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I guess I'll open with an early WIP of knights.

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Just finished up by Beherek for an RTT this weekend. Had a lot of fun doing the gore on the back of the ork's head!

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Progress on my dude, any suggestions?

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Repostin' last night's daemonsmith.
>>97897873
Honestly I probably won't, though it's good advice. Every time I try that on my green flames they always seems to lose their luster to me. It's completely a personal preference to just keep the brightest spots yellow.

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Finished kitbashing one of two War Rigs for Gaslands.
This one is for the two red cars, so cleaner with tech gadgets, the next will be rusty and properly mad max with the greebles.

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>>97898288
>This one is for the two red cars, so cleaner with tech gadgets
You should totally paint this like G1 Ultra Magnus

>>97898163
Very nice. A couple of minor thoughts:
1. The flames look good, going forward I would start with a brighter color at the bottom and a darker color at the top. Flames are not easy, I think I only got the hang of them recently.
2. Most of the paint job looks fantastic, but I would try to thin down your paints for flames in future models.
3. Base is awesome. Love it. Same with the flame lighting effects on the rest of the model. Looks really nice.

These are really minor details, which I think is what you're looking for.

>>97898149
Looking good so far, I'd say different highlight or shadow colors on the whip and handle to differentiate them as different materials.

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Reposting from the last thread, got distracted and started painting Huron’s goon squad instead of the chaplain. Really liking the direction I’m going with for the unit and use of a limited colour palette keeping.
Averland yellow, evil sunz red, Corvus black, 50:50 khorne red/rhinox brown, gauss blaster green and corax white for anyone interested

.>>97898163
Beautiful work on the gem, was tempted by chorfs as a project last year but decided to stick to 40K till my backlog is significantly reduced.

For Vallejo skin wash, do I paint the figure skintone and apply the wash? It looks like its make the whole thing a lot redder. What wash is good for adding shades to skin colors?

>>97898379
I still have to do washes, but do you think flesh wash or sepia for the rat tail whip?

>>97898315
>optimus prime at home
But that wouldn't match the team.

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>>97898343
>>97898457
Thanks for the feedback guys! I'll take it to heart and hopefully improve on my next ventures. I still think flames are where I could improve most, and I'll definitely thin my paints next time (I quite literally didn't thin them on that guy lmao).
I will say that those flames specifically were a bit tough to paint, as they're a bit more chaotic than some other flames, so trying to get a good spread from yellow to green to black was tough since they were very "flickery"(?). Picrel is some other flames I've done which I think were better, but I didn't have the correct airbrush to attempt OSL on at the time.

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>>97898477
If it's like Citadel's flash-toned washes and contrast paints, I suspect you are supposed to do it over a white undercoat. This is Guilliman Flesh Contrast paint over white.

>>97898477
If you have a pinkish base skintone then use a richer orange brown wash after highlighting with a neutral (or even light green) mixed in for nose/cheekbones/chin/upper lip. If the wash is reddish then you probably need to apply if before highlighting, with a browner base tone.

>>97898509
Sepia for the handle since it already has some wood texture you can capitalize on, then the flesh wash or even a dark purple for the rat tail whip. From there you can highlight with flesh tones, a subtle pale pink, or a light magenta. The purple/flesh would contrast nicely with the green armor you've got going on so I think you're heading in a great direction.

>>97898163
Great osl

>>97898650
The dark purple is a good idea, thanks!

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What you think, good for alpha legion?
Looks a bit goofier than I had imagined...

>>97899070
It looks goofy, but not that bad.
I'm not a fan of Knights or Hounds becoming "members" of (C)SM legions.

>>97898477
Flesh wash is great.. just try it on a spare head if you have doubts.

>>97899078
For fluff reasons or how come? I just love the dogs, been wanting some since they came out and saw someone selling a bunch on sprue. Got 3 for ~90€

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Is there any mold or home appliance that one could use to make a lamprey-esque mouth from green stuff for a 28mm model? It's a wonderfully disgusting thing.

>>97899070
its goofy but its cool

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>>97899333

>>97899070
Maybe add some mechanical bits to the hydra head?

>>97899340
Thanks :)
>>97899552
Yeah it does clash quite a bit with the rest of the model, I'll try see if I can find some bits. Also plan to make the scales the same silver as the metals on the body so that should help too hopefully.

