I apologize for fucking up the backlink:
>Previous Thread
>>97821051

>didnt make it to the collage this time
owari da...

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Nothing makes me feel more retarded than using the airbrush. This hellish implement genuinely makes me wonder if tool usage is a human universal. Every single fucking time I fuck up the mix. "Just go for the consistency of skim milk", then I do that, and sometimes it will be basically spraying water on the model, other times I'll get a clog. Then the trigger, I'll be spraying normally then suddenly it becomes a fucking paint shotgun. I don't fucking get it. Why can't I wrap my head around it at all? Why did I pick up an artistic hobby when I am retarded? How am I being filtered by mixing fucking paints?

>>97841034
watch the spray, not the mix, test and adjust as needed

>>97841034
I prefer the wisdom of the H&S video where they recommend you mix in a dish and then test how it drips to check the consistency. I don't tend to prod skimmed milk in a dish, so I struggle to relate it to paint
Honestly, airbrushing can be a breeze for some paints and a nightmare for others, so I wouldn't say this is exclusively a "you" thing. I struggle like fuck to get red to spray neatly without clogging or sputtering, and it seems to want to turn into a stretchy latex consistency when drying even if thinned properly

>>97841034
If that would make you feel better, I still couldn't figure out why I get internal (inside nozzle, around the needle) drying problem and after being convinced it must be related to imperfections of parts of my Chinese (Polish-Chinese, to be honest) airbrush, I bought H&S Evolution - only to find out that problem persist. So I wasted money to get very expensive tool only to find out that problem lied elsewhere. Oh and factory workers screwed some elements like needle handle so tight that I had to use tools and WD40 to unscrew it (used clothes for securing the surface to prevent scratches but middle golden part still got some).

If you are retarded, that makes two of us.

>>97841034
Anon, are you still struggling with the airbrush? I was reading your posts in the past few threads, but I was in a country that's IP rangebanned, so I couldn't reply. Guide me through your process, from mixing paints (ratios, what kind of paints/thinners/flow improvers you use, how do you mix them, what colors are you trying), tell me what compressor are you using/what PSI, tell me how do you actually spray (are you using proper technique?), and how long do you keep the paint inside your airbrush, too. I'm pretty sure you are doing some elementary thing wrong, and that's solvable.
t. airbrush autist

btw "Just go for the consistency of skim milk" is a retarded advice. It's true, but retarded. Better way to know if you have your paints thinned enough is to just dip some shitty old brush into it, and let the drop of paint fall down; it shouldn't have any strings or similar, it should be just a pure drop, the moment the liquid is taking it's time or have a "tail", you need to thin more.

>>97841034
As always, needle size? Small needles clog exponentially faster.

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Any anons in here with a good substitute for Imotekh's fuckass pedestal? It's such an absurd tactical rock.

>>97841006
I think that was old WIP banner anyway, I see pics from two threads ago.

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How should I shave off this kind of residue on a 3d print? Is it files like regular plastic or should I use sandpaper or try scraping it?

>>97841076
scraping would ruin the finish, use different grits of sandpaper/sanding sticks

>>97836922
Did a little bit more but still looking for feedback before I fully commit.

>>97841059
I don't want to impersonate somebody else by accident but by saying *posts in the past few threads", do you mean anon, who had problem with paint drying inside the nozzle and not on the tip, clogging airbrush after few minutes of usage? Because I reported such problems fee times, desperately trying to find some solution but again, don't want to "jump in place" of somebody else that might need help more.

>Mix milliput
>Sculpt some bases
>A week later prime and paint them
>Glue the minis on them
>Start trimming the edges to make it neater
>The milliput is still soft
FUUUUUUCK

>>97841160
Yes. You also got Evolution, right?

>>97841168
Yup. Also tried Tamiya paints (acrylics) with their thinner to test out since they are alcohol based and thus some sort of "autocleaning", they didn't clog but after spraying there was still present paint inside the nozzle.

Overall, I find that Evolution harder to work with - trigger moves easily back now (used to work hard at beginning) but it still puts visible resistance when I press it for air and nozzle itself is quite long, longer than my longest synthetic brush I would normally use to clean it.

>>97841162
seems like you used the wrong proportion when mixing anon, it should be fully hard in less than 24 hours

>>97841183
I wanna help out, but I need you to describe the entire process, anon.
>nozzle is long
In normal use, you don't have to worry about nozzle at all, just clean the needle from time to time with a brush dipped into cleaner, or just with your fingers.
Wait, you aren't opening/messing with the nozzle with the paint inside your airbrush/cup, right?

>trying a different color scheme
>don't like it at first
>thought it would grow on me once I do some more work
>it didn't
Oh well, time to strip it. At least it was only 2 sessions worth of time.

>>97841213
Could be worse.
>trying a color scheme
>like it
>paint it on more dudes
>start hating it
>strip the paint off my army
>reprime everyone
>start thinking about other ways to paint them
>end up painting them in the same way but with a different metallic color

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>>97840919

>>97841189
I mixed half/half, but it was old and unsealed so I guess it somehow got bad

>>97841209
No, I always empty the cup and flush it with water/cleaner before opening.

As for process, after setting up pressure (tried 1.2, 1.5, 1.8, 2.0 bar) I would pour thinner first into the cup, then paint, keeping thinning at 1:1 ratio or slightly more thinner than paint (which would usually cause paint to flow pretty easily inside the cup, I also tried replacing roughly 20% of thinner part with flow improver), more thinner would make paint flow on the sprayed surface and visibly moisture paper when sprayed on it. I would mix it with soft, long brush inside the cup, tried mixing outside but it would only mean wasting a lot of paint that was left in tray and I once accidentally caught some dried up lump with it and completely jam the nozzle (really, when I noticed that needle would not return to "standby" position I knew that things went south bad). After done spraying, I would clean it by first using that squeeze bottles to remove whatever was left in cup with water, wipe gently inside of cup and add some cleaner (Vallejo one). It was then when I would often notice thin layer of paint on the needle when pulling trigger fully back and if I would try that "bubble back" method, it would blow back paint to the cup - even after few of such flushes.

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so how should i go with these ? red and bronze like on the box ? black and gold ? deep blue and gold ?

>>97841034
Just test it on plastic spoon before spraying

>>97841315
Deep blue and copper/bronze.

