
File: IMG_3597.jpg (1.8 MB)
1.8 MB JPG
Yesterday’s print, a bunch of Snobs and a Stump Gun + crew for Turnip 28. Sculptor is ‘Leech Lover Laboratory’ on MyMiniFigs. Saturn 4 ultra 16k, Sunlu ABS-like, 1.6s exposures.
>>
>>
File: 42237DD3-6EE7-4A81-B738-8DEDBD71FB60.jpg (6.2 KB)
6.2 KB JPG
Found some scans.
What’s the best way to edit off plastic frame parts, remove mouldlines and generally convert the model to resemble the original CAD file?
This can be done in blender right?
Generally I’m trying to remove all scanning visual artifacts.
>>
>>
>>97449814
The popular opinion here is using meshmix. Look up a youtube tutorial on how, but how i've done it is by selecting all of the polygons of the not wanted bit and then hitting the remove and make normal button.
>>
>>97448087
Unfortunately have had a shit time with layers not coming off the FEP when printing fodders. Almost every print has partial failures and can’t seem to figure out why. Going to try cones of calibration and bed levelling.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: imagen_2026-01-28_174138718.png (43.3 KB)
43.3 KB PNG
remember kids, if the licer suggest this as auto supports, is probably not a great idea.
>>
>>
>>
File: 1000008426.jpg (1.7 MB)
1.7 MB JPG
Ctan shards being exclusively in the monolith box is both a retarded and greedy idea. So, of course, that's what GW does.
>>
>>
Hey /3dpg/.
According to the thumbnail of the slop video linked in this post:
>>97459092
There has been a big leak of gw CAD files.
I have the piracy app but never heard of this so I’m not sure if it is true or clickbait or if I managed to miss it.
What’s the right directions to getting to the leaked files if the clickbait thumbnail is true though?
Best to have the answer in the standard encryption too.
>>
>>97462179
It wasn't GW cad files, it was a clickbait thing about some scans of models which are not hard to find. See >>97360711
That youtuber is notorious for just making shit up about GW when there are already legitimate reasons to criticize them.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97462528
that's just escher gangers with space marine forearms and lower legs, tack on a chaos guardsmen pauldron and badda-bing, you've got picrelated.
Digital kitbash for this project, then you can rescale the leg and arm bits just right.
>>
>>
File: 29_125758584.jpg (410.1 KB)
410.1 KB JPG
Bottom printed fine, stuck to the plate and then somehow the rest printed like this.
I think i had it too flat and needed to angle it more?
I'm still new to this, no bully
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97466090
>Bottom stuck fine
>Image of bottom very not stuck fine
From the size of the bottom layer in that other print I'd say you probably have it set long enough. If I were you Anon i'd sooner look at the temperature of the resin
>>
>>
>>97365578
I use resin for tanks. It really isn't an issue as long as your models are designed for it, which most are.
I have printed Rogal Dorn 1:1s on a Mars. Sure it took about 4 plates over a few days, but it worked great.
>>
>>
>>97466090
It adhered fine to the build plate, so you have burn in times that are fine to work, but they could overdo it a bit. As the other anon said, they look a bit thick, which could be because of too long burn in times or too cold resin that is still viscous so the layers are not as thin as they should be. Both can cause more problems down the line.
Furthermore, we can see that supports stopped right after the base layers. Did it stop printing right away, or did the whole model rip off at a later layer? To know that just look at what was left in the vat, was it a pancake or a half a model?
If it was the first, it could be the transition layers, support thickness, wait time before light, lift speed, temperature
If it was the second, it also could be orientation of the model
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97468387
just sitting outside? I probably wouldn't, even not in direct sunlight, i'd worry too much about exposure and random shit messing with it. a bird lands on your box, fucks it up and dies. or if a kid can be anywhere near it. but outside in a grow box? Yeah, that'd probably be fine. Hell even just a big opaque tub over it. (please still wear a mask when you open it)
I print in my shed, with the windows and doors open (at least when its not the -5 it is right now) and haven't had any problems. obviously wearing a respirator when I'm going into it.
