does rattlecan testors dullcote desature colors a lot?

i tried brushing on the 50/50 matte varnish/contrast medium mix from the ducan varnish video but thought my model looked pretty desaturated afterwards

>>97484786
a little bit, not a lot. Make sure you shake the can very very thoroughly or it can go on opaque.

>>97484689
What is that burgundy in the recesses of thr fleshy bits here? How was it applied?

Are those cheap 40 dollarish air brushes worth it? Or am I wasting my money untill reaching more like the 100 dollar price point?

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I got this rust monster at convention from a discounted blind bag for broken prints. It was missing an antenna so I crafted one from plasticard. Unfortunately I was being clumsy and dropped it and had to glue it back together. I can't be too mad because it was heavily discounted.

Does dishwasher soap strip paint from miniatures?

>>97484906
>broken prints
>heavily discounted
so you paid less than a dollar for it?

>>97485039
It was a blind bag of 5 with at least one being a big one for a total of $5.

>>97484948
No. Use rubbing alcohol.

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So i was gifted an old land raider and stripped the paint off, re primed the model, and am getting these weird textures from the paint. I’ve had success stripping smaller miniatures in iso alcohol before so i’m not really sure what the problem is. Is this maybe leftover paint or just a bad texture from priming? Would it be best to continue or should i strip it again?

>>97485048
So yes, alright then.
Glad to hear it, usually people selling prints are highway robbers with pricing.

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Wood elf general planning phase

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Repostan tonk. Wondering what to work on next. Got a rhino and a vindicator I've already started but I want a break from vehicles for a while.

>>97485056

What if the model is resin?

>>97485069
I've seen weird buildup and cracking like that from a priming job gone bad. You probably won't notice all those gnarly bits when it's down on the tabletop but personally I would strip it again.

>>97485225
probably fine for resin since you are only letting it soak for 5 to 10 minutes

if you leave it in for hours it could be bad so don't do that

>>97485225
People say simple green.
Honestly though I don't advocate stripping minis in general unless they're metal and you can use the real chemicals.
Just reprime it and start over

>>97485163
These chaos marines sure do keep their tanks in pristine condition. Also, fuck that guy's eldar! (not really)

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I am painting these guys really irresponsibly and I'm gonna kick myself later for jumping around on them the way I am.

Trying to remove paint from old models; Should I get 91% IPA or 99%?

>>97485345
99% is best if you can get it and is usually cheapest as well

don't go below 90%

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>>97482051
canadian loonie (26.5mm) for scale. took 24h to print 5 pieces of terrain using ~100g of filament but i can't even see the layer lines without the macro lens

>>97485490
what's the plan to hide those layer lines? or are you leaving them like that?

>>97484906
come on nigga this is like the 3rd model you have posted in as many days that looks like it got snowed on. what are you doing?

>>97485589
leaving them like that, literally can't see the layer lines from 8 inches away and i picked the world part of the mini i could find (that sloping rock top.) with 0.06mm layer height I'm assuming primer+paint will largely make them disappear. I'll prime them tonight and post results.
i'll probably end up getting a resin printer when it comes to printing minis because cleaning up the FDM supports is rough, plus the higher resolution and less visible layer lines

>>97485490
>>97485589
Most people resin print terrain at 0.05mm to save time. You'd only get a 20% improvement on layer line visibility and it comes with the pain of working with resin, cleaning it, curing it, the smell. If you're only printing terrain stick with FDM.

>>97485619
i have an fdm printer, i just can't stand seeing the lines

>>97485490
>i can't even see the layer lines without the macro lens
>>97485657
That's been my experience. At 8 inches away/painting distance I can't see the layer lines on a 0.06mm print unless it's like the top of that rock in the picture and I angle it so the light catches the edges. Layer lines always look worse in macro

>>97485294
>dip in 99% IPA overnight
>scrub in the same IPA
99.5% of paint will go right away, and the remaining will go away with harder scrubbing.

>>97485080
Yeah their prices seemed reasonable, Reaper prices.

>>97485613
You could try a filler primer.

>>97485594
You're probably thinking of someone else because I got these preprimed.

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Finished my kanz - tried to do some freehand on all of them to keep practising - now for more boys.

>>97486042
Oi, dat blue lookin nice and lucky.

>>97486042
>Blue white and gold
>There's three of them

the one in the front is going to be captain of Dah Sekund Krumpany next time we see him.

Shame about Kappin' Krakaran and Koy'Ron dying to that Genestealer.

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Reposting some dwarf lasses for C&C

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Finished my brain bug.

>>97486308
arigatou, sensei

>>97486275
I like the freehands. The hair could use some shading. The skirt and frog suit are also pretty flat.

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>>97486308
>Finished my brain bug.
What's it thinking, colonel?

>>97486275
The eyes are well painted but pointing in different directions. The green parts of the eyepatch dwarf is really flat and could use some more shading and highlights

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>lookin' good
Enjoy my latest finished dude /WIP/

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cleaned up the white but now I need to clean up my cleaning up the white.
such is life for shaky hands

>>97487189
don't forget to turn off the flash for minis

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>>97487361

>>97487419
Nice photo composition

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I'm not sure if Tau Light Ocre is a good highlight for leather. Right is them after highlighting. The lines are too stark. I may have to do a Rinox Hide gloss over them.
How do you guys do leather?

>>97487605
It kinda works but yeah something less yellow-ish would work better. Use something like Karak Stone if you want it cold and something like Doombull Brown if you want it warmer.

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Finished my Tactical Warsuit. Replaced the Space Marine with a normal Astra Militarum soldier since I always thought the Tactical Warsuit looked inappropiate for big bulky Space Marines.