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>>97841307
>No, I always empty the cup and flush it with water/cleaner before opening.
There's still no reason to mess with it unless you are cleaning the entire thing.
>the process
Sounds alright. But are you cleaning the needle during spraying? I can't see that in the text. You should be constantly checking up on the needle when you are spraying - the paint sticks there naturally, that's just the nature of the beast, and you need to keep cleaning it to prevent clogging. Smaller nozzle/needle, less pressure (when spraying little, detailed stuff) usually requires more flow improver and more frequent cleaning, and vice versa.
Most people clean it with an old brush soaked in cleaner. A lot of people just use their fingers to remove the paint from the needle - just like picrel (Jose). I prefer the brush method.
Braping the paint back is only good for mixing (and cleaning, when you have a cleaner/clean water in the cup), and I still don't really consider it that optimal, since it often messes up the insides. But if you are already halfway to a clog, don't do it, it will only make the issue worse.

Also, how's your spraying technique? Are you holding it down and just spraying, or are you doing the back and forth movement while keeping the airflow on?

>>97841353
I was checking the needle tip after spraying but it usually remains clean and free from paint. Sometimes when I notice that there is indeed some layer forming here, I would use makeup brush (since they are so soft) with water to clean it. But clogging would still happen.

As for trigger movement, I noticed that a lot of YT guys recommend that pulse trigger movement but I found out that I cannot maintain it consistent (unless I use that limiter on the back) so I simply hold for air, pull back until it start to spray and try to keep it here. I also remember to move it forward to "standby" position before closing air. But often keep air blowing when I adjust position for, say, another line, even with needle not retracted and paint not flowing.

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Brainstorming an idea I should have started weeks ago. What do you think? 32mm or 40mm?

>>97841413
Looks a bit too cluttered on 32mm so I'd go with 40mm, myself

>>97841411
>I was checking the needle tip after spraying but it usually remains clean and free from paint
No no no, no. You NEED to clean the needle regularly DURING spraying, anon. That's literally the most important basic rule of airbrushing. Especially if you are doing acrylics. Experienced airbrush artists do this compulsively every (half a) minute or so, depending on what they are working on. If you don't do this, it WILL lead to clogging. It can give you gradual clogs, too, if you half-ass it. You need to keep the needle as clean as possible. Try doing it with a cleaner instead of water; you can keep just a tiny amount of it in a pot next to you, dip your brush (I use old dry brush, since it is soft, but still abrasive enough) into it, and clean the needle of ALL paint, no matter how little there is.
I can't stress how important this is, especially if you are new and keep your air continuously on (which leads to further drying of the paint on the needle). You can help this by using more flow improver, but you still need to clean the needle regularly during spraying. This is why brushes like Evolution that have the needle directly available, are always better.

Yes, pulsing is the optimal way, because it minimizes clogging and delays the need for cleaning the needle.

Also, are you keeping the paint inside the cup for prolonged periods of time? If so, don't do that. Consider airbrush a wet medium; if you are taking a break for a few minutes or so, it's better to flush the paint, fill the cup with water before leaving. Never keep just the paint inside your cup doing nothing.

>>97841476
Sorry, I mean "after spraying" as in "spray few lines, release trigger and check the needle tip", not after whole process is done. I was just thinking something is wrong since everyone mention this tip drying problem while I didn't notice paint gathering and drying there. But why exactly would keeping air flowing cause further dry? Wouldn't air flow blow away what was left on the tip? And no, I try to avoid leaving paint in the cup, keep it here only for a long as I spray.

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Finished my Notagriff

>airbruschizo still at it
Jesus Christ

>>97841602
It's on topic and not shitposting, I don't mind

>>97841602
Discussing technique and tools is not "schizo"? If someone would try to wonder why his paint dries to fast on their 0s brush, would you call them schizo too?

>>97841629
*now

Fucking autocorrect, I wish I could turn this off completely.

>>97841637
you can, it's called not phoneposting

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This guy took a lot of fiddling to get looking decent on a 25mm base. Sort of a heavy handgunner concept. A more industrialized appearance than the other handgunner.

Still deciding on his side arm, I was kind of thinking a falchion would look cool. They have that sort of weighty and mass produced appearance to them compared to the fancier renaissance and late medieval swords. I think it would fit the aesthetic well. I was thinking of maybe hanging a little pan or something from his blanket roll there on the shield, to give him a real "on campaign" self sufficient kind of appearance.

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Happy Easter!
Updated elf pic, I'm liking the red more than the purple

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And one with the gem

>>97841627
>>97841629
>noooo guys I tried fucking absolutely literally everything but I cant airbrush properly no matter what it must be some kind of weird pocket dimension where my airbrush wont work properly no matter what i swear guise!!!!!!!!!111!!!one!

>>97841810
Better throw it all into trash instead of trying to find out probably overlooked but elementary cause that everyone else no longer even consider? God forbid discussing painting techniques in /WIP/ thread.

>>97841810
yeah we should instead argue about varnishes, highlighting black, primers or whatever the fuck craftsperg decides to shitpost about today

>>97841521
>Wouldn't air flow blow away what was left on the tip?
Some, but when it's already dried a bit, it will only make it worse. Which is bound to happen unless you clean it regularly.

Anyway, have you tried different compressors? And, you bought it directly from HS? If so, you tried contacting them? If not, is the place where you bought it actual place, or just an eshop? If they have an actual store, it might be a good idea to literally bring the airbrush there and try it out. Or at least send them a message, asking them about the issue.
Btw, if you are from EU, you should be able to buy something and return it in 14 days no questions asked. Might be worth trying different compressors that way.

>use lacquer
>smell lacquer thinner
>Never have problems with tip dry, paint drying on the nozzle, or going bankrupt because acrylic thinner is overpriced trash

>>97841861
>use acrylics
>never have problems with tip dry, paint drying on the nozzle, or going bankrupt
huh.
Same thing with enamels, btw.

>>97841869
There is no acrylic paint that doesn’t cause tip dry

>>97841034
you bought the model with the trigger preset dial why aren't you using it?

>>97841904
Yes, but you can just clean it, you know. Takes less than three seconds.

>>97841857
I don't think that compressor would change anything, even if, I don't really have a choice as I only have Chinese compressors at shops to pick from. But it have that moisture trap at the front, which actually catch some water so I guess it works. Air also flows without issues. Didn't buy from H&S directly but from local shop, emailed H&S about possible causes/solutions but they never replied. 14 days passed long time ago.

I appreciate your help but maybe I'm just unnaturally unlucky.

>>97841861
*cough, cough*

>>97841912
If you’re not careful it will damage the needle, lacquer is better

>>97841935
I'm a big retard and I never managed to damage my needle by just cleaning the tip.

>>97841935
Needles are actually a lot stronger than people assume. Even Chinese cheap ones tips cannot be bent with fingers.

>>97841307
mixing paint in a cup before putting it into the airbrush shouldn't be wasting hardly anything if it's correctly thinned, and if you have lumps in it you aren't shaking it enough.

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Konrad Kurze WIP, I'm slow AF.
Also choosing to make it full silver NMM was not my best choice.