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>>97897985
Finished my last Heavy Weapons team

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>>97897985
Some metal Kasrkins, any tips on these would be appreciated

>>97899927
Stop drybrushing everything.
Thin your paints.
Clean up the mould lines.

Actually learn how to paint models, anon. The GW workflow of "basecoat > wash > highlight" is not a bad place to start, but don't take it as gospel, especially once you inevitably start getting better.

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Real rough WIP of a Cenobite, for my WFRP campaign. I'd love some feedback before I hit it with the sanding sponges.

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>>97900111
Another angle.

>>97900111
not sure what she doing or what she's holding in her left arm but her right arms seems at rest so the whip should be flacid, or at least going down

What's the best way to mock up a color scheme without actually painting a mini? I've just been coloring images in paint to see what I like, but there has to be a better way.

>t. noob

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>>97900127
I based it off the career art. It's supposed to be an alms cup out of a skull. I'll make it a little clearer with the plasticard plank, but I could do with some coins to make it clearer. I like the whip swing, gives the pose some aggro while still not being an action pose.

>>97899927
you need to spend more time in the planning stage before you start slopping paint on. look at each part of the model and ask yourself "what is this supposed to represent?" figure out what is a gun, what is armor, what is a grenade, etc. then ask yourself "what is this supposed to look like?" what do you imagine each thing is made out of? is it metal, is it plastic, is it some sci fi material? when you have figured all of this out then you can start putting paint down to match the conceptualized image you have created. when I look at your work all I see is a mess, because you jumped right to putting color down without considering what you were trying to depict.

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Been blocking out colours on this guy, I think I need to desaturate the red and there's definitely cleanup to do, but otherwise I'm pretty happy so far

>>97900150
i see, in that case i'd angle the whip the oposite side, as if she was striking outwards, as it is it looks weird, like she's gonna whip her leg

>>97900147
in your 'puter with a photo editing program

impcat isnt bad if you arent familiar with photo editing

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Kill Team ready (for 4th edition). Only the commissar is left.
A squad of spares, possibly Afriel Strain, or just the pale ghosts of the fallen.
It was a fun project to kitbash something interesting out of cadian bodies.

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Finished my Chaos Warriors for Advanced Heroquest. Next up are the Chaos Thugs.

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A little pink to saturate the red.

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>>97900529

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Got a bit farther on my first Ulfenwatch. Honestly he's not really speaking to me, I'm not satisfied with how he's coming along. I tried following Vince's verdigris tutorial for the bronze but I'm not super happy with how it came out. There's still way too much shine for the look I'm going for. Does it at least look alright as it is now?
Any suggestions for the shield? I through some brown on just because I had it on the palette but it doesn't do it for me.

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>>97900904
You just need an extra colour in there.

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Slowly just started the browns

>>97900433
>Kriegsman
They're called Kriegers

>>97901048
I think something like cyan would look good, but I'm afraid it will blend too much with the verdigris on the bronze and just eat up the whole effect.

>>97900904
when you think about it would it even make sense to have bronze plate but iron chain?

>>97898588
Contrast is different from washes, right? From what I understand washes are for shadows, and contrasts/speed paints are an all in one, shade-base-highlight.

>>97898628
I gave it two coats of vallejo skin over a light base. You highlight before wash? I thought you highlight after wash.

>>97899081
I actually just checked I have flesh wash not skin wash. I also have umber and black washes that I plan to use for every other part. Its a 28mm miniature

>>97900904
>>97901310
Honestly the more I look at it the more I kinda wanna swap the armor materials. Bronze as a main color has been a pain in the ass trying to make a good color palette and it's not satisfying me. At least with silver I have a big cool color to counter the red. Then I can just do whatever with the shield.
I'll paint another one up tomorrow and compare them.

base colors almost down some of the black will be metal, been awhile since I painted anything large.

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>>97901398

>>97901376
bronze armor and red cape is the 300 color palette

>>97899927
strip and start again

>>97899927
Always look at them from 3 feet away.

>>97899927
You gotta cover up the gaps in slot bases before you do your basing, get some miliput or texture paste for that. You can cover them up with flock too but if you're going to do flock-only basing you need to completely cover the base, having visible base plastic around your basing looks fucking terrible.