>>97487634
Based, I also wanted to do this. That said, unarmored roll cage is still a bit silly.

>>97487630
I already used doombull brown for the thicker highlight. I guess I'll try glazing that over the ocre rather than rhinox hide. Good call.

>>97487648
Yeah, thought so too, it reminded me of the super old Sentinel model from 25 years ago where the pilot didn't even had a roof above his head.

>>97487650
oh all right, well you could go with what GW recommends for highlighting doombull brown which is tuskgor fur

>>97487697
Ah shit, I thought it was Tau Light Ocre.

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>>97487700
You're right. GW might recommend one thing, but the actual box art painting scheme is another matter.

>>97487713
Here they use Skrag Brown for the first highlight though. So he should at least switch one of the colors depending if he wants it reddish or yellowish

>>97487700
>oh no I thought it was light brown, not light brown!
don't forget to use magmatic daemon diarrhea to highlight your infernal flaming feces.

>>97487733
nta but fuck off, faggot

>>97487736
NTA, but the naming is no only cringe, but unhelpful.

Who are your favorite mini painters you look to for inspiration these days?

>>97487753
yes they're stupid but we were specifically discussing GW paints

>>97487778
and the fact is that in a vacuum one shade of light brown is effectively identical to another shade of light brown.
the tones of the other colors you use it with, your particular basing choice and the background it is viewed againt are going to have far more impact on it's percieved hue value than the minor difference between trademark name A and trademark name B

>>97487867
>and the fact is that in a vacuum one shade of light brown is effectively identical to another shade of light brown
Ridiculous thing to say when it comes to brown in particular.

What kind of tools do I actually need for making so called panel lines on scratchbuild parts? One of the tools at local shop looked exactly like the one I use to cut plastic/glass by marking line and snapping at it so I'm little confused.

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>>97487901
A cheap scribing tool with bits (or fancy ones, whatever) and they sell tape specifically for that that is hard and very sticky that you can apply and use as a straight edge guide.
I find the scribing tools actually come in handy pretty often for cleaning up minis as well.

>>97487928
why do panels lines trigger the same neurons as seeing a sexy woman?

>>97487970
beauty is beauty

>>97485294

What's the equivalent of simple green available in central Europe, Poland specifically? I botched a basecoat on a patch of printed miniatures and I wouldn't want to throw them away due to my earlier failure.

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>>97488072
>Poland

I recommend this little shit, from company Wamod. Surprisingly gentle to plastic while dissolving even old and thick paint layers. Dip for few minutes, ideally in sealed jar or something, take out, wash with water (with detergent) and scrub with old toothbrush. Just don't breath the fumes. Seriously, don't.

>>97488169
Is that purple heart?

>>97488169
>je-mee-wack-zz
Pronunciation close or no?

>>97488191
Not even close anon.

>>97488202
is this one of those instances where the established phonetic value of the specific letters involved is completely ignored?

>>97488191
nta but go type zmywacz on google translate or something, I don't know even know how to write it phonetically lmao

>>97488213
I thought it would be obvious because I can pick out the words that mean "ideally" "acrylic" "colour" and "characteristic" and I have no learning exposure to polish specifically, only german.

>>97488169

Dziękuję, I thought of getting some isopropyl alcohol from Leroy Merlin.

Can I just dip a toothbrush in the stuff and scrub it against the model?

>there are at least 3 polacks in this thread
I hope you're all femboys like the internet told me

>>97488272
A) the conversation has only proven 2 and definitively proven that 1 participant is not.
B) you're injecting your sexuality again, bottom, GTFO

>>97488322
It was a joke, chill out anon. I'm not that sissy fag

>>97488272
I'm just dude, bro.
Femboy memes are just that. Never seen a femboy in my life.

>>97488178
Yes, indeed. I have soft spot for her.

>>97488242
Could work if paint is thin, I would dip it anyway. If you pour some to glass jar and close the lid, you should be fine, can always reuse it like that.

>>97488272
>>97488322
Memes write themselves, when I was at anime con I saw several traps so...

>>97488467
>Yes, indeed. I have soft spot for her.
I like her sister. However I still can't believe she did that to rom and ram...

>>97488467

Is there a risk of IPA destroying a resin model if it stays there for too long?

>>97488522
yes

>>97488522
No idea about resin but it could damage plastic if left for prolonged time. It, however, evaporate very quickly so quick, few minutes dips should be safe. No idea about resin, however.

>>97488542
>it could damage plastic if left for prolonged time
that's not correct

>>97488545
Last time I checked, IPA could react with plastic if left for literal hours but short times inside of spraying over the model is safe due to mentioned quick evaporation.

>>97488209
>established phonetic value of the specific letters involved is completely ignored?
If you mean the value for the English pronunciation implying such a thing even exists, then yes. If you mean the value for Polish, then no, it's generally pronounced very consistently.

>>97488509
Conquest route is not canon ;_;

>>97488169
>wamod
dzięki, w życiu nie spodziewałbym się czegoś dobrego po Wamodzie, ale patrzcie państwo. NTA jakby co :)

>>97488272
>I hope you're all femboys like the internet told me
I'm not, and I haven't seen a femboy here in... years, if ever. Then again, I don't go to gay gatherings nor anime conventions.

>>97488522
Depends on the resin.

>>97488242
>I thought of getting some isopropyl alcohol from Leroy Merlin.
Do it anyway and put some into a mini-atomiser, it's great for cleaning paint that hasn't dried fully and other stuff.

>>97488542
No, it can't damage the usual plastic minis are made of.
t. kept some minis there for a month

>>97488227
Those are loan words.

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My another broadside but in RETURN TO MONKE edition

>>97488643
Neato

>>97488643
that's rad!