Wish me luck anons

>>97841521
>wouldn't airflow blow away what was left on the tip?
The H&S instructional videos explain that having a dry tip is always a bad thing, and until you've cleaned thoroughly you want to make sure the tip stays wet. They advise having a semi-regular blast through with a large amount of paint when doing detail work to make sure the paint stays wet. Not letting off the air regularly, or using too much air for the amount of paint you're spraying, is probably what's killing your technique.

>>97842165
Seems like airbrushing is a lot harder than what people "paint" it (heh), requiring very precise movements.

>>97842217
It has a knack, like any skill. When you get the muscle memory and habits developed, you won't think anything of it
Also, kek

>>97841592
I like it, how did you weather it?
>>97841315
Maroon, gold and navy blue trim

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Finished off the missile drones and airbrushed the white onto my sub assemblies for a broadside. Just waiting for it to dry and I should finish painting it tonight.

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did this yesterday. it's hot flouro pink irl but the camera wants it to be red

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doin up this one today. my paints are looking a bit grim

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First time in months I genuinely want to abandon miniature and admit it defeated me, being too hard for me to finish. After washes started to work on skin and white (sort of, it's supposed to be white but it will be left this green-like) but I constantly go over the area, strokes are clearly visible and I have actual physical problems focusing my eyes on where brush is supposed to go, sometimes getting double vision if I won't focus back.

>>97842351
I think u might be overthinking it? looks fine to me. r u wearing magnifying glasses or smth?

>>97842252
kawaiii~!

>>97841787
based chad elves

>>97841592
cute

>>97842351
s'aight anon.
Just a couple highlights, and you can be free.

>>97841413
32mm, too much empty space on the 40mm even if u add flowers

>>97841315
do the metals like verdigris and gold and the furs purple and the skins various colours? orange or greens? u have lots of various d00dz so u could do various schemes

>>97842418
Not magnifying, normal glasses, some time ago I started to use +1 glasses since I noticed I have trouble to see some details, now it's a problem with those as well, I'm worried.

>>97842144
Great work on the face

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>>97842247
>How did you weather it
By fucking up the enamel wash and then trying to cover it up with a heavy overbrush. If you like it I'll chalk it up to a happy little accident.

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Wondering if I should re-do and swap the position of the colors on the lightning.

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>>97841787
Happy Easter, anon!

>>97841006
>>97841067
>I think that was old WIP banner anyway
I took the day off from making us a collage. I'll do us one next time.

>>97841914
>emailed H&S about possible causes/solutions but they never replied
Yeah, they tend not to reply to people who didn't buy from them. Tho you could get sneaky, and try commenting under their unlisted Youtube videos (you get a link with a QR code that comes with your airbrush), Warwick tends to reply to all of the comments. You can use my link, too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Nb0N0UBPvI

Otherwise, if you have a hobby or art center nearby, literally take the airbrush there and try it out with other people. Or, try to describe your issue to a Grok or something similar. It's a long shot, AI tends to be retarded as fuck, but it can occasionally find some poor motherfucker on some page 59 Google results that got same issue as you.

>>97842577
What happened? It looks like the paint is peeling.

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Almost finished my Predator

>>97842577
it's cute. Looks like one of those chibi metal slug tanks

>>97842706
AI really can get super retarded due to all the Reddit bullshit it was fed during training, ChatGPT for once assumed that I should use LESS thinner because "it makes paint dry faster". I fail to see a logic here.

Pretty bummer on H&S reply policy but thanks for video tip, maybe I should try that with Evolution video, no idea why they delist it however and how it differs from what they already openly show on their YT channel.

I guess I should spend less time on theorising and more on actual field testing but so far whole setup before and after really takes a lot of time plus breathing in half-mask is problematic (cannot have active ventilation, have to suffice with cardboard box and mask to prevent inhaling whatever would bounce back).

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I'm pretty much done the ghost lady. I don't know what I'm gonna do with the base, probably just phone it in and do some sponge concrete and dust.

>>97842924
I really like the braid here, very fine job.

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>>97842217
>Seems like airbrushing is a lot harder than what people "paint" it

Any tips on how to make a regular sword painted in TMM look interesting? I've seen how a lot of shadows and highlights can make a more interesting shaped weapon look really good, but a sword is usually just a couple of flat planes. I've never managed a sword that I think looks good or draws the eye.

>>97842981
Do what BT anon does.

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>>97842981
shade it with a wash/contrast/glaze in a NMM-ish style

>>97842981
If you have a transparent paint mix a tiny bit of it into your metallic for your base color. You can use the pure metallic as your highlight and the pure transparent to glaze your shadows. Kind of like if you're painting white armor where you need to use white as your brightest highlight since you can't go brighter, instead relying on contrast from your midtone and shadow to make it look white.

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done for today

>>97842998
>>97843017
Ok, so it's mostly about sort of emulating NMM style with light and shadow placement. Just with metal paints. I guess I'll look at how people do NMM on swords and see if that helps. Thanks anons.

>>97842890
>plus breathing in half-mask is problematic
That also shouldn't be an issue. But hey, one problem at a time.
>AI is retarded
Yeah, it is. I had most luck with Grok, when it comes to hobby shit, because for some reason, it seems to prefer scale modelling forums instead of sycophant brainlet faggots on reddit. But it still sometimes spouts retard shit.
>no idea why they delist it
I think it's to filter plebs from flooding the person who answers the comments. They get like five to ten comments under the delisted videos, and these seem like they all have replies.

>>97842981
Seconding this >>97842985 Imo the best approach.

>>97842981
this >>97842985
or this
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsgFPMsnAKE

tldw; push contrast to the extreme

Is there a good alternative for qtips that doesn't leave cotton fibers all over the place? It's a real pain in the ass to be wiping a model down and having litle hairs all over it after

>>97843113
Yes, makeup sponges. Vastly superior, and you can clean and re-use them.

>>97843113
I use eyeshadow applicators.

>>97843113
Latex makeup sponges, you can buy the wedges in bulk and cut them up into whatever sizes and shapes you need. They're absorbent, and the latex ones can be cleanly cut without crumbling like the foam ones do.

>>97842890
>cannot have active ventilation
are you living in a jail cell? you can't open a window and put a fan in it? it's not even winter anymore so you can't use the excuse that it's too cold anymore.

>>97843113
use more expensive qtips. or if you are just wiping them off to remove dust use compressed air or a dry paintbrush.

>>97843107
Evolution have 80 comments, including some funny one (like one guy complaining that he took it apart first and after putting together got bubbles in cup, my first thought was "you didn't screw the head enough" and that was indeed H&S response). But yeah, makes sense.

>>97843174
Actually, it will be 10C tomorrow and at night it can drop to -2C. Due to how my apartment building is located, opening window actually cause wind to blow inside the room instead.

