selfishly i started this thread to ask for board recommendations..
I am looking for a fun board in 2-4ft conditions. I have come to the realisation I have too many excuses to go out above that size and should get a board suited to what I actually surf. I was something cruisy, was thinking 6'8ish range that can paddle but also duck dive. I have gone from minimal to a 6'6 but 3" thick beefy board, a 6'8 thinner board (by far my best board rip) and now a 6'4 board closer to a short board (I am 6'3). Where to from here? I don't see myself doing sharp hacks or anything high performance, but maybe some round houses and floaters..

Hola. This is by the way the third surf general, not the second.

Also, could you link it to the old?

Round houses and floaters are "high-performance" if you want to, depending on your style (long fucking forgotten thing, owing to the sportification of surfing)

>2-4 feet

Wave size or swell size? If wave size, go for a groveller, thick board but short length, to ride the foam.

In surfing, physical condition is mostly irrelevant to your mental condition; no matter how well-prepared your body is, there is one factor you need to go over that is inevtable and that is, sitting comfortably out the back and that only comes with doing it often enough.

>>237182
Old thread is linked. I missed #1 guess it was a prelude.
Idk by swell or surf but say chest to overhead. Anywhere from 2ft - 8ft faces.
I can sit out there and am comfy in the surf just bigger days spots I'd be comfy catching waves, so would 200 of my best friends. Smaller days I can go to quieter beachies.
Thick but short, how short and thick? Also do you mean to ride the foam as in to get plough through mushy close out sections?
Roundhouse as in I do a shitty turn back to the pocket not some powerful stuff and floaters off small end sections I'm not launching a float to flat on an 8 face..

>>237183
No, kek, I meant link the old TO the new.

>>237183
>ride the foam as in to get plough through mushy close out sections?

Exactly

Generally, you want a groveller about a foot shorter than your go-to board and thicker than your go-to board. They are especially designed for this, to play in the surf.

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Rented a foamie for my next two weeks of vacation.

Wish me luck :)

>>237405
shred the gnar anon

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HOW DO I STOP THE CHAFING (CHEST/TITS)
on a foamie if that matters

>>237740
hire a dominatrix to toughen up your skin or wear a shirt or rashie

How long are you guys able to surf before becoming too exhausted to pop up? For me it's 3 hours or so

>>238160
Depends on conditions and how often I am catching waves. A busy session after 2-3 hrs my arms go and I struggle to paddle. I get a bit autistic with my paddling, small days I still paddle hard for the fitness, hold my breathe between duck dives, always stretching that area before and after surf etc.

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>be city with big ass coastline
>have exactly two spots that don't close out religiously
>both are crowded as fuck 24/7

Man Perth fucking sucks

maaaaan Perth fucking sucks

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Why do I feel like I'm always in people's way
Paddling out or sitting in the line up, and all of a sudden someone is coming at me riding a wave. I try paddling into the wave to get out of his way but it never seems to be enough, he usually bails or wipes out trying to avoid me. Then I feel bad.
Am I doing something wrong or is it their fault? I'm a newfag kook on a foamie btw. Maybe I should stick to the weenie hut junior (broken waves, close to shore) until i git gud?
>>239828
>aussie
How do you wear your harness to keep from falling into the sky while on a surf board? Like how does that even work?

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>>239828
Been a winter to watch from the headlands for me..
https://youtu.be/2q5_xjnn30w
>>239978
Because you're probably in their way. But depends how crowded the spot is too. Where would you paddle out and sit in picrel?

>>239981
When I first arrive, probably near the group at the top left. But as I tire I'd go center left so I don't have to paddle as much. My cardio sucks

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>>239984
>disclaimer this is a random screencap so idk what conditions are really like
But.. based off what you posted, I don't think you should be where the red crosses are. Top left you won't catch anything, will be caught out of position and in peoples way. Other two spots too crowded. I don't think you can read the ocean well enough to be in there. Green left is an option if you can surf insiders, depends on take off. The spot you paddle to second you should start. Catch wide waves and the insiders there. You won't be in anyone's way, will catch far more waves and progress quicker.
It's a strange phenomenon that people just paddle out to join the pack. Once you learn to access the line up properly you'll often see better breaks where no one is. All part of learning to read the ocean.

>>239986
Thank you

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>bent fin
How big of a problem is this?
Also, daily reminder to always store your surfboard properly

>>240078
probably fine, plastic fins are kinda avg so not like you're losing high performance, should still function. Can probably be bent back.
>>240013
np I enjoy hearing what others think. It always intrigues me seeing how people analyse the line up. Its a crucial skill to git gud at surfing.