>>97488643
but why?

all of this "will x damage my plastic" talk makes me want to get a fdm printer so I can make miniatures out of nylon

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>>97488643
cool zoid

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>>97488705
why not? Broadsides have like ony 2 poses in general and they are booring. I dont want to have 6 same pose mechs

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Tried to paint for the first time for a long time

>>97488643
>RETURN TO MONT'KA

>>97488877
Humblebrag?

>>97488890
The what now?

>>97488522
Play it safe and only submerge it for a minute, scrub and rinse. If it's photoresin, leaving it out in the sun hardens it.

t. Dumbass who left resin models in IPA too long

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>>97487189
>finished

>>97488935
It's when you say something that seems self-deprecating but is actually a brag.
>I'm such an idiot, I accidentally broke my Rolex on vacation in the Maldives.

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I tried a little bit of greenstuff kitbashing since the official models are quite expensive
Tried to keep the silhouettes the same at least

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>>97489139
Shit, yeah. Obvious now that I read it outeloud.

Yeah, this is probably bestbä work I have ever painted, but I really have not done any of my minis in few years. I saw a YouTube video of someone showing how to do wet blending I just went for it.

>>97488643
R A D

>>97489288
It's cool man, I was just poking fun. Your model looks good.

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>>97489041
3ft rule

>>97488522
I've forgotten some prints in my isopropyl jar for a week and when they came out there was some funny squiggly lines on them that indicated degradation, but they painted up fine,
a few hours is no problem though.

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>>97488877
Very pleasant colors! Pretty impressive if that's your first work after an extended break.
>>97488643
So goofy, I love it.
>>97487634
Nice and clean!
>>97486308
Your scheme feels very balanced and the carapace looks great.
>>97486275
Cute ladies. I'm going to second that their hair would benefit from some shading.
>>97486042
Lovely work anon, I like the weathering a lot. It's really fun seeing different takes on these models.

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Mummies for TK.
Close enough for government work.

>>97490134
>TK
??

>>97490148
Oh, tomb kings.
I'm retarded and was like "backwards kill team?"

>painting setup is all in the basement, which is cold as fuck due to weather
>cant paint when I cant feel my fingers
>get a shitty heater fan thing
>it causes every single atom of moisture within 10 miles to evaporate and leave my paint pallet dry as fuck
I honestly fucking hate painting in winter.

>>97486731
Thanks for the feedback, but plz dont tell me that about the eyes. Let's just pretend that everything is perfect and I dont need to do it again

>>97490019
Thanks kawaaii-neko-mitshubishisan I'll run some shading on the hair

>>97490700
then paint in the kitchen

This might be a retarded question, so please bare with me.

I've done a lot of mini painting but I've never really done terrain. I'm wanting to get into it, and I've watched a bunch of YouTube videos. The videos I've watched have all said to not waste mini paint on terrain and you can use craft paint. A lot of them specifically have said they use Apple Barrel from Walmart.

Do I need to thin the Walmart craft paint? I've been trying to use it and it's horribly uneven in coverage. But when I try thinning it with water it loses pretty much all its pigment and I'd need to do layer after layer to get it to show up. Which, that would in theory be fine but I've been having to wait around 20 minutes between layers for the paint to dry.

Idk sorry if I'm just retarded but I'm not sure what to do be doing here. I want to make nice terrain but this paint is so sloppy.

>>97488877
Cool painterly look.

>>97488643
Bonus points if you can turn it into a coconut gun

If someone had to learn to paint from scratch, without employing the use of videos from sloptubers, how would you suggest they do so?

>>97491138
ask other people

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>>97485490
went out and bought the 200ml vallejo black primer
>first time using an airbrush
>don't mix enough paint to prime 1/4 of a piece of terrain
>mix more but don't realize until i clog the thing 4 times that it's way too thick
>clear the clogs with water + back pressure
>on last mini and dual action air brush is basically single action it's so clogged
>leave minis to dry, tear down airbrush and get it back to factory new
>priming job is super spotty with thin spots on some models
i think i'm below average even among first time airbrush users. by the end i remember to start air > start paint > stop paint > stop air and i would mix the paint thin then thicken if needed instead of thick to thin. tearing down the airbrush gave me a lot more confidence with the thing too. vallejo says it dries to the touch in 15-30 mins but takes 24-48h to cure so i'll be back tomorrow with some painting

>>97491138
When I first started I would just try to replicate the source material/a paint job I liked. Turned it into a 3d coloring book baisically, and had to find out how to make the right colors with what I had. After that, was just seeing techniques and trying to replicate them.

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>>97488877
>>97486042
>>97486308
>>97486275

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Good lord, I didn't even finish blocking in stuff tonight and I probably need to do a second coat on the base for the copper stuff.
These guys are looking more like they're going to end up taking more of the month than I was expecting.

>>97491138
Either by trial and error or by reading old White Dwarf magazines. That's how I did it before youtube. Then again, one good tutorial video can teach you what 100+ hours of experience would not.

>>97484689
Any advice for painting bulky vehicles? I can paint my guys alright, but I have a few vehicles and tanks that I've been putting off painting.

I'm thinking about hitting them with rattlecan primer->airbrush block painting->detail work with brushes->hit it with some washes->dab on some enamel weathering/rust shit

>>97491450
Look at photos of real life vehicles for inspiration. Night Shift on Youtube does lots of tanks, you might find something useful there.

>>97491265
What is this model? Really cool sculpt, and the paint job isn't half bad either!

>>97490019
>Global rule 13: Do not use avatars or attach signatures to your posts.

>>97491316
They got a lot of surface area.

does water based primer even etch the plastic? has anyone done any durability comparisons?