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I still haven't decided what scheme I'll do for my Knights.

>>97843402
That's a big commitment too. I wouldn't want to have to make that decision. Not only are they expensive, you have to spend like 30 hours just building them properly.

I like that we all agree that BT anon has essentially perfected Black Templar.

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>>97840919
Finished my 10x ratlings
>>97842924
Looks great

>>97843418
feet.

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How do I get to this level of skill in painting? I want to start painting figures for warhammer, halo flashpoint, and sw legions but Im a perfectionist. Even a lot of the tutorials by experienced painters never look as good as the advertisement pictures, which is understandable, but someone had to do it for the ads so it must be possible I just dont know what to focus on learning. Are they taping to get clean lines? Airbrushing? Do I just pay someone experienced to get this level of quality because itll take too long for me to learn?

>>97843482
>How do I get to this level of skill in painting?
Practice.
>someone had to do it for the ads so it must be possible
They are ads so it's possible if not even likely that the photos have been touched up digitally.

>>97843482
Those aren't very good. Set higher goals for yourself. Even if you miss you were going to end up dead in the coming wars either way.

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>>97843511
>literally didn't even start painting
>set higher goals for yourself
>can't see shit in that picture
>these aren't very good

>>97843528
ngl, I didn't read your post past the first sentence. I still haven't. I just saw you wanting to paint like those mid minis.

>>97843533
ah so you're just a retarded shitposter, got it. I'm nta btw

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I lied

>>97843482
Practice

>>97843482
For starters, none of them were remotely as good when they painted their first minis.
There's years of experience, colour theory, good lighting, good photography and good edition behind these pictures, likely involving half a dozen people to get the final result.
>I'm a perfectionist
In that case, I hope you're willing and ready to spend years and lots of money honing the handful of skills necessary to get to this level.
>Where do I start?
At the beginning. From what you've written, it seems you haven't even painted your first miniature. So, just paint, learn and do it for long enough that you can replicate a paintjob like this. There are no shortcuts or hacks, really.
You could also paypig your way out of this and comission someone, but that's no fun at all.

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Hard times this week brothers
On the bright side, I feel pretty good about the nmm gold, seeing some improvements. Sorry for the slightly blurry photo

>>97843482
Also, those models you posted are 3d renders, not painted models.

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>>97843482
Learn to let go of the perfectionism. You'll get there by painting 1,000 minis, and they the first 999 won't be perfect.

Once you have the skills, there's still a tradeoff between quality and taking too damn long to get through your backlog. Competition minis often take 100+ hours each and you're not going to paint armies like that.

A few tutorials or lessons are worth it because you need direction, not just practice. But I've seen people spend years learning and not doing, and they still can't paint. Find one whose style you like and join their Patreon. Could be Lil Legend Studios, El Miniaturista, Electric Eve, dunno who else. I learned a lot from Lil Legend. I haven't painted all that much, though, so I'm only okay. I'm trying to do more this year.

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paintan some slayers today. experimenting with different red hair colors to diversify my nude chudlings

>>97843617
Aw cute, I can see the colour variations a bit

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>>97843589

>>97843629
Rofl

>>97843612
Some of this girl's comics are funny, but I lump her in with the weird group who go on about their art while their art is like objectively shitty and low effort. A lot of web comic artists are the same way. LavenderTowne on youtube is the same, constantly whinning about AI art while not actually being a good artist herself.
You can still complain about AI art, but at least when it's coming from somebody like Kryjovnik it seems more legitimate when their art is actually halfway decent.

>>97843645
Irrelevant, post minis

>>97843533
You're Norwood 4 at least.

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I present my attempt at Saim-Hann cinnamon, as well as the first eyes I've ever done. Definitely need to make another pass with the glaze layer to make it less spotty.

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Any tips for copying the green, blue and purple skin here?
I'm a sucker for night elves

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>>97843482
Get some minis and prime them. Get a #2 natural sable brush and some decent acrylics meant for minis and start painting. Pay attention to how you can push pigment with the tip of your brush or pull it away from the edge of whatever you're painting.

I'll go as small as a #0 brush, but any smaller and the paint dries as I raise it up to the mini. A fine point on a larger brush is all you need. Good brushes keep a fine point longer.

>>97842869
The blue parts kinda make the black parts seem unfinished by comparison.

>>97843407
Yeah. I've dabbled in some War Dogs which I painted in two schemes I didn't end up adoring before moving into a big one.
They do take a shitton of time to build if due to all the magnetizing. You also have to paint a ton of weapons. It's fun and satisfying because they're such fucking cool models though, and I like painting vehicles.

>>97841162
Can milliput even go bad in that way? I was under the impression that all these kinda two-part things go bad by the active half curing all by itself before you mixed it, resulting in unusable product.

>>97843826
looks like emerald or parker green from vellejo

>>97844007
He probably just didn't mix all the way.

>>97844012
Thanks m8
Any Idea for the blue?

>>97844044
Try citadel altdorf guard blue and calgar blue.

>>97841065
Dirt, rocks, or literally anything else. You could go with the classic stepping on a skull.

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Hair is done and I'm actually quite happy with it. Everything else is mostly just base colors so far. The armor is probably going to be the hardest since I want to try to emulate Miniac's TMM video the best I can.
Only thing I'm stuck on right now is whether to try to make the chest armor read as a burgundy leather and try to differentiate it from the same colored gloves or just make it the same cloth material as the gloves. Not sure how I would make it read as leather. It's not like a vampire really needs armor anyway.

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calling it done on these Bostons

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>>97842873
Thanks! I love metal slug, and if I were better at sculpting rounded surfaces all my vehicles would look like that.

I used spray-primer as was suggested to me, and while it mostly works, I feel like the faces of my models are slightly wrong now

>>97845529
SAD!
How do they look?

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>>97845531
Here is a random Sister who should have a normal face.

>>97845547
She is sideways, brother!

I don't know. It looks like some paint *might* have settled in the recess between the hair and sides of her face, but also it's a sister face. Hard to say because they are so bad to begin with.

>>97843645
If their art is halfway decent, they don't need to fear AI. That's why only bad artists complain.

>>97845529
>>97845547
yeah you clogged the details with excess paint

>>97842890
> I fail to see a logic here.

That's a you-issue tho.thinner evaporates faster than water. More thinner - faster evaporation - dry paint. People invented retarder to counter that.

>>97842890
Thinners have alcohol.
Alcohol is volatile.
Therefore, more thinner in your mix means faster drying.
I agree with AI being retarded but in this case it was right.

>use black primer so you can struggle painting over it with low coverage colors
>slop your entire model with acrylic wash so you can have to repaint all the places it stains
I literally don't understand the eavy metal workflow. it's like it's designed intentionally to make things more difficult than they need to be.