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Hey dudes I'm working on a thing; I was wondering, what gauge wire do people use as like electronic cables/wires for mini scale? Or is there some better option?

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Got some nice recasts of the FW Space wolf upgrades, am using nu mk3 & mk2 and they look good but a little bare so I want to try sculpting some fur. full/half capes seem pretty obvious but idk where else to stick stuff. Still waiting on the sculpting tools to arrive, but does it look weird to sculpt fur on both sides? Pic related is one of my favorite pieces of heresy art and I always thought the cape looked more like fur than fabric

>>97901647
Guitar string, you can just eyeball the size

>>97901746
Oh, brilliant. Thanks

>>97899914
Makes me wanna play Metal Slug. Very cool.

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How's it coming along?

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I mildly regret rushing this for an event, but also its done.

>>97899914
>>97899927
I could paint miniatures better than this when I was 10 y/o
Are you even trying or just slopping paint whatever way into the miniatures?

>>97901310
You have to brown up the chain and make it rusty for it to work, like they have cheap iron but it's too heavy for a full breastplate kinda thing. It's so shoddy though that it rusts easy.

>>97902421
how about you provide some actual feedback for them

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>>97893413
>>97893416
team mämmi reporting in
also missile chimeras

>>97902525

Nice clean paintjob on the tanks. I've had to make the mämmi myself due to living abroad. This year it was better because I had brought proper mämmi malts from Finland, instead of using rye malts one can find from a brewery shop. Still not as dark as mämmi bought from the store, but delicious with cream.

>>97902525
Those look very clean finn-anon, I'd love to play against them.

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these legs were made for walking

>>97902648
those armour panels are almost gunpla-esque, I like it

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>>97901142
>Kriegers

>>97902525
Crisp as fuck.

Which anon has produced the best paintjobs?
I know its highly subjective and depending on the taste of the person but at some point you can say 'yeah thats incredible' even if its not your favorite style.

>>97902989
I can't remember and/or keep them all apart.

>>97902989
BT anon, ez. Moggs the fuck out of official box art. Also Raptor anon, the best weathering itt.

>>97903002
In the past there have been painters that btfo bt anon out of the water.

>>97903026
Post something, I wanna check it out. Always good to see really well done stuff.

>>97903026
>>97903002
>>97902989
fuck off with this circlejerk bullshit

>>97903028
There was one czech (I think) anon who did display painting for example. Real neat stuff.

>>97902989
Suggs

>>97902989
recently ive been liking raptor guy work a lot, bt anon is best for grimdark and vibe, thousands son anon for clean marines, and generally i really like all the sculpting anons but I understand the question was about painting

>>97901359
>You highlight before wash? I thought you highlight after wash.
Both are perfectly valid depending on the effect you're looking for.

>>97903053
oh and I forgot about that guy who painted that tresure island bust of course, that might have been the best recently desu, but then again that was a loong paintjob on a bust, in general its really hard to judge since the mediums and goals are so different for everyone

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finished up the rest of the Escher Ganger

>>97903068
those lips a specular highlight

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>>97903053
>mentioned

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>>97890715
I'm quite happy with how the snail turned out.
Maybe it's the not-quite-cured varnish, maybe it's my lighting, but I swear they don't look so glossy in real life.

>>97903140
Very cute snails, anon.

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>>97903141
Cheers.
Have two more.

>>97903140
snails are wet, you could even varnish the body sating with some gloss

>>97903159
The wash colour you used is not dark enough
I set your picture to b&w and you could barely tell its there

>>97903391
>I set your picture to b&w and you could barely tell its there
nta, then don't? it has colors for a reason

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>>97903140
>>97903159
Cute snails! Even with pussy face on that one

Further progress on the cleric, the purple wash was a good idea

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>>97901359
>Contrast is different from washes, right?
Yes, even if they look similar from the outside. Good thing Citadel labels them for us. Contrast can still be confusing, though; see below.

>From what I understand washes are for shadows
Pretty much exclusively so, yes. However, if you put them over a white basecoat, you can get some interesting effects just because of their consistency.

>contrasts/speed paints are an all in one, shade-base-highlight.
Some of them are, but not all of them, and that's where it pays to write down recipes you like when you find them.