>>236948
>dude OMG i'm surfing just like the COOL BOOMERS from the 60s!!!!
>hey everyone check out my pathetically thin beard, receding hairline, effeminate lack of muscle tone and my epic forehead lines!!!
>I-I-IMMMM GOOONAAA SUUUUURRRRRRRRFFFFFFFF

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Floridafag here, only been surfing for a month, about to try surfing the hurricane, wish me luck anons

>>240583
i hope you're central/north florida and get absolutely barreled my guy - when it doubt grab rail and set the line (remember to look where you want to go)

also remember
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6spBu2XAk4A

How much more danger of a shark attack am I putting myself in by going out at/just before dawn, as opposed to the afternoon? I live in a shark prone area.

>>240659
They feed at dawn and dusk, when the winds are most favorable to surf.

>>240659
You're more likely to die in a car crash on the way to the beach. Don't even think about them.

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>>240583
Update: couldn't even paddle out to the breaks, kept getting swept back, got so exhausted I couldn't even pop up properly on the broken white waves (which also kept wiping me out even at waist deep water).
fuck

>>240865
no one said it was easy mate

>>240865
based and have a crack pilled

Can any of you guys surf decently? Erin swell will be hitting Europe this week

>>240964
I am ok but I am also not paddling out into 20ft swells

anybody in north florida

>>240666
what about in the middle of the night

>>237740

>>237740
forgot to include my message. Wear a rashie and rub Vaseline all of your chest it makes a big difference also keep surfs shorter than 90 mins

>>241153
Space coast here

>>241339
damn, I'm in Duval

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>>241343
Sorry to hear that

>>241344
"good" surf here is 1" swells, lol

>>241345
Trust me it's the same throughout the entire state man
I feel lied to, I didn't grow up surfing but surfing was everywhere so I assumed Florida must be good for surfing. Then I actually got into surfing and realized that was total BS.
I'm amazed kelly slater was as good as he is, considering maybe 5% of days out of the year are even possible on a shorter board

>>241346
Sebastian is the only place with waves above waist height, ain't it?

>>241347
Consistently? More or less yeah, but because of this fact the jetty is super packed and probably very localized. I wouldn't really know, I haven't been there myself yet
Are there any good spots up north where you are at anon?

>>241377
in Jax specifically? really just Pillars, in Hanna Park. even then, it's just 2-3 foot, and only during hurricane season when it's too cold to really enjoy. maybe during a hurricane you might get 5-7ft.

>>241379
>5-7ft
it's either 4 ft, 4-6ft, 6ft or 6-8ft

>>241400
I'm not using official notation, I'm giving a more direct estimate.

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>>241400
>it's either 4 ft, 4-6ft, 6ft or 6-8ft

Florida sucks don't come here, and we don't need anymore people in the lineup.

shorter waves = longer boards, right? so, for waves around 2', would a 7 or 8 foot board be better

>>241456
no you are wrong but lets okay lets take a second to dissect why.
1. you might want more volume but it depends on the steepness of the wave
2. you referred to "longer boards" and then suggested something in the reddit sizing zone (beyond 5ft 8) this was silly
3. You didn't discuss using soft tops.
With continued practice you can not post gay shit like above :D

>>241481
Duke was a better surfer than you and he never rode anything shorter than maybe 10'

>>241518
Could the duke even do a cutback?

>>241532
he could do it on a 150lb solid paulownia board, at Waimeia.

>>237740
Toughen them nips up until they're scabbed and peeling after. Ask me how I know lmao. Or rash guard like others have suggested.

Btw, check out https://YouTube.com/@shakashreds

Whoa, whoa guys, slow down!! I can't keep track of the thread, I am not used to it having these many replies this close to its OP birthday!

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>>240666
>They feed at dawn and dusk

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8NjUX8HZIFQ&pp=ygUSYXQgZGF3biB0aGV5IHNsZWVw

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>be me, yesterday
>go to sebastian inlet
>waves were gay, breaking on the beach, oh well
>far in the distance, see some big whitewater waves, breaking on what must be a reef or sandbar then traveling for a solid minute before hitting the beach
One of these days, when the wind is moving south/south west, I am going to take my longboard allllll the way out there and alllll the way back and it will be truly epic. Although maybe I should hire a jetski to get me out there so my shoulders don't fall off.