>>97845608
You know as I have gathered experience when it comes to minipainting I've come to appreciate it.
Sure the
basecoat -> wash -> restore basecoat
workflow never made any sense to me but I've come to appreciate the usage of washes to mimic occlusion shadows

If i were to try and 'optimize' it I would
> prime in white
> washes first
> work from there into the highlights

>>97845636
something as simple as "only put the wash where you want it to be darker" would be a huge increase in convenience.

I hate painting.
Thank you.

>>97845680
I mean, sure, but its way more time consuming than just slapping the thing in the whole area.

Lets imagine a face
You can
>carefully add the wash around the eyes, under the nose, mouth, maybe a bit under the cheekbones, wherever the hairline/helmet touches the face, etc
or
>slap the wash in the general area and allow for the wash to deposit into the recesses by itself, removing the excess where you dont want it to be too dark

Idk anon for me the choice is clear

>>97845578
>>97845571
Then why H&S videos talk about 1:1 ratio for "airbrush" lines of paint and when using "normal" lines like Vallejo Game Color, they use 2:1 thinner:paint ratio?

>>97845608
White spray primers are like 10x more likely to fuzz up on you than black.
I used to use them anyway, and if you miss a spot it's a lot more visible than over black. You really have to get all those spots between a space marine's chest and bolter, and all those spots behind his backpack. Not a big deal now, but when I was new it was a lot more work. Also, colors that don't cover well aren't great over white, either. I've some some patchy-ass Blood Angels.

But yeah, they should've taught targeted wash applications instead of slopping it on. The latter works great with oils and not too badly with Contrast paints if someone teaches you that you can use a brush to remove it from where it isn't supposed to be. Both can be manipulated longer than washes can.

>97845862
Not my problem, airbruschizo

>>97846012
The only schizo here is you.

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Painted the eyes on this lil dude yesterday. I'm pretty happy with how they look, but I'm tempted to brighten the red further

>>97843416
I would say so.

>>97845862
Thinning depends on the color/paint used, and on your need. 1:1 is usually a safe bet or starting point with most regular acrylics, but otherwise it's all individual. For example, I use 1:1 (paint : vince's airbrush mix) with most of the greens I use, apart from Vallejo Luftwaffe Green (probably my favorite green color), which comes a bit thicker out of the bottle, so I usually do something like 8 drops of paint : 10-12 drops of the mix. On the other hand, with AK (off)whites, I usually go 1:2 ratio, or even 1:3, because of how thick they come. That's for regular spraying. Now, when you need to do some closeups, or hair-thin painting on a mini (very close to the plastic, very low pressure, trigger limiter on), the ratios become a lot wilder, with fuckload of flow improver on top of everything. No issue with using 1:4 or even 1:8 (depending on a paint and color, ofc).

Still, it ain't a science, just thin it so that it drops freely. You'll get a hang of it quick. I personally dislike using hobby airbrush paints, because they are ultimately a bit more expensive, and from experience, still require a bit of thinning, which kinda defeats the purpose.

Since airbrush thinning was mentioned, a very stupid question - why exactly paints are supposed to be thinned with dedicated thinner and not just water, like with brush application?

>>97846572
Thinning your paints for airbrushing with water creates mustard gas.

Seriously though, the problem with thinning with water is that it weakens the acrylic binders, too. It's fine for brush work, but with airbrush it results with crappy, weak finish (literally can scrub the paint with a gentle touch). Also, airbrush thinners not only thin the paint, they also have paint retarders in it. Atomized water = drying too fast on the needle = sputtering, clogging and other issues.

>>97846661
Oh. I thought that flow improver contains retarder instead. But that also creates a question why we use water for brushwork and not mediums. I mean, I know why I do - because last time I used Vallejo "acrylic medium", it started to reactivate old paint during layering.

I know I'm gonna open a can of worms since its HIGHLY subjective, but what is the best miniature paint brand, and why?

>>97846718
Vallejo, because it's the one I use and I'm too old and set in my ways to bother exploring other brands.

>>97846718
Whichever one is readily available to you and also in dropper bottles.
AP fanatic are perfectly servicable and no longer full of precum, Vallejo always nice, and Two thin coats seems to be okay.

>>97846718
They all have their pros and cons. But if there was a brand that has the most pros and least of cons, I would say AK.
Then again, most of the big brands are pretty good, it's kinda hard to go wrong.

Apart from AP. Fuck AP.

>>97846718
I really like AMMO's Atom paints. Excellent coverage and they self-level well.

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Honest question, what does this stuff do?

>>97846751
Would love to try these, they look great. Hard to get in my country, though.

>>97846786
It makes the paint dry slower, giving you more time to do stuff like wet blending and giving surface tension more time to smooth out the surface.

>>97846786
It makes your paints retarded, duh.

>>97846751
Is there any difference with the Ionic paints or...?

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WIP knights. Just need to add transfers and grass which I'll do later this week.

>>97845862
Shit isn't plug and play. ProAcryl say to use as little thinner as possible, just enough to get it to spray smooth. For me that ends up being 2:1 or 3:1 paint to thinner. And this all depends on your weather, humidity, temp, etc. Airbrushing takes some finagling to get right, you need to fiddle with your mixes and PSI until you find what works for you. You can't depend on what others say, maybe use it as a starting point but you need to play with it yourself from there. Do not airbrush models that you care about at first, airbrush some random sprues or test minis until you have it down.

>>97845608
Remember that its marketed towards new painters that don't have a lot of brush control yet. Targeted washing/pinlining, layers of glazes, crosshatching, etc. may give better results but require some knowledge and experience to make look good. Could be intimidating to a new painter, easier to say "just slap these colors on, put the wash everywhere, then brighten small parts up again" to a new painter and get them in the door that way. Even here people sometimes are worried about "ruining their minis", its paint and plastic nothing to ruin. Unless you melt them in acetone, which I have certainly never accidently done to several units of bikes or anything.

>>97845570
Is there a way to fix it?

>>97846786
it turns you into an shill sloptuber

>>97846864
ionic, atom and their old mig line, it's just a clustercuck

>>97847058
I still dont know if theyre the same or not lmao

>>97847159
afaik they are not, last time i tried to look into it i found a video comparing atom and ionic and one of the two was objectively worse, don't remember wich one, fuck em and their shitty product lines, i'll buy ak or whatever thx

>>97846794
Thanks anon

>>97847181
Just watched Stahly video and he compares them, theyre pretty much the same but ATOM paints are more airbrush friendly, but absolutely fine for brush work.

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Any ideas on doing this black, rusted armour effect? Chipping medium and then oil streaking?