For example, Blood Angels Red is the kind of Contrast Paint you describe: put it on a white undercoat correctly, and you get colour, shade, and highlight. Baal Red, which seems like it should be the same thing - or at least related, since they're both red and both named after Blood Angels things - is a really vibrant red that I imagine is more akin to how "speed paints" from other companies work. It does *not* have the shade-base-highlight properties you would come to expect of the earlier Contrast Paints.

The biggest advantage of this second kind of Contrast Paint is that it is already very thin, yet very intense. Assuming it's the hue you're after, it's a lot easier to get that without worrying about having your paint be too thick.

>>97903520
>Blood Angels Red is the kind of Contrast Paint you describe: put it on a white undercoat correctly, and you get colour, shade, and highlight
NTA, I don't have budget to buy many many red paints. How can I tell if the contrast paints are the shade version or not? Is there a "shading" contrast for world eater red?

Some of you might remember my posts about problems with cleaning airbrush, back then you guys suggested me to find and talk to people in person about this issue. I found two shops where I could get info (one where staff was running airbrush courses, another ran by experienced and really friendly older guy), plus paid a visit to one of (F)LGS during mini-tournament and had some conversations here as well. Just wanted to say how it went out.

Well, turns out I was not doing anything wrong. At all. My cleaning procedure was just as it should be, it appears that there are always, always some leftovers and thin layer around needle, which must simply be taken out and wiped after 2-3 color changes. Everyone asked about those videos replied simply that they lie (or, as one out it, "during those presentations they simply don't have enough time for paint to really gather there, unlike actual painting session). By the way, that older guy was really friendly, even suggested to bring my airbrush so we might inspect on site (it was completely fine). The only thing that I could be doing wrong was using Vallejo thinner with AK paints since there are some incompatibilities between waterbased acrylics and it could separate. But aside from that, it's completely fine. I'm honestly little shocked, I thought that I'm missing something and by fixing that little thing it would magically become just like everyone online claims it works. But at least I can stop focusing on hunting for what I did wrong and can focus on actual painting.

>>97903748
Yea the area surrounding the nozzle always gets a bit of paint buildup. I'm not sure about paint on the needle itself, but mine also gets gummed up if I don't use it for a while and I have to disassemble to clean the needle. I even came up with a technique where you repeatedly clamp and unclamp the little ring around the needle and pull the trigger to slowly "step" the needle out, in case it's properly stuck.

>>97903748
>you guys suggested me to find and talk to people in person about this issue
That was me. Very glad to hear you followed up.
>appears that there are always, always some leftovers and thin layer around needle, which must simply be taken out and wiped after 2-3 color changes
You mean like in the front, or inside the nozzle?
>The only thing that I could be doing wrong was using Vallejo thinner with AK paints since there are some incompatibilities between waterbased acrylics and it could separate.
If you mean the regular Vallejo Airbrush Thinner (71.161)/Flow improver (71.562), then no, it works fine with AK paints. I use it on near daily basis.

>>97901142
Kriegas*

>>97902525
wow the way the tracks are modeled on those things is so shit. it looks like they're not even attached to anything moving.

>>97903797
I'm convinced that GW designers are physically unable to create tracks that look at least kinda sorta alright. Then again, it's a difficult thing to do when your vehicles have no wheels, suspension, or anything else down there, really.
t. spent last week kitbashing tracked Repulsor with actual wheels, suspension, and actual workable tracks

>>97903797
Have you considered that the tracks+housings could be self contained units with motors inside?

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>>97903746
>How can I tell if the contrast paints are the shade version or not?
For starters, the older paints that existed prior to 2022 are all of the "shading" variety. You can look on the Internet to get some idea if it will meet your needs or not.

Additionally, the Warhammer Store in Chelmsford (Essex, UK) have made sample swatches by painting the different Contrast Paints over a variety of undercoats and posted the results online in handy charts. Pictures on the Internet never reflect your reality 100%, but it might be a good starting point. You might ask at your local Warhammer store if you'd like to see it in person.

>Is there a "shading" contrast for world eater red?
Flesh Tearer Red is one of the original Contrast Paints from 2019. It looks like it might go well with Khorne Red (a Base Paint) for touch-ups.

>>97899070
Fuck everyone and their lukewarm comments. That looks sick. It's Chaos, it's supposed to look goofy.