>>97485069
Maybe the alcohol somehow lingered in the plastic? That does kinda look like alcohol damage to the paint. Id say strip again (for sure) but try waiting a week before you re-prime and paint it.

>>97491478
Yes goobertown has done comparisons. His conclision was that given ample time (about a week) painting straight onto bare plastic offers no worse durability than most "primers". The answer is basically this: if its not in a rattle can, its not real primer, just paint designed to easily go onto bare plastic. The accelerant in rattlecans is the part that does the etching, and real primer would ruin an airbrush. That said that "goes onto bare plastic easily" part is quite nice so I like to still do it, as I can be quick and sloppy with my prime and it makes putting the base coat on easier.

>>97491332
Weird cum man.

>>97491199
Smell it. If smells like primer, its not done curing. Takes like a week in some climates. But if you are not going to drybrush most people can get away with painting the same day as priming without it chipping so long as you are using a painting handle and not rubbing your fingers on the minis.

>>97484786
I dont get the obsession with hypermat varnishing these days. Yes it will change the way your paint looks, that what matte / satin / gloss does is change the surface finish i.e. how intense the light reflections are. Just think of those matte black cars vs the glossy black ones. Surface finish is part of what makes a color the color it is. Its like color = hue + saturation + surface finish or something like that.

>>97491593
>real primer would ruin an airbrush
Not really, decanting a spraypaint/rattlecans to use for airbrush use is an ancient, and well-tested scale model technique. You just have to find a proper thinner for it.

>>97491593
>just paint designed to easily go onto bare plastic
Yes, to prime it for painting, thus being a primer
Do you think spray primer etches metal? Does it stop being a primer?

>>97491199
a technique I use when priming with the airbrush is to manually pull the needle back further than the trigger normally allows for maximum paint flow, but don't get the airbrush too close to the model when you are doing that either.

>airbrushes are very capable of fine details if you get really in there right up to the model
>but are also capable covering very wide areas with enough paint flow and distance
>too much paint too close makes a really big mess
>you'll just have to get a feel for the right distance with practice

Polyurethane has a very distinct smell as the other anon said and can take a day or several to fully cure depending on the weather.

>>97491617
high gloss finishes on miniatures can look really ugly because of the scale and as game pieces they end up with opponents asking if they are dry and safe to touch.

>>97491332
go to a doctor

>>97486454
kek

>>97491617
reflections in small models with lots of details distract the eye and make it harder to read a model, more so in pictures, think how you can barely tell details on a bare metal model
also if you make the model very matt overall you can play with different other varnishes on other parts to make shinny leather, or metals stand out more or present something as wet or polished

not much time for painting today but i did manage to assemble and basecoat some lads

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>>97491850
ope

>>97491625
doesn't automotive primer do that?

>>97491854
at some point I started seeing the head cutouts as toilets and now I can never unsee it. why is the 40k aesthetic to have more negative neck the more powerful you're supposed to be?

>>97491875
don't try to look into 40k's anatomy, functionality or mechanics, it's a dead end
keep your suspension of disbelief as long as you can

>>97491875
Thanks, now I can't unsee it.

>>97491882
>guardsman: head is where it's supposed to be
>space marine: ears are level with shoulders
>terminator marine: head is squarely between shoulders
>imperial knight: head is well below the arms

>>97491943
So the bigger they are, head moves lower? I would expect Titans to have head at their crotch then.

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First minis I've finished in like a year
C&C welcomed

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>>97491970

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>>97491974

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>>97491977

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>>97491984

How is Ak interactive’s “perfect cleaner” for cleaning airbrushes to keep them clean and cleaning the thing when switching from one acrylic paint primer or varnish to another?
I read that isopropyl alcohol can be damaging so I want to skip on that.

>>97492023
I recommend Vajello. It's pretty good

>>97492023
>I read that isopropyl alcohol can be damaging so I want to skip on that

It can be damaging to rubber seals but many new airbrush models move towards teflon seals, which are resistant.

>>97492050
>>97492039
Thanks. I’ve been using isopropyl alcohol for a while. I hope not enough to damage my airbrush.
Ghad 68 if I recall correctly.
I’ll be honest I’m pretty terrible with the airbrush. I just cant get it right and to be honest I think it is just me at the moment.
Which is why I haven’t given up on the airbrush yet.
It’s why I stick with just priming, but I plan to try gloss and then ultra matte varnishing.

>>97492023
>How is Ak interactive’s “perfect cleaner” for cleaning airbrushes
It's fine, but one of the main parts of that cleaner is IPA. IPA might damage the rubber seals/o-rings, but only if yours are not teflon coated, which, at this point, only the shittiest (or straight up ancient) airbrushes use. Then again, who knows with cheap chinkbrushes.

If you really want to go with dedicated airbrush cleaner (and not just mix your own/use IPA), I recommend Medea. You can get huge bottle for fairly cheap, it will last you forever.

>>97492023
ipa damaging cheap buna-n o-rings is blown out of proportion
they will be fine
>https://www.marcorubber.com/o-ring-chemical-compatibility-chart.htm#chemId=1108

acetone or butyl acetate (the stuff in tamiya's airbrush cleaner for example) might damage them, but again with the usage in an airbrush unless you dip the thing in acetone for a day it won't damage them either before you have to change them due to wear anyways

Has anyone tried AK's new wash line? The last couple of bottles of army painter dark tone I've used have been super glossy, and I'm tired of matt varnishing.

>>97491970
>>97491974
>>97491977
>>97491984
>>97491987
SOVLFVL paint job, Anon. Love the colors; they look like they stepped out of a schlocky 80s horror movie.

>>97491258
>>97491265
Nice rust, how did you do it?

>>97491332
It's cum-anon!