>>97845862
the point of reducer is to thin the paint is to get it to flow through the airbrush and atomize correctly. retarder is to make it dry slower when it's on what you're painting. you are the only one apparently having a problem with paint drying inside the airbrush. paint isn't supposed to dry inside the nozzle any more than it would inside the bottle, because if you would have watched any of the videos that have been linked for you, there's no air inside that part of the airbrush.

>>97847333
Actually, isn't it like it can suck air from the cup if it runs out of paint during spraying?

>>97846718
pro acryl whites, vallejo silvers, scale 75 coloured metallics, army painter for coverage and washes, ak probably the least bad all-rounder but not the best at anything.

two thin coats are a rip off (as are pro acryl but titanium white is just that good). GW bad apart from a handful of weird unique colours you can't find anywhere else. but every brand has a few of those.

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>freshly bought brush
>this happens

Fug.

>>97847487
Just cut the hair away.

>>97847361
just don't run out of paint

>>97847487
Raphael 8404 size 0 is that you?

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I guess she is finished. I really shouldn't paint such highly detailed minis, they are simply too hard for my skill level. I hope that fire reads as fire, too.

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Back view.

>>97847715
No, Davinci series 36, size 2. "Kolinsky Rotmarder" so not their premium line (I think it's called "Maestro") but 75 PLN (nearly 18€) for single size 1 is a bit too much for me.

>>97846994
yeah, strip the mini and start again, this time with less primer

>>97847803
I tried that earlier with another mini, using simple green and brushing it like anons told me to, and while it got off paint, it had absolutely no effect on primer.

>>97847718
I've seen far worse fire, but it's difficult to sell the effect when it's darker than the majority of the model. it should probably also be brightest nearest the source of the heat not consistently along the length

you should touch up the stomach with a more pinkish tone to match the rest of the skin.

>>97847718
how did you manage to make her skin look so chalky?

>>97847735
>>97847718
Ah cool
I haven't tried that line or that brush but it looks pretty decent. I stressed so much about my first nice brush and thought that I ruined it, but I'm still using it nie than a year later and it's still great. Get some nice brush soap if you haven't and it'll help a lot. Little loose hairs like that you can trim no problem, as long as the tip is nice. It's a very manual thing to put those brushes together so it is normal for some to do what yours did. I also think your mini looks rad. Great job finishing her

>>97847888
I had to soak my primed mini for a week in 99% isopropyl alcohol and brush it with an old electric toothbrush to get the primer off, and even then parts were stubborn. Stripping is absolute last resort for me, and I'd rather get another of the same mini

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>>97847941
Use this undiluted for plastic, not sure about finecast. Use a glass jar as it will eventually weaken food safe plastic containers. Make sure you wear rubber dish washing gloves, not latex or neoprene that will dissolve, or you'll get some minor chemical burns on your hands that will itch and leave your skin peeling. Let the minis soak in the concentrate for a day or so then gently brush with some dish soap and a toothbrush. If primer remains let them soak another day. I did an experiment with some test minis and left them soaking for almost a year, the super glue bonds broke down but no adverse effects to the plastic.

>>97847941
Did you prime it with tar?

>>97848000
US brand names moment.

>>97846088
take the next picture holding the mini with tweezers i dont like your fingers

>>97840919
Current WIPs
Has anyone ever drilled out the hinges on a chimera to make it workable to open and close?
>>97847718
Glad you didn’t quit, the color scheme looks like teela from he-man, great work
>>97846906
Super clean, your freehand looks very solid, surprised you are using transfers

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>>97848430
Forgot my pic

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I'm done with this Predator for now. I lack the proper weathering products. I was thinking of getting a Summer Dust set by Ammo Mig. Should fit well enough with my basing scheme.

>>97848430
>>97848441
no not really because imho the connections are so flimsy and hard to drill
i left the front ramp working on my 3 land raiders but glued them in the end because it always opened when i didnt need it to and i always forgot to open it when appopriate
cool idea though

>>97848478
that blue and those lenses are really good

>>97848506
Thank you!

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>>97848478
Very nice work and I enjoyed seeing your progress on it.
>>97847718
I think she still looks pretty good. Fire could use more contrast as in that yellow could be brighter and the tips a darker red, or maybe even black.
>>97847487
Happened to me a couple times, I just cut the stray hair, it didn't effect other bristles.
>>97846906
Lovely colors and very clean so far, the checkers look great.
>>97846088
Good detail work!
>>97844636
Very nice boats, I like how the wood looks a lot.
>>97844351
Yeah I think you did a good job on the hair. You could maybe try to imitate the satin look with some smooth highlights.

>>97847893
>>97848721
I admit I don't really know how to paint fire except of having, let's say, "inverted highlights" aka red on the outside, yellow on the inside. Since she was sprayed with white over gray primer, I used "Imperial Fist", contrast here.

You sure that cutting hair like that won't cause problems with brush work later?

>>97847914
She served partially as test piece before when I was trying to figure out airbrush problems, she got sprayed with Tamiya white acrylic paint so maybe that's why. But skin is my bane in any case.

>>97847915
Okay. Davinci brushes were generally advertised as high quality stuff, their price is high for sure. Normally what I can find at my local shops are mostly Kolibri, some Lineo and Restaurohouse but I sadly noticed that most shops start to move toward synthetic direction.

>>97848430
Aw shit, didn't notice that before. Yeah, she looks a bit like her.

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I've accidentally painted my Alpha Legion in Sons of Horus colours. Oh well, I'm looking forward to oil washing them.

>>97848000
I’ve used that on both fine cast and FW resin. I had them in an ultrasonic cleaner soaking for a week to a month depending on the mini, I’d run the cleaner 30 minutes every other day or so. Worked perfectly. Note that with plastic minis you will never get the primer off if it was rattle can, it has become one with the plastic. Resin minis stripped much faster than plastic too.

Cleaning a plastic Valkyrie with 4 coats of paint (I must be the 5th owner lol) took a month and some scrubbing with a toothbrush too. For scrubbing use the 80/20 rule, a gentle once over and then back in the soak is better than trying to get everything off at once. The goal of the brush should be just to help loosen and lift up material to expose new surfaces.

>>97845529
>>97845547
FYI priming is not a base coat. You dont need a uniform finish. It’s totally fine to still have a small amount of the plastic poking through here and there. Especially with a rattle can, it’s far better to stop early than the try and get those last spots because you might to go far on others.

>>97849072
Some green and blue shades and more saturated highlights will bring those back toward that serpent blue green.

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As much as I like these old metal sculpts there are so many rough edges and miscast parts that make painting (or zooming in) feel bad. We've come so far.

>>97848000
Oh, yeah, won't get that here where I am. Thanks though, and nice trips

>>97848002
Citadel black rattle can. It was pretty overprimed though, which is actually why I stripped it. After reprime it was mostly fine, but did flake a little bir

>>97849328
i was just about to suggest it was that
still remember how it smells
t. eri

Is it bad to mix primers?