>>
File: 1742395730639740.jpg (359.6 KB)
359.6 KB JPG
Trying to print small bits like grenades, pouches, trinkets etc is a fucking nightmare. They always gets lost during post processing for me.
>>
File: file.png (2.1 MB)
2.1 MB PNG
>>97470073
buy some aluminum insect screen
then cut it into form and fold it like a cube to then lay it into the washing station
the mesh is fine enough to catch all the small shit but not completely closed off so that the prints get still washed
>>
>>
how would you calculate "how much" is a fair price to charge somebody for a print?
the slicer will give you an estimated ammount based on price and resin. but this does not consider the Fep degradation, and other materials. or the work of cleaning and removing supports.
I usually go for 3 times the resin cost, but... should I be a little more greedy? specially if im not making the money back.
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: IMG_20260130_160746.jpg (238.6 KB)
238.6 KB JPG
I would appreciate any help in finding out what causes this kind of... shredding? It happens on large and small prints, but not every time. I am only printing highly rated stuff at the moment from Maker World since this is my first printer.
I am using a P1S, and the filament is being fed through a standard AMS. This is Bambu PETG. I haven't adjusted the settings whatsoever. I want to work out any of the kinks (or as many of them as possible). Any help would be appreciated.
>>
>>97471637
you didn't support the inside of that arch, how is filament supposed to to get laid down over thin air and stay nice and pretty? you can get away with spanning short gaps, but not that.
support your stl lie it was going to resin, export that as a new stl (make sure to use big supports lie 4mm wide with tips of around 1mm or so then export that as an stl and then slice it for FDM.
you'll use a lot more filament if you do it auto support btw, so tell lychee to not life the print and manually lace your own supports in places like that arch that need them, lychees FDM autosupports are total garbage, but resin style supports work really well when made large enough.
>>
For anyone else that uses chitubox, looks like they rolled out a new update. Now can cut connectors into models, which will be pretty nice for printing out tanks and shit. Dont know too much about the model protection box they brought in too. Seems redundant? Thoughts?
>>97470254
I've taken entire business classes dedicated to this question anon, you cant really answer it fully without going really in depth. But to try to anyways, a small summary is a minimum price of parts+labor (kind of like cars and mechanics) where you decide whatever your time is worth. Typically want it at a sweet spot where enough customers will buy from you, but not too much you're overloaded.
Alternatively you can say fuck all that, look at how much online retailers charge and do that.
>>
File: chitubox update.png (207.8 KB)
207.8 KB PNG
>>97472107
forgor to add pic of the stupid email they sent damn
>>
>>97472107
>Typically want it at a sweet spot where enough customers will buy from you, but not too much you're overloaded.
or the non-greedy option where you take the mean of the value of parts+labor as your profit, so your profit averages to 30ish percent over the raw value.
If you have too many customers you can always say "sorry I'm all booked" and if you have not enough customers then whatever your selling is either undesirable or too easy for others to produce for themselves, in either case that tells you that attempting to market that product or service is a waste of time.
>>
File: 61fePJAf2pL._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_.jpg (87 KB)
87 KB JPG
>>97470073
Get a couple of tea infuser/strainer ball things.
>>
>>
>>
>proxy stl I thought I have is taken down
>don’t have access to external ssd because away from home
>search on piracy app and got nothing
Well then it looks like my only option is here.
What’s the protocol for requesting a specific stl from here as a last resort?
Is it still a request and an offer with the usual encryption?
>>
>>97469949
I used to print inside in a bathroom, and thought the weenie little ventilation fan that keeps mildew from growing on the walls would be enough. It wasn't. I don't have any other space to print but outside in a space that only gets direct sunlight for a few hours a day.
Printing FDM outside in the open air has been an experience that I can't recommend to anyone for what that's worth.