>>97491332
whatever that is could be cool to make bioluminescent pools in a cave or those weird glowing plankton on beaches. But I'm assuming that's supposed to be ice? idk what it is anon I'm sorry

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I could have used AI but fuck that

Anyone else shoop out paint schemes?

>>97492593
it's pretty easy to just use the replace color feature in photoshop to change the hue and tone of colors in official model photos, and you can constrain it pretty tight to even just changing the highligh colors. But fuck paying for adobe products anymore.

>>97492685
NTA but I still use a pirated copy of CS2. Has everything I need for simple editing

>>97491875
Theoretically, they're hunched with their head leaning forward.
In reality, the other anon is correct- suspension of disbelief is necessary to fully enjoy 40k aesthetics.

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>>97492767
Forgot to attach pic rel, a middle ground.

>>97492772
>Fuck this random guardsman

>>97492692
I wish I knew how to get that anon, I used to use CS2 and it basically does all I need, but alas I am computationally retarded

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Sorry, I don't speak brand.

Is this just chartreuse?

>>97492832
No. It's formulated to settle a yellow pigment in thicker areas and then fade out into the green translucent medium as it settles/dries.

>>97492832
It's a proto-Contrast paint

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Is there a specific process that /wip/ uses when weathering and adding battle-damage to shields? The top left and middle are my most recent ones, not sure which one is better. What does /wip/ think?

>>97492916
Looks about like I'd do it. I might lean a little more into sponge chipping but for tiny person shields that might not read well.
On the yellow one, the scratch/split on the top of the shield is edge highlighted on the wrong side though.
I assume you know this because the big chip at the bottom is correct. On the yellow you can also add a darker yellow edge 'highlight' on the top edges around chips in addition to the actual edge highlights on the bottom edges to further emphasize the 3d effect. Wouldn't work well on the black though.

>>97492916
Looks good to me.

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>>97493000
Would you mind marking the scratch? I thought you were supposed to have a bright color around the chipping. Anyway, thanks for the feedback.

>>97491332
what game? in a (looks like) 3'x3' square I don't see many of the usual culprits except maybe kill team.

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>>97492832
No. Not really. Also, it's basically a contrast paint

>>97492916
I think these look great honestly. If you really want to go an extra mile maybe you could add some dents or something? You know, actually change the shape a little bit

>>97492832
Looks like it's basically just Green to me.

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Did some shading to the hair and tried some eye fixups, how's it looking

>>97492299
I don't use airbrushes, but I do use a lot of other tools with o-rings, it should be really easy to replace a damaged one before it actually fails to function anyway. You can almost always see it getting eaten away before it stops working. They're dirt cheap in any size you need.

>>97492772
that pic kind of works because it has nothing to do with the models proportions, like look at the size of the gauntlets, or the width to height ratio

>>97492799
just go to r/piracy, there's links for everything

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fucked up his face a bit but the rest seems alright

>>97488610
>>97488609
>>97488467
>>97489000
>>97489773

Once again you are my greatest ally /WIP/. The IPA works and has not damaged the prints yet. Even a quick scrub gets rid of the paint. Primer needs longer immersion. I'll resume after I've given some models a longer, 30 minute dip to push my luck.

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>>97490987
>Do I need to use/thin the Walmart craft paint?
>need to
Nah. It's not so much exactly what you're using, more that a full 48"x72" board of terrain can suck up the better part of a pound of paint and at $5+ per half-ounce that's completely unsustainable. Apple Barrel is just the cheapest shit you can find that will still hold pigment.
I personally go to the art store and buy bigass tubes of Mars Black, Neutral Grey, Payne's Grey (it's a dark blue-black-grey), Burnt Umber, Yellow Ochre, and Red Ochre plus a tub of matte medium. They cost about as much per tube as 2-3 bottles of minis paint for 10 times as much, and it's most of your "dirt" colors covered. Spend a little more and get an acrylic white ink, you'll never use a chalky white again.

>When I try thinning it with water it loses pretty much all its pigment
Depends on what you're painting. You really can just slop it onto MDF and foam, you only need to thin it until it's not showing brush-strokes anymore. Anything you're gonna cover with grass or flock doesn't even need that. You can do fine details and focal points with better paint. But absolutely no-one looks at your dirt that closely, and for things like stippling texture onto a rock face unthinned paint actually helps.
I also recommend "priming" MDF and foam pieces to help keep them from warping and sucking up so much paint. Basically just lightly tint some waterproof PVA glue like Mod-Podge with ink or paint - don't thin it - and paint it on with a cheap synthetic brush. It'll seal the top layer and let you spray-prime the piece in one pass. Lightly sanding all the burnt areas on MDF (1-2 swipes with an emery board) and wiping it down with a damp cloth will help keep the char from getting in your paint

>>97491466
shut the fuck up and KYS, tourist.

>>97491970
If your goal was to inject Slaanesh directly into my skull-sockets, you have succeeded

>>97493067
Most skirmish-to-platoon level /awg/s use a ~36x36 table.

>>97491625
It stops it from being a good primer. That’s why metal models are notoriously awful and chip easily and a lot. Everyone hates painting metal minis.

>>97485967
>their prices seemed reasonable
>seemed
I take it this means you do not print.
So 1 kilogram of resin is $40-$50, that is something like ~1500 milliletres of resin and the average 32mm scale figurine takes between 8-10 milliletres of resin to print, plus another ~50% of that in resin for supports.
The effort to produce the print is just a few button clicks on the computer, a few minutes of wait for processing, move the flash drive, click the print button and then wait an hour to 4 hours for the job to be done, time spent doing sometthing else, then post-print is swirl in isopropyl and dip in hot water to gently remove supports, which if done properly is no effort at all unless the particular sculpt is quite fragile, then you might take 5-10 minutes carefully cutting support tips one by one with a hobby knife.
The dollar value of a printed 32mm scale human sized miniature should not be more than $1 accounting for a profit margin.
So even reaper prices are egregious gouging.
Printing for profit is not a viable business, it is too cheap and easy for hobbyists to just get their own and it themselves, all the prints for sale I've ever seen are literal highway robbery when you factor for material costs, direct time involved and labor intensity.