I used a rattle can to prime some minis, but I did a bad job of it and there's a couple places that aren't covered. Would there be any problems if I use my airbrush primer to fill in the spots? The colors aren't that different.

>>97849367
Don't do that, if you mix a GW and non GW primer it creates nerve gas.

>>97849367
No problem at all. But imo if you missed it with your rattle can it’s probably not an area you can tough, so you can probably just go straight to your base coat.

>>97849067
The colors and placements are mostly good, just not contrasting enough.
>You sure that cutting hair like that won't cause problems with brush work later?
I'm talking about only that single stray hair, just need to be careful to not cut anything else, obviously. Of course if you're worried you can try reshaping it but I'm honestly not sure if it's possible.

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>>97849328
>>97849351
i remember priming this bloodthirster and for some reason the smell always stuck with me
20 something years ago i turned him into this nurgle daemon prince for some reason and it took half a day to get it clean with toothbrush and hand sanitizer
maybe month ago i stripped his friends too and with IPA it would have taken couple of hours really but i put them in ultrasonic washer just to see how it deals with old citadel spray and it didnt, i ran the cleaning program for 8 hours just to be sure
i scrubbed them clean by hand and that too took few hours

I currently only have 1 Kolinsky brush and I very seldomly use it, a Windsor and Newton series 7, size 2. I'd like to have at least a couple others that I can use a bit more generally to get a better feel for natural hair brushes. Is there anything that's not astronomically priced right now that's also a reasonably good brush?

>>97849723
nevskaya palitra, rosemary & co, roubloff

>>97849762
>Doesn't ship to US
>Doesn't ship to US
>Russian website doesn't work
Man wtf

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She is complete.

>>97850110
You painted a camel toe, right?
Looks great, you aced it.

>>97850110
Looks fantastic, anon.

>>97849972
beats me why people always try to buy stuff directly from the manufacturer, check hobby stores, art stores, etc
palitras are even sold on aliexpress

also try not to live in the us, i heard is fucking shit with tariffs lately

i don't know where you guys but shit but is this any cheaper than w&n over there?
>https://www.michtoy.com/item-RAC-33SH-2-Pointed_Pure_Kolinsky_Sable_Size_2.html

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>>97850110
Great job anon, I especially like her hair.

I've just tested VMS Flat Varnish, and I don't like it. After big success with their primers (easily my favorite now), I've read a lot of cool shit about the varnishes, and I don't know if I'm doing something wrong or if I have a crappy batch, but it just ain't good.

>Pros:
1. You can spray it directly from the bottle, no thinning needed. Very comfy.
2. The finish is fantastic, just a tinniest touch less matte than AK Ultra Matte, which still keeps colors a bit more vibrant while 95% of the flatness is there. It's perfect for me.
3. It dries fast as fuck, you can (carefully) paint over it in like an hour or two
4. When cured (a few days), it's actually fairly tough, which is uncommon with non-glossy varnishes

Regrettably, all that is washed away because of the:
>Cons
1. It's prone to leaving white spots/frosting, placement and regularity highly inconsistent.
2. You REALLY have to shake that bitch before spraying, like two minutes of vigorous shaking + vortex
3. I think you need to apply it really T H I C C for it to self-level. If you don't, it (in my experience) leads to point 1. - though I might be mistaken here.
So, all in all, it might work really well for ~1/35 large scale models, but smaller things you don't wanna flood with it seem to suffer from point 1.
Worse yet, I've asked them on their Youtube channel about it (under a video that actually shows the problem, albeit a lot less severe than I had), and I got some bullshit about dust in the air in the studio. And now the comment is gone from under that video, too. It might be google fucking up, but I just don't like that.

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Work in progress two headed orc champion. I'm thinking mace in one hand curved Cutlass in the other.

isopropyl alchohol weakens abs-like resin? I threw a chunk of unpainted waste in the paint stripping pot for a few days and it does feel more flexible but at least it didn't melt. is there a better paint stripper for 3d prints?

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W I P
I
P

>>97850110
ayy lmao

>>97850731
Why is your phone in Japanese? Also the unit champion is supposed to have a sword instead of a spear.

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>>97850762
Don't give a fuck.
I didn't want to give a sword to the captain of a spear unit, so I gave him a double bladed glaive.

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>delivery scheduled for tomorrow

How often do you find yourself looking for new paints or tools after running into a problem in need of a solution exactly once?

>>97847291
I wouldn't chip that. Weathering powders (after decals) might be enough, or stippling, decals (then varnish), then weathering powders and oils.

>>97846718
I'm mostly using Pro Acryl for brush painting, but it's tricky in an airbrush.

I hear Army Painter doesn't suck anymore but it's too late for me.

>>97850187
No, but thank you.

>>97850243
>>97850267
Thanks anons.

>>97850735
I didn't really know what to do with the eyes. I should have kitbashed some goggles or something like the Starcraft ghosts, but it was too late.

I got one of those tiny gunpla reciprocating sanders to hopefully make assembling vehicles less of a nightmare. This better work or I'm going to just never build vehicles again.

>>97850621
Just don't let it soak in IPA for more than 5 minutes

>>97851498
weird, my experience with Pro Acryl has been the exact opposite. Goes on great through an airbrush, with a hand brush it's uneven as shit.

the best I've used so far is Vallejo

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Working on the Bladeguard Lieutenant is a lot less intimidating without six other unfinished Bladeguard on my work table!

>>97851636
Dont add any water on the wet palette. Pull a little from your blob and spread it a little on the wet palette, that adds plenty of moisture to it. Make sure your brush is wicked out on some paper towels so its lightly damp. It will look too thick on the palette but will apply and dry smoothly. If you're trying to glaze with it then glazing medium helps a lot to thin it out, but does make them dry somewhat satin. This advice only works for colors that arent orange, fuck their orange, it's like a prethinned airbrush paint that is a different consistency than literally every other fucking paint in the range.

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>>97840919
I made a hat, first time doing leatherwork

>>97851784
Ok I'm half asleep but need to clarify. You have water in the fucking wet palette sponge like normal, just dont add any extra water to the paint itself. Apologies, I have brain problems.

>>97851797
>The candles
kek.
I hope you wear this while painting.

>>97851926
I'm contemplating wearing it for a new tabletop gaming store grand opening in my town. Gonna be donating a lot of my terrain and supplies so people can make more and just hang out and make stuff, or play some games

What are your top, most important painting tips that you think make the biggest impact on your painting?

>>97852031
the most important thing you can do is paint cleanly without chalkyness, splotchyness, visible brush strokes, or getting paint outside where you wanted it to be. if you can do this your work will look professional no matter how simple otherwise it is. if you can't do this your models will always look amateur no matter how many advanced techniques you learned from jewtube you use.