>>
>>
File: 1759737220777241.jpg (172.8 KB)
172.8 KB JPG
went from .05mm to .03mm. i'd say the 30 extra minutes of print time is worth
>>
>>
>>
>first print
>looking at sunlu's parameters for their abs-like resin
>"almost a minute for the first layers is absurd"
>follow it anyways because I can't find other ones
>printer makes horrible noises when printing the first layers
>like someone crunching a bunch of rocks
>test print is done after about an hour
>trying to get the print off the plate
>use the plastic spatula
>it breaks
>go for the metal one
>it gets the job done
>check plate
>oh shit resin is flowing down into the piston thingamabobs of the mars 5 ultra that make it oscillate
>clean up
>start the next print
Damn how I missed doing this all over again. I haven't dialed in the settings yet but I'm having a lot of fun.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: WTF_Dog.png (546.6 KB)
546.6 KB PNG
>>97477431
For ABS-like resin, a minute is absolutely absurd, even 30 seconds is crazy (for me atleast).
>>use the plastic spatula
Oh dear god anon, thats for cleaning the tank. Well, atleast its better it breaks early, plastic can wear down and eventually cause holes in the FEP sheet so get a silicone instead.
>>
File: 1744870038925323.png (186.5 KB)
186.5 KB PNG
>>97477431
what is u doin dawg
>>
>>97478526
>>97478998
I fucking knew it. I fucking knew it. They do live in la la land. I never heard of a resin that needs an entire fucking minute for the bottom layers but last time I printed something was more than half a decade ago and even then when I saw that shit when ordering I knew they were full of shit. Well I still have the plastic spatula from my old printer so that's not a big loss.
>>
>>
>>
>>97475977
I’m worried that I don’t have the stl on my storage device which is back at home.
But I guess I’ll wait until I get home to check.
>>97477135
I wish bro.
>>
File: img17517.jpg (144.4 KB)
144.4 KB JPG
Anyone know a creator with decent STLs of chunky Cavemen, Cavewoman and Simians? Unfortunately most sculpts I found are spindly and realistic. I want something bulky and retro. I found SeventhBasilisk's cavewomen which look nice but he has no male sculpts unfortunately.
>>
>>
File: bottlebetter.png (218.2 KB)
218.2 KB PNG
>>97481021
Look at the pic he posted again. Even the Mono (spelled incorrectly it seems) recommends 55s bottom layer exposure time.
Whats weird is that directly on the bottle, there are significantly better settings
>>
>>
File: image1 (6).jpg (2.5 MB)
2.5 MB JPG
>>97472122
>>
File: basesplit.png (434.9 KB)
434.9 KB PNG
>>97484255
Heres the split function in action, its nice when printing larger bases, this is a 170mm.The little line in the middle is kind of visible, but hopefully some paint will end up hiding it.
>>
>>
File: 20260202_033556.jpg (563.7 KB)
563.7 KB JPG
Does Orca just automatically make .06mm profiles for nozzles under a certain height? AFAIK mine (.25mm) should only go down to .08. Gave it a whirl anyway and it doesn't look too terrible (granted the fuckoff bright orange is likely helping with that).
>>
>>
>>97484263
If you are gluing it together with ca, just rub some baking powder into the crack, that should help.
Of course something like greenstuff would work better, but I guess the chances of you having baking soda are way higher.
>>
File: map room by cizjut.png (739.9 KB)
739.9 KB PNG
This is my latest project, just debating how to paint it
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: IMG_20260202_234413.jpg (2.2 MB)
2.2 MB JPG
Can someone tell me what this issue is called? The cracking (and the weird, deformed lines as well). This part of the print was not an overhang, it was printed vertically so I am confused about it. Also, it doesn't happen on every edge on this print. This particular print has six similar corners, but it only happened on two of them.
>>
>>
>>
File: print compar.jpg (317.1 KB)
317.1 KB JPG
Tried the heavily shilled meme printer with a 0.2mm nozzle, default settings, brand new filament, and I understand now why it's so heavily shilled. Not resin quality, but damn close by my eyes.
>are those cobwebs inside the resin print?
>it's been sitting in a drawer for a couple years...
>>
>>97491036
This is caused by slack in belts or gears as it reverses the direction of travel. You'll find it happens each time it doubles back on itself in that axis of movement. Reorientation might help you keep the issue minimised, or if it's a belt printer, you can tighten that belt.
>>
File: IMG_20260203_062523~2.jpg (273.4 KB)
273.4 KB JPG
>>97491797
Damn, really? Well, not a huge deal but that doesn't bode well. This thing only has 75 hours of print time. What about this? This was printed horizontally, so this is an overhang but I filled the overhang with supports. Now, I want to mention that this is happening with or without supports. I tested both just to see.