>>97903748
I told you that as long as it wasn't causing stoppages it wasn't a problem if you had to clean a little paint off when you were done. what would be the point of taking it apart and wiping it off if there was nothing there to remove?

>>97903767
you shouldn't be putting it away with paint in it

>>97903771
Inside, the area of the needle that, on "standby" position, is located between cup and front part of the nozzle. Part that is outside can and should be cleaned periodically during painting with wet brush, I was referring to realising how there will always be some thin layer of paint forming around needle inside of airbrush itself, that will slowly accumulate paint over session and how I simply need to take needle out, wipe it and reinsert after some time or after few color changes and how it's completely normal behaviour observed and accepted by lots of painters who are much more experienced in this than me.

Something similar to how normal brush can and is cleaned during work, using multiple colors and shades without contamination issues but after the session ends and during cleaning with soap there are always some leftovers that gets removed in the end.

>>97903814
contained in what? on that model it looks like they're just wrapped around the hull. there's nowhere for the drive sprocket or the suspension to even be.

>>97903863
Previously I thought that I'm doing flushing/color change wrong and that would cause stoppage/clog after few of such changes. Now I know it's normal and can accept solution without worries.

>>97903866
Man, that is weird. I literally never had an issue like that. Not even after multi-hour sessions. That said, I clean up the outside portion of the needle obsessively, and always with a cleaner, so that might play a role. I rarely, very very rarely have any paint residue on the internal portion of the needle during the final cleanup.

>>97903863
>you shouldn't be putting it away with paint in it

Funny how H&S videos pretty much tells you to do that and rarely take airbrush apart, suggesting that flushing is enough.

>>97903895
Could be paint itself, honestly, I'm using AK since I want to keep it consistent and use same paints for brush and airbrush. I don't like new Vallejo at all, even if it somehow sprays okay.

But again, it's not real issue anymore, now after witnessing someone who painted literal tons of models demonstrating cleaning/flushing procedure, confirming that I was doing it correctly, spraying clear and after getting back home I did another clean (since I don't know when I will be using it again, better safe than sorry) and it still had some leftovers on needle track, needle itself and nozzle.

Maybe I needed that talk(s). And store owner was apparently quite happy to have some nice conversation so it's double win.

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I painted two more dudes. After adepticon I have four different colored grass tufts so I'm having fun

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Finished this dude a few days ago. Really like the miniature.

>>97903973
>Could be paint itself, honestly
I don't think so, 90% of my paints are AK. Only rarely Vallejo and Citadel. And I only use Vallejo Thinner and Flow Improver) with Infinity CR Plus. No trouble like the ones you depict, and I only get some paint remains on the needle in like 1 in 10 cleaning sessions.
>And store owner was apparently quite happy to have some nice conversation so it's double win.
Based hobbyists are the best kind of people.

>>97903987
You can also put a tiny drop of wash at the base of the tuft if you need to make it blend into your base more, and can lightly drybrush the tips of the tufts for some color variation. Like if you have green tufts you can do a light drybrush of some yellow ochre to make it look like the grass is starting to dry out, or an orange/red on the green brown tufts for some color variation.

>>97903833
thank you, anon

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>>97903814
>>97903875
i doubt anyone sleeps any better knowing there is an actual sophisticated gear system inside their silly plasic toy interiors

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War Rig for the other team is going to be the more expected look of rusty scrapyard build.

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>>97904781
Trailer front.

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>>97904785
Trailer back.

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>>97904781
>>97904795
i like them tabletop derby cars
sounds like a fun game with unlimited modeling potential

>>97904825
>unlimited modeling potential
Yup, just grabbed my bits box and some scraps and started gluing things on with no real plan to start with beyond the dowel spikes.

>>97904752
The difference between a quality thing and a shitty thing is how it deals with details. Lazy, stupid people tend to ignore details, too.

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Inquisitor in terminator armor kitbash I've been working on.

Had a run at the face today. Happy enough overall. Base next, then oil washing.

>>97905060
that's a nice gold

>>97904858
one thing i would like to mention is that shitty superglue you are using, it leaves that white residue all around and bubbles into big crusty bullshit when applied
it kinda looks like a poorly made welding seam like its supposed to