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Current progress on my french commander. Freehand Fluer-de-lis looks Ok-ish I think.

>>97494054
>shut the fuck up and KYS, tourist.
I've been here longer than you, avatarfagging was never approved of.

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current wip

>>97494413
Everyone that posts his work here a lot is essentially an avatarfag, chill out. That anon is never shitposting so he gets a pass in my book.

>>97494462
Not the same and that anon frequently goes off topic to discuss his anime of focus.

>>97494525
then feel free to report him for breaking the rules instead of trying to play janny because you're now posting off-topic as well

>>97494539
Or he could correct himself. Now stop dragging me off-topic.

>>97494572
check your spam folder ;)

>>97494576
Oh no, all the packages are being held up until I enter my details!

Sorry, I don't get your joke.

>>97494443
Looking alright. The gold blends into the bones a lot though, you might want to differentiate those two more.

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>>97493054
It's very nitpicky. The scratch on the top edge of the shield, the highlight should be on the other side of the scratch imo.
bright colors all around the edge of a chip is maybe kind of 'eavy metal, but it's not really right. If the goal is to simulate the hard edge of chipped paint like a hard step change in the surface and that bottom edge is catching a highlight, the top edge is actually casting a shadow onto the chipped area, not catching a highlight.
It does look like you're doing this already for the chips nearer to the bottom of the shield, so I'm not sure if it was just a coincidence or you already know this.

There is a case where you would just indiscriminately do a different colour around the whole chip, if you were trying to simulate a primer/undercoat - like you could do it with the black and yellow since the black is presumably painted onto the yellow, and not directly onto the wood. But if everything were painted on a lighter primer coat then it would make sense to do have some of that chipping a bit differently, but you would still have those step changes and highlights/shadows done in the same way, just 2 passes of them.

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Any others have issues with Tamiya glue or is this a skill issue? Small bits always seem to fall off when I begin to spray unless I load it up with glue. I always used the Citadel before and rarely had any issues, but I ran out of my last bottle and my buddy gave me a bottle of his Tamiya glue. Ever since I’ve had bits falling off while painting and sometimes even while playing. Right now I’m figuring it’s worth it to just cough up the extra couple of bucks for the Citadel product than deal with this over and over. Is there some technique that I’m missing, am I just becoming careless or is there really a quality difference?

>>97494862
Thanks a lot anon, this is exactly the feedback I wished for. I don't actually have any chipping on the chevrons, that's a beige I used while drybrushing and some got on the shield, added some more for a sloppy weathering effect.

>>97494985
I was trying to find the old 3d hand painted textures tutorials I originally learned this stuff from, but it seems like the guy who made them has since disappeared with all his stuff off of the internet (A channel called Metric Meditation(Jamin Shoulet) a texture artist who worked at blizzard in the early 2000's and on vanilla WoW).
There is a newer channel that I can't vouch for that seems like it covers a lot of the same stuff though called KairoSmith. I'm by no means the best mini painter but I feel like 2d painted texture map concepts have a lot of specific carry over to mini painting.

You have to go to the more retro workflows though because the art pipeline even for hand-painted style textures is different and more procedural now and rely on baking the shading from real geometry even for stylized stuff. Fanny Vergne's work as an example. The older stuff was still all painted manually.

>>97491455
thanks. knucklebone minis. I like their stuff.

>>97491970
these are all so fantastic. great job. love the variety of colours! each mini feels individual yet coherent.

>>97493067
I dunno. It was a shelf thing that I had sitting around so I figured I'd do something with it. I don't actually play games much at all.

>>97494253
I might repaint them? They look a bit goofy. Very hard to paint something with so many curves.

>>97494443
looks pretty decent. might wanna clean up the bones a bit. I like the spear tip

>>97492455
I used dirty down and inks (burnt umber, burnt sienna) and the AK rust effects aren't bad either.

It's not cum.

>It's not cum.
He doth protest too much.

>>97494886
Tamiya glue is the best on the market in my opinion, what exactly are you doing? Keep in mind: since it's not actually glue but a solvent, it relies on surface connection, not body.

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>>97484689
Taking a break from painting black armours to practice more with one of my favourite colours to paint, gold.
Got some secondhand aos minis for very cheap, and testing some very similar shades of dark, non-orangey golds.
Usually I make my own gold recipe with gsw pigments but this is definitely faster, still have to make up some recipes but here's how these paints look like in the unlikely case anyone is interested

They are all one coat drybrushed over black vallejo spray can primer which is glossier than gw chaos black and quite nice for metallics.

>>97495468
Drybrushed? That looks like wetbrushed to me. The gold is all the way in the crevices.

>>97495503
I prefer the term moistbrushed.

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>>97495554

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not gonna lie, i'm not liking this one

>>97495308
Well, it’s functionally equivalent to the citadel glue as a plastic glue/solvent. I’m applying a little bit to both the piece I’m gluing it to and the bit itself, stick together and hold for about 10 seconds. Then when I’m finished I’ll let the models rest for about day before spraying. Maybe I’m not applying enough to melt the plastic enough? The brush applicator is nice, but sometimes I can’t tell if I’m getting enough onto it.