There was a shark attack at my local yesterday. took the guys life. Pretty tragic, was always considered a bit of a sharkey break but I'd never seen one in 20+ years.

Where is a good place to go to learn to surf? I live in a landlocked zone, and plan to travel to learn to surf in the coming spring (post snowboard season) looking for somewhere that is cost effective to spend a month or two learning to surf.

>>242135
What region of the world are you looking at?
Aus can be done cheap. Asian islands are cheap. South America spots can be cheap. Depends how much it costs you to get there etc.

>>242013
he died doing what he loved
>>242135
>>242196 this

how long do you guys surf for? When I was younger I was able to be out for a couple hours now that Im a oldfag (34) I am completely gaped after spending 2 hours in the water. Has anyone here had something similar and improved their fitness?

>>242395
Depends how many waves I am catching. I can burn out in 1 hour or sit around for 3.

>>242395
I'm 22, in okay(ish) shape and I'm pretty much gassed out by the 3 hour mark.
Are you in good shape? Hitting the gym/pool (or, even better, surfing) consistently + good diet will probably improve your stamina quite a bit.

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Anyone here have experience with picrel? Are they worth the money?
I seem to get very tired paddling out, and my popup tends to suffer accordingly

just surf more, i will say doing burpees with your popup improves it

>>244746
just do this
https://youtu.be/lSDi6J1LpGI?si=OzDmKo9uUg12QLmg

Need some help planning a trip to Maui
>>>/trv/2832610

>>244746
no but I've been surfing for a long time and literally its just about pushing through it all. The only thing you can really do is go swimming to improve your fitness or just surf unironically within ~ a year you'll notice you can stay out a lot longer

what are the best surf spots in Florida, and what is the best type of board for me in Florida?

>>247632
>surf spots in Florida
I can only speak to the Space Coast, but it's really all the same around here. We don't have reefs or anything, it's all beachbreaks. If you go to Satellite Beach, there is coquina rock which holds the sand out a bit and can improve things a little.
Other than that, Sebastian Inlet is the only spot that can really hold a big swell well.
>what is the best type of board for me in Florida?
Outside of a hurricane and maybe cold fronts, our waves are tiny and lack power. Longboard or a log.

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any other east coast anons feeling like picrel these past few weeks

>>247652
Anastasia Formation, google it. This anon isn't wrong, it's sebastian, satelite, daytona, st augstine and jax - south is shit; more north just go to obx

>>247632
log, funshape, or groveler(oversized fishy at leanest) (if you're asking this question a shortboard isn't for you)

Once the wax is on nobody will notice my shoddy repairs? Right?

>>244746
I was retarded enough to buy this, it’s a scam. Go look at surf simply or OMBE surf for free videos, I forgot which but one has videos on yoga and home workouts. Realistically just swim on the days you can’t surf and surf as much as possible.

>>248082
The nate florence has all you need imo.
I put a resistance band on my door for the cable pull ones. Do double arm pull downs, single arm pull downs, butterfly thing on stomach then finish with supermans. Pick reasonable reps, do 3 sets a coupe times a week and in a month and you'll certainly notice the difference in the water.

>>248082
>surf simply or OMBE

The world is really a smaller place...

>>242264
no he didnt

>>248117
this is what we call 'empty platitudes' aka
lip service

>>248117
>>248118
you guys are pussy, dying by shark although traumatic you got taken out surfing, can't get much better than that - would you rather rot away like an old bitch

>>248172
>would you rather rot away like an old bitch
Yes after a long life of surfing would be ideal.

Should my second surfboard be a big (6ft 8in) fish or a longboard?
I am able to stand up reliably on my foamie, now I want to work on my turns. I live in an area (florida) where the waves are like a foot tall most of the time

>>248867
A nice chunky 6'8 maybe with some rounded rails, decent width (21"+) and maybe 2.5" thick+ type thing could go well. I assume 1ft is at least a 2ft face.. if you drop too much volume you probably will struggle more than its worth to catch waves.

>>248172
>Here's some tedious tax audit paperwork you have to do that will take all day every day for weeks. You have to do it all by (date).
>Ack. LMAO NO I DON'T

Surfed for the first time in my life yesterday and did it again today. At the end of the day I felt like I had done something meaningful for the first time in a long time. I don't know if I'll do it more often but it was memorable, I didn't expect to be able to stand up on the board for almost every wave. Wingfoil is easier and comfier because you have to paddle less, but surf is more epic I think
/blog

>>250170
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uwtqRBE4Kk

>>250170
its a beautiful sport makes you feel like a king and all the most annoying minorities cant swim or they allergic to water

>>250369
Imagine living in a world where you forget Brazilians exist, must be nice

>>250372
lol true there aren't many brazzos where I am (south island NZ). I forgot about the last time I was on the gold coast and it was like a writhing mass of brazzos.