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I’m so sorry for posting a non-WIP.

>>97852068
apology accepted.
The bottles and sword look very nice.

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>>97847291
Small amounts of this stuff, applied in a very targeted fashion.

>>97850110
GYATT

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>>97852247

How long should I let an oil wash thinned with gamsol dry before varnishing

>>97852303
When you are doing any oil stuff, paint a test patch at the same time on a plastic palette with the same thinned stuff you're putting on the model. for a while it will easily just wipe off, but at some point it will actually be a stable film and take a little more work (or solvents) to get it off. When it's at that state you know you're good, and you don't have to risk messing with the paint on the model to be sure.

>>97852303
a week probably

>>97852068
resin or plastic that whip is so going to snap first time it snags into anything and it wil
what were they thinking

>>97850110
Cute, love that braid

Can pointing a fan at acrylics to accelerate drying cause any problems?

>>97852757
If it causes it to streak, yes. If not, then I don't think so. But if you are also sitting in the fan's way, your sinuses will dry out and may crack, making you more susceptible to Nurgle, so just be careful of that.

>>97852303
Depends on how much oil wash you've used, if you dried the oil paint prior, and more. It can be a day, or it can be a week. I usually do it after two days, but it really depends.

>>97852031
The problem is usually brush hydration, not thinning the paint. Don't use paper towels to dab off excess, they suck too much water out of the brush, use tissues. Clean and recharge the brush more often than you want to.

Colour theory and contrast matter way more than skill to making a paint job look nice on the shelf.

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Say bye bye bases because apparently I'm too dumb to do a 50/50 mix

>>97852966
i dont get it
what happened and why

Whats THE best red paint?
Not the best covering one, but the one you hold dearest

>>97853035
Didn't mix milliput long enough or well enough

>>97853087
Mephiston red citadel. I just think it's neat.

>>97853087
I'm pretty happy with this dinky pot of "Game Masters" Neutral Red, it has a decent finish, but I'm not gonna proclaim it the best red ever just because it's what I got and I like it.

Got it in that D&D adventurer minis plus paints set released a while ago.
It's got decent coverage considering it's thinner than my Vallejo's.

But well, since the shit I heard was going on at the Vallejo factory I've been buying Army Painter pots instead.

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>>97853087
pre-takeover Vallejo Model Colour Cavalry Brown

>>97853190
Army painter pots are decent. The gamemaster series might be a bit different but i had a hard time getting their dragon red to cover over black. Maybe neutral red isn't dragon red in the other line though, but glad it's working for you

>>97853087
Baal red
Mephiston red
AK Wine Red
Kimera The Red

>>97853255
>AK Wine Red
Just bought this one and fell in love with it. Definitely gonna be using it a lot.

>>97853205
They ruined it with new formula or what?

>>97853384
No, he is just super autistic

>>97841413
40mm gives it a more display vibe, like a bunny in a field

>>97853234
Expecting good coverage painting red over black is asking a lot of any brand. Be kinder to yourself and use a white, grey or brown base.

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>>97853087
olg gw blood red

summoning red paint skizo

>>97850599
Mace in left hand, he looks more dopey.
The right handed one looks devious, so an evil sword would be good

>>97853482
Red paint schizos favorite red was AK wine red

>>97850965
Oh, that's a pretty neat conversion, and fits the unit more than the sword too.

>>97853467
That's fair. I guess what surprised me was that basilisk red and mephiston red worked fine, but dragon red didn't. Over brown or basilisk red it went fine

>>97853494
>was
Still is, but I'd say its not a red for general use, more suited for glazes, or to add some colour variations.

Some good all rounder reds would be Mephiston Red, Khorne Red, VGC Scarlet Blood, to name a few.
Citadel reds are honestly pretty solid.

>>97853482
Ahh, what a beautiful picture.
I need to take another pic of all of my red and red adjacent paints.

Are you sure your bottom pic has a proper white balance? they all look quite desaturated.

>>97853569
>Are you sure your bottom pic has a proper white balance? they all look quite desaturated.
considering it's painted on a white pvc sheet, no, it's a shit photo

>>97853127
what

unless you're mixing like 90:10 itll still cure, the properties will just be different.

>>97853234
I've been using it on black, it comes out burgundy, which is what I like.
Takes a couple coats if you wanna brighten it up, but at least it's not yellow.

Actually, this Vallejo yellow I got has great coverage, but it might be the only one I seen that does.

If I'da had it painting my Battle for Skull Pass Night Goblins when I was eleven, I think their shields woulda come out far crisper.

>Literally getting Vietnam flashbacks to my first attempt to paint yellow on black.

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Any recommendations on how to properly mask multiple small and round or curved elements for varnish application? I used to apply and cut masking tape for that but it always ends up either missing some or damaging paint while cutting. I wonder if there is a faster way.

>>97854043
masking putty

>>97854043
Masking putty (I like AK camo masking putty, it's reusable), liquid mask (works great, smells like piss).

>>97854054
I heard about that's is it really reusable as they say? Don't you need to clean it somehow after use?

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Calling it on the sentinels
>>97852068
Looks killer
>>>97851781
all the marines I’ve gotten from the necron/nid boxes took me forever, I’ve painted two of the lieutenants and wished I’d spent more time on

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>>97854189
>all the marines I’ve gotten from the necron/nid boxes took me forever, I’ve painted two of the lieutenants and wished I’d spent more time on
Everything takes me forever, except touching up and rebasing eBay rescues. I can rationalize to myself that because I didn't paint them, it's OK if they are not up to my usual standards. A Lieutenant, OTOH, is a standout model responsible for leading a squad. I want to do a good job on this one.

I think eventually I will start caring less about my paint jobs - especially on squadboyz - just so I can get more models on the tables quicker.

>>97854226
>. A Lieutenant, OTOH, is a standout model responsible for leading a squad. I want to do a good job on this one.
This is absurd, the entire army needs to be painted to the exact same standard or else it looks like a patchwork mess.
A consistent mediocre army looks better than an army where a small handful of units stand out as looking different.

>>97854079
It will eventually lose its tackiness after a few uses, silly putty is another alternative if you can't find the masking putty nearby. Mr Hobby also has masking fluid which works well but can be a little finicky (its like a thick acrylic paint, dries into a film you peel off afterwards).

I absolutely love TTC "Dragon's Gold" but it's also very hard to find, I have one bottle but each time I paid a visit to some shop, they had none. Any similar, good alternative out there? Sadly, Vallejo metallics, while being the best ones out there, have only very desaturated gold.

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>>97848430
I'm ok with relatively plain shapes or skaven runes but full freehanded heraldry is a bit much for me. Maybe one day.