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>>97484689
Posting the first two "finished" members of my Inquisition warband. I feel like i can go back and touch up some highlights and assorted details, but these are good enough for now. The leather coat feels a bit flat, i regret washing it. The color tone looks better but all the work i put into random scratches and highlights is now slightly hidden

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Knocked up a quick and dirty test model, thought some kind of kintsugi-ish pattern on the armored bits could be cool. Not entirely sold on it (or the airbrushed phase blade) but I might just need to tweak the colors a bit and/or practice more.

>>97492799
>I am computationally retarded
No, you're just lazy and don't want to put in effort to LEARN anything.

>>97493105
Rule 63 Lost Vikings/10
I think they're fun and look good

>>97494054
Don't try anything this guy suggests, I did it and it made mustard gas

>>97495291
Obviously we know it's not cum. Learn what a joke is, Captain Autism

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What do I do with this?

>>97496519
It looks more like lightning bolts than kintsugi, too jagged and too many incomplete lines

>>97496589
I had a feeling that was going to be a problem, I just finished a NL jump lord for a friend so I've got lightning on the brain. Actually using references like a real artist should fix that for my next test.

>>97495468
Try painting gold over chocolate brown, scale 75 looks the shiniest with the best shadows.

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>>97494862
first of all edge highlighting is a meme that has very little to do with realism. second if the profile looked like this it could reflect on opposite sides.

>>97496712
why is your cyclops-jak contemplating eating me?

Anyone know where I can get the stahly color swatches without paying?

>>97496583
It's just Dark Tone under a different name.

>>97496530
i don't generally see tutorials on illegal activities and I remember my brother downloading a porn virus on the old family pc lol

>>97496905
Those aren't real.

>>97496712
It should be painted to show what you want them to see not what they would see if the object were really there. It just looks better that way than painting it as realism. That's why shadows should be darker and highlights lighter than in reality because it's a miniature.

>>97494886
i have issues sometime, specifically with heads. the thing to remember is how it works. it dissolves the plastic and then dries and reforms. so you need to apply some force to it to make the glue permeate deeper. if you just apply the glue on the parts and place them on top of each other, it's a very thin layer of melded plastic.

>>97497014
but how can you simultaneously argue that you should paint however you want it to look instead of basing it on realism and also that your drew the stripe on the wrong side from where you think it would realistically go?

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Enjoying this kit. Lots of customization options. I want the leader to have the bird, but I don't know where to beat put it so its not blocking things or just looking weird compositionally.

>>97496712
The sun is not a small circle that is 6 inches above people.

>>97497134
what kit is this?

>>97497332
clearly it's some GW space elves and likely their newest box.

>>97497134
It looks good right there.
I didn't really like assembling the corsairs. I thought the sprue was badly laid out even if the end result is cool.

>>97497332
i think it's teh corsair kill team

>>97484689
So kolinsky brush is the best for miniature painting but what about other natural hair brush like horse or squirrel or hog?

>>97497503
hog is far too coarse, squirrel hair probably works good, can't comment on horse hair
go to your local art store and feel them in person

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I finished my custom steam tank.

>>97497593
very sexy, anon

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Spent all day doing my admech. I'm trying to do a moody OSL thing with my jetpacks where the only light source is the jetpack itself and the flamers/visors. I have a game tomorrow, and there's no way I'll be done in time, but other than 2 chickenwalkers, everything at least will have paint on it. I'm waiting on bits to print, and then I can move on to those as well.

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>>97497631
Here's a closeup of one

These stormfiends are kicking my ass. If I had 1 recommendation it would be don't zenithal. I would have benefitted more from the auto-black parts separation than I am from the preshading.

>>97493997

To follow up on this, is there a better tool for cleaning up small recesses of the model than an etching tool/toothpick or a toothbrush? I feel like the latter has made the resin parts snap way too many times, I've most likely also used excessive force.

>>97497936
An old beat up stiff brush you dont care about anymore might do it

>>97497936
> is there a better tool for cleaning up small recesses of the model than an etching tool/toothpick or a toothbrush
Interdental brush, paint brush?

>>97497948
>>97497949

I'll try that too, already looked up an ultrasonic cleaner, seems like they are pretty cheap and don't take much space. Does anyone here have experience with using such machines?

>>97497957
yeah, it's pretty good for stripping

>>97497963

I could also use it to wash my son's eyeglasses... Any other usecases?

>>97497957
they are good devices, but they can't work miracles, and using them with uncured resin will fuck them up fast. If you plan to fill it with isopropyl, make sure it has a good lid. Aerosolized isopropyl is extremely flammable.

>>97497968
good for polishing coins, jewelry, and silverware as well

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>>97497134
the one on the left will never stop reminding me of pic related

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>>97491854
>three tickets to Turkey please

In the case of mystery magnets, what is a good benchmark for finding out their grade/strength?

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>>97497972

Not asking for miracles, just to strip the paint from the recesses.

>>97498012
tape one to a kitchen scale, tape another so you can hold it put them together and pull, the maximum reading should be the pulling force, go to a website and check shape size and grade against what you got for magnet to magnet attraction
if they are very small it gets trickier, you may need to use your weed scale

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hopefully these will last me for the rest of the year
they never do but there is always a first time for everything

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Thoughts on the auspex? Anything I could do to make it look better?

>>97498083
are you making a papercraft titan this year?

>>97498063
I'll look into getting a scale and do that, cheers.

>>97498083
Why?

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squigger with a hard r

>>97498083
Just saying, you should keep superglue in the fridge/cold, if you want it to last.
It might also be a lot cheaper (and definitely better) to get a bottle of something like Starbond instead.