Surfing a spot tomorrow I haven't really surfed when properly breaking and shitting my pants. I shouldn't, but I am.

>>250509
plz be nazare

>>250546
kek, no, why? What if it isn't Nazaré? It was a quite average reef break, but I have a fixative mindset and quite strong self-suggestion trips

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I had a good surf this past weekend my first in a while

Bought my first real hard-top board today, 9ft longboard. Hopefully will not look like such a kook by being on a foamie anymore. Feels good man

>>250667
>It was a quite average reef break

oh is that all.

>>251042
Yeah, why?

>>251419
because I would like to have one of those around but I don't

Looking to get back into surfing at almost 29 after a 10 year break. I am 10kg heavier than I used to be and that will probably be an issue, but my mobility is good. Conditioning to be seen. I was at the beach this past weekend but the sea was totally flat. I tested my pop up on the ground and it's decent, it's balance that's to be seen.

Should I even be thinking about a shorter board after ~three months (surfing every single day)

>>253139
probably not unless its like mal to mid length

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I just saw nazare highlights for the first time. one of the coolest things Ive ever seen

loved it. obsessed. wipeouts were nuts

>>250674
Happy for you plz keep it up.
>>251009
Good work you can migrate off those reasonable quickly with practice
>>253062
Keep it up the weight causes issues but if you shred it you'll rip quickly

>>253601
based motivator

>surfing twice a day
>Beginner but making progress
>Get my shit rocked by overhead waves
>Develop fear of waves, hard to commit to anything more than chest-high
>Move back home away from beach for like 8 months
>Move to hawaii and trying to get back into it
>Out of shape
>Fear of rocks after cutting my feet up first day (old surfing grounds was sandbar)
How do I get back into this and stop being a pussy? I can paddle my old board but haven't caught a clean wave yet, and worry all my skill is gone

>>253705
Next bigger day just paddle out at high tide, be very patient, then when you spot your wave 100% commit and paddle as hard as you can. You'll 99% likely catch it fine and realise it's all in your head.

Here there has been 5 shark attacks in the last two days. Three bitten, two bumped off their boards. This is after that guy died earlier this summer. The time to cull was yesterday.

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>>253731
>Be very patient
This was the key, thanks anon. I've been missing my first wave of the session and then going for worse and worse waves that come in trying to catch anything. Or worse, trying to catch clean waves when I know I'm out of position for them and getting discouraged. Today I made a point of sitting on the beach for longer, and not paddling for anything that wasn't perfect. Got a few that I just knew were mine and caught them as you said. Not the longest rides, but solid takeoffs. Now I know I might be a bit rusty, but I can still surf

>>253139
Ymmv but when I started and was surfing everyday I ditched the longboard after a month and got a 7'6 minimal which I kept for a year before I went down to a 6'6 extra wide and thick surfboard. Didn't go for a smaller board until you can paddle your current one like a rocket, catch 90% of the waves you paddle for, and can turn it to get down the line

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>go on surf trip to tropical destination (Phillippines)
>it's a small-ish island and the swell wraps around both ends so there's always a break that's offshore
>spend my days cruising around on my scooter and cathcing clean waves every single day
>some days it's triple overhead and barrelling other days it's a 2ft pointbreak longboarding wave but it's clean every day
>drink fresh coconut water after sessions and at night go party and pick up local and tourist sluts
>come back home
>back to the office
>waves are shit and blown out most days, and when it's good I have to work

Words cannot even describe how horrible this feeling is

>>239981
A wave like that has literally never broken in Perth.

>>240584
I grabbed rail yesterday and kept looking down the line. Either I would shoot like a rocket and miss the coverage or the foamball would blind me and I would end up getting tossed by the lip (and hopefully look like those ...Lost video riders who just get those grimy crumbling barrels).

>>254520
based slot machine enjoyer

>>254544
Cha ching.

https://youtu.be/7KpI5VXuDUk

How do you know if you're outrunning the wave and need to slow down or do a cutback? Is it just the "wall" next to you flattening out?

>>254571
I spent days thinking of an answer and the best I got is you just feel it.. like is the wave pushing you? if no, get closer to the pocket..

>>254544
But why slot machine?

>>254301
damn i know this fucking feel