>>
>gifted solar auxilia leman russ by a friend
I want to pimp this thing out.
Found sponson stls and a mini gun barrel for the turret but I can’t seem to find stls for track guards for it that cover the front back and middle for the tank.
I did find track guards but they don’t cover the front section sadly.
I could use some specific links for such an stl.
I’ve exhausted my googlefu knowledge.
>>
>>
>>97492001
Check your slicer before doing what >>97492564 says
Looks like it could just be the pathing for such narrow walls at that angle it's trying to achieve
>>
>>97492982
What should I look for in the slicer? I want to use Orca, but for some reason it will never send the project over to my printer (even though it sees it, it's on the same network, account, etc.) so I've have to use the regular Bambu one.
>>
>>
>>97492230
go to the pirate site next time, lazy slut
https://gofile.io/d/rxLhUR
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 20260203_145018.jpg (2.1 MB)
2.1 MB JPG
Steam powered war wagon. Lots of little support issues, so I'm going to have to redo it, but it came out better than I thought it would.
>>
>>97495325
The given reason is that the MicroSD cards or USB drives they put in there tend to be Temu-tier. If you're files for your prints are only backed up there, and then it dies, welp. It's a CYOA for retards, more or less. If you have your print files saved locally, whatever.
>>
File: WhatsApp Image 2026-02-03 at 8.05.30 PM.jpg (78.1 KB)
78.1 KB JPG
Is my fep to tight? or maybe the bottom layers are not exposed long enough?
because stuff keep snapping even if the model is almost done, some times it makes it fine, others it fails at the bottom of the bath
>>
>>
>>
>>97495149
I'm
>>97491797
>>97492982
I meant to check where the path goes in your sliced file. Is there anything in the planned route that could be causing this behaviour? You have thin walls and the software might be doing stupid things with the infill between them. Before you start changing components like some anons are suggesting, you want to root cause where your problems are coming from. Changing more things will just introduce new variables that make it hard to understand what is happening in your machine, although there's always the chance you just get lucky and it was being caused by one of those parts.
>>
File: 36C1FD29-D8EC-461D-AFA7-BE5B01A1060E.jpg (172.7 KB)
172.7 KB JPG
>>97495195
I didn’t find any stl I was looking for on the yar har app.
And when I did, the one stl would only go as far as pic related. On the plastic Horus heresy leman russ tank.
Do those stls you linked go farther? Any contact info to the creator so I can ask or commission him to make headlight versions of those track guards please?
>>
File: fdm mini.jpg (483.1 KB)
483.1 KB JPG
>>97491523
I need to see what I can adjust to make FDM supports easier to remove
>>
>>97496922
There is the possibility that stuff sticks to the fep too hard and rips stuff off, but that will look flat, bent.
So that means going back to the same things everyone can try to help bottom layers.
It could be the transition layers, support thickness, wait time before light, lift speed, temperature
>>
>>
kek James hit my eBay page with copyright claims.
to be fair I am selling their designs 1 to 1 and for a literal fraction of what they charge, but they can suck my dick. my fellow wargamers WILL get their jump packs and helmets for a reasonable price. death to Britain
>>
>>
>>97499180
that's what I'm planning on yeah. eBay doesn't do anything the first time an item gets struck, they just delist it and tell you it was flagged by the IP owner and not to relist it. so naturally I'll change the listing's wording a little bit, maybe take some new pictures, and relist it. kek
>>
>>
Man, I can't find a proper MK7 set anywhere. Only found some bits here and there. There is a shitton of great Primaris stuff as well as MK2-6, but no fucking MK7. Cursed armor mark legitimately.
Kinda makes sense now that I think of it. Mk2-6 are needed for HH, Primaris for 40k and thus MK7 is useless.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: print compar 2.png (582.5 KB)
582.5 KB PNG
>>97497865
>>97491523
tried adjusting settings
how is a brand new print fresh off the printer already covered in dust and cat hair
>>97499725
>>97499551
I want to believe that I can get it right
>>
>>