>>97498084
put gloss clear over the screen part

>>97498152
those tubes are sealed, they will last way more than this anon needs to

>>97498182
Shit, I forgot to add once opened. Once opened, keep the superglue in the fridge.

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Decided to DIY a Dire Avengers update using the current Guardians as a base, still some cleanup and gap filling left to do but overall I'm happy with how his guy turned out.

>>97497332
Corsair kill team
>>97497403
Yeah. Was annoying hunting for random pieces but half way through it wasn't as bad. Like the amount of bits you get though.

>>97498201
NTA but do you need to take it out in advance to use it? If you keep it in the fridge.

>>97498228
Naw, just take it out, glue whatever you need, and put it back in.

>>97498213
Damn anon that looks really good. Which parts are from the Guardian?

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One more gobbo girl done

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>>97498240
Thanks, only the main body and the arms are from the Guardian kit. I cut the shoulder pads off of the Guardian torso and replaced them with the DA ones to match the backpack, and I chopped the barrel off the catapult and replaced with with the front end of a DA one along with sticking the scope on the back there. Getting the DA backpack part to fit with the Guardian torso took a lot of cutting and filing, as you can see he looks pretty comical from the side at the moment. My current plan is to assemble the next four and then sort out all the gap filling all at once.

I've got fuckall experience using greenstuff so it's going to be an adventure sorting these guys out, but luckily the gaps are pretty well hidden when viewed from the kind of angle you'll be seeing them from on the table.

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dam those ravner models are chunky ! (marine for scale)

>>97498274
Oh yeah I see it now. Shouldn't be too hard to fill that in with Greenstuff. You're not shaping anything special with it, just filling a gap.

>>97498303
well the KT raveners are a character unit so they get to be larger than normal.

>>97498303
Nice marine anon. Did you use oils.

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>>97496812
Do you reckon it would improve this lemon?

>>97498083
From the thumbnail I thought this was like 100 boxes of corvus infinity stuff.
superglue makes more sense though.

>>97498152
overpriced and hobby branded makeup fridge? I think we have a new business opportunity. There could even be a spot for a wet palette.

>>97498252
On her way to bring me some milk, I'm sure.

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>>97499011
ye used oil, pretty much followed the Richard Grey tutorial for imperial fists

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1CL84oXGyTc

normally I do not shill youtubers but that dude is alright, just paints no facecam/drama content

>>97499078
and with a beer on hand

I'm pretty new to painting, and I was wondering if GW ever put out a list of their recommendations on basic base -> shade -> layer recipes for Citadel paints. How do I know which brown is cool or which one is warm, etc? How trusty are the colors they have on their storefront? Or is this is just kind of something you figure out by yourself?

>>97499158
The colors they have on the swatches online are terrible and not even remotely close to what they are like in real life.
Go to the 'Eavy Archive website for the real recipes and a more accurate instructions.

>>97499124
>How do I know which brown is cool or which one is warm
with your eyes in a store
if you are buying online i don't know why you would buy gw paints, they are smaller, pricier and not better than other brands
in any case in the op mega there's a chart with every color from several brands in actual photos

>>97499168
meant for >>97499158

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>>97499158
This is the basic gist.
Purple and Green can be either one depending on how much blue is in it. I’ve seen some people say yellow can be a cool tone but I don’t believe them.
Brown is a desaturated orange so it’s defacto warm.
Black, White, and Grey are technically neutral but you can make them warm or cold by mixing in other colors. Like how Ivory is a warm white and it’s a very light brown.

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>paying real life money for 12ml of blood effect paint when you literally have a over a gallon inside your body
Do people actually?

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>>97499158
>I was wondering if GW ever put out a list of their recommendations on basic base -> shade -> layer recipes for Citadel paints
Yes.

>How do I know which brown is cool or which one is warm, etc?
Does it lean red or blue?

>How trusty are the colors they have on their storefront?
At best very approximate, because even a photo of the paint will be very sensitive to the exact light it was photograph under (and then when you actually use the paint the light you're looking at it under) and how well colour calibrated your screen is (and since you're asking your screen isn't calibrated at all). Also, your screen is a light source and the paint isn't, that too has an impact. A printed colour guide will also only be a general approximation since the printer ink/toner won't work quite like the pigment in the paint. All said and done the only truly reliable and accurate representation of a paint is a painted paint chip.
If you can find a copy of it Stahly's paint guide is probably about as good as it's can get over the internet. Still, remember the bits about screen calibration and light source and all that. If you have some of the paints on there to compare things it can help. (Also, if you can visit a physical store to look at the paints, keep in mind that many change a bit as they dry, and the bottles often aren't perfectly clear either.)

>Or is this is just kind of something you figure out by yourself?
Well, painting's more art than science in the end...

>>97499168
Look Buddy you can create almost every color by mixing red, blue, yellow,White and Black, If you are a beginner and/or a poorfag i would acctually recommend this, so you get a feeling die mixing color, so you dont end up buying 50 shades of purple.

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>>97499540
>If you are a beginner and/or a poorfag i would acctually recommend this

>>97499540
Literally the worst advice ever.

>>97499540
Ideally craft paints, amirite?

>>97499566
Dear heavens no. You make your own oil paints, using oil from flax you've grown yourself, and pigments from plants/animal bits/Minerals you gathered and refined on your own. Then it's time to walk to Siberia to shave some weasels...

>>97499593
>shaved weasles
>with oil paints
come on now. For the oil paints we use hog bristle brushes.

>>97499593
>not breeding your own weasels
ngmi

>>97499566
If you're going to use superior materials like that then your refined taste ought to be restricted to Magenta, Cyan, Yellow, White and Black.

>>97499448
Blood has terrible coverage and dries terribly. Total rip off.

>>97499612
Just shave